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How To Adjust Ejector Timing On 682 Beretta?

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by eightbore, Feb 22, 2010.

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  1. eightbore

    eightbore Well-Known Member

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    I have a 682 Beretta with two sets of barrels. The bottom barrel on one set ejects too early, the bottom barrel on the other set ejects too late. How is the adjustment done?
     
  2. Beretta687EELL

    Beretta687EELL Well-Known Member

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    Timing is adjusted by filing the tip of the beak on the ejector. You can only go one way. Bill Malcolm
     
  3. KENENT1

    KENENT1 Active Member

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    "is their any easy way to make a Beretta with ejectors to extractors?"


    no, the best thing to do is shorten the ejector springs so they don't fire so hard, it is also easier on the ejectors.(cut a couple of coils off the spring)

    I usually make them just long enough to hold the ejector all the way up with just a bit of compression.



    tony
     
  4. Leo

    Leo Well-Known Member

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    If you file the tips off the spring loaded pieces in the fore arm, they become extractors only. Beware, returning them to ejectors becomes very difficult (ie:costly) once you grind the metal away.
     
  5. eightbore

    eightbore Well-Known Member

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    Mr. 687EELL, I assume that filing the flat part of the end of the ejector makes them fire later. Am I correct? How do Beretta gunsmiths make them fire earlier? I have one set of barrels that fire the lower ejector only when the gun is opened very harshly. Thanks.
     
  6. KENENT1

    KENENT1 Active Member

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    eightbore, take the wood off the forend iron and put the iron on the gun and dry fire on an empty hull and you will see exactly how they work, and how much you need to take off, or to add on (weld up).




    tony
     
  7. Beretta687EELL

    Beretta687EELL Well-Known Member

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    By filing the beak the ejector will just slip over the tips in the fore end iron and extract as opposed to popping over the iron and ejecting. As Tony suggested above take the wood off the fore end iron and you will see how the system works.

    I cut my ejector springs flush with the barrel. If I ejected the hull, it would pop over my shoulder by a couple of feet. You can shorten them a little more if that is still too much. Springs are way cheaper than new ejectors. Bill Malcolm
     
  8. Anchorsteam

    Anchorsteam TS Member

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    ...send it to Accokeek, MD???
     
  9. Anchorsteam

    Anchorsteam TS Member

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    ...send it to Accokeek, MD???
     
  10. AveragEd

    AveragEd Well-Known Member

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    When I was there for a plant tour 18 months ago, I saw where no one could enter the plant with a firearm.

    Ed
     
  11. KENENT1

    KENENT1 Active Member

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    tigman46, the onyx is the same as a 680 series......with shorter springs mine also still shoots them out pretty good but they are easier to stop with your thumb, then if you have a hull you don't want to keep mine will still clear the gun.

    I believe it is easier on the ejectors to shorten the springs, they don't hammer as hard, and don't break as often.


    tony
     
  12. Beretta687EELL

    Beretta687EELL Well-Known Member

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    Cole's for parts (click on the link). They have very nice schematics on their web page. 686 and 682 are the same internally. The springs also put a lot of pressure on the ejectors. The ejectors tend to break at the 90 degree angle. Bill Malcolm
     
  13. KENENT1

    KENENT1 Active Member

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    actually, Brownells is stocking all Beretta repair parts now.


    tony
     
  14. KENENT1

    KENENT1 Active Member

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    I don't think you are going to need any parts, I usually cut the ejector springs so they are just long enough to hold the ejectors open.

    if you cut the springs too short (which I don't think will happen)you would order the ejector spring.



    tony
     
  15. eightbore

    eightbore Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the great replies. Out of 18 replies, 16 participated in hijacking my thread, 1 told me to take the gun apart and try to figure out how it works. 1 actually suggested how my problem is addressed, but with no details.
     
  16. Erik W

    Erik W Member

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    Word must have gotten out that you are a skeet shooter.
     
  17. ken1okie

    ken1okie Active Member

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    I have done this recently on two guns.
    There is merit to taking the forearm iron out of the wood and attaching to the barrels so you can actually see how the ejector operates.
    For the barrel that releases too soon, you will have to reconture the ejector end to delay the break over point where the ejector trigger actuates. You can determine this buy firing the barrel and watching where the ejector trigger breaks over. Remove the ejector and stone the area increasing the length or profile in the area where break over point occurs. This will delay the break over point. At this point you will become a master at removing the ejectors. At least in my case it takes several attempts to get the correct timing. As you might guess the ejector that is realeasing to late will need to be stoned enough to change the profile to release sooner.

    It's not as complicated as it sounds.Just take your time and you will have the ejectors timed perfectly before you know it.

    Ken
     
  18. KENENT1

    KENENT1 Active Member

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    eightbore.......sorry your so sensitive, lol.......when I told you to take the wood off and cycle the gun, you would have seen exactly how to re time the ejectors, kind of like "give a man a fish and feed him for a day, teach him how to fish, feed him for a life time."

    as what to say about the hijacked thread......I'm speechless!!


    hope this helps.




    tony
     
  19. Pull Bang

    Pull Bang Member

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    I have two Berettas; 686 Silver Pigeon and 682 Gold E Combo. I replaced the ejector springs with a weaker one.

    Go to a gun smith a purchase springs to the following dimensions.

    Coil OD: .160" (outside diameter)

    Wire diameter: .021"

    Overall length: 2.500"

    I put these springs in my Berettas and it work great. Now, the shell just pops up it does not eject.

    Frank
     
  20. eightbore

    eightbore Well-Known Member

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    Ken1okie, thanks for the information. I did watch the action several times. I don't see how to profile the ejector end to make it stay on the other surface any longer without actually adding metal or bending the end of the ejector. Can you give me a little more information? If I thought I could bend the tip without breaking it, I would do that. Should I add metal or heat and bend the tip?
     
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