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Hornady 366 rebuild

Discussion in 'Uncategorized Threads' started by JLW, Jul 26, 2006.

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  1. JLW

    JLW TS Member

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    Since these are made w/o bushings and I am sure the aluminum will wear over time an use creating egg shaped holes, is anyone rebuilding these?

    Anyone know where the majority of the wear is?-Jerald
     
  2. warbux

    warbux TS Member

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    Mine is a 1976,the only thing that has wore on mine is the charge bar and powder shut off plate other than that still nice and tight. Joel
     
  3. JoeS

    JoeS TS Member

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    I seriously doubt you could ever wear one out. I bought mine around 1990 and couldn't tell you how many thousands of rounds I've put through it. It is still like new. The only thing that ever broke was the shell indexing spring which is a large coil spring on the bottom of the loader under the shell plate. This was an inexpensive part from Hornaday. Other that that it's a good idea to keep a couple of plastic wad fingers around which will wear out on any loader. I do oil all the linkages and especially the vertical steel bars on each end of the loader where the bottom assembly lifts the shell plate up and down. This may seem rediculous but I do this each time I use it. I believe in taking care of it like one of my guns.....it makes 'em last. I've modified mine so I can remove a shell from the primer, powder and shot stations if I need to without backing them out......big convenience! I also figured out a way to add a counter which is a great feature. If yours doesn't have it the best thing you can buy is the spring loaded primer seater.....once you get it adjusted you can change hulls without ever adjusting again......slick invention. Joe
     
  4. bigbore613

    bigbore613 Active Member

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    I had the bottom platten wear out and hornady gave me one,that was 15 years ago.I have since gone to P.W. I have some extra parts if anyone is interested.
    I also still have the worn piece.
    Jeff
     
  5. TC

    TC TS Member

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    Jeff, would be interested, email me, your email didn't work. Tony
     
  6. tom berry

    tom berry Active Member

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    Location:
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    The only part that would be subject to the kind of stress that you are thinking about is the charge bar. That part has a bearing that should protect it.

    Tom
     
  7. 333t

    333t Member

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    I bought several Pacific 366's and 350's and a 360 a while back, overhauling them as a sort of hobby. While some of these had obviously seen a lot of use, I didn't run across any instances of meaningful wear in any of the bearing surfaces. The main shaft that passes through the hefty cast aluminum bottom frame is very robust and these presses operate without a whole lot of effort. I don't think enough pressure is generated to cause any wear or ever distort the holes in the casting.

    The main problems I found were rust and dirt on the steel parts which usually cleaned up just fine with a wire wheel. The 366 (auto advance version) with the spring loaded wad seating station with pressure gauge is a superb machine. The latest model by Hornady has done away with the reversible handle and the spring loaded feature in the wad seating station.

    Phil
     
  8. pyrdek

    pyrdek Well-Known Member

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    I bought a Pacific 366 shortly after seeing one at an NRA convention in 1976. I still have it and, on ocassion, still use it. The first shells I loaded on it ended up cracking the casting where the dies screw in. It was a lengthwise crack from front to back. I contacted Hornady/Pacific and they sent a replacement casting and asked me to return the original. This I did and the follow up seemed to indicate that the casting had a void in the metal caused by something, perhaps a failure to fill, thermal contraction or maybe an impurity in the casting.

    At any rate, 30 years later the replacement casting and the rest of the press, other than the spring which moves the wad holding fingers, a few sets of wad fingers and the fingers of the primer drop tube (plastic), are as they were 30 years ago (unless replaced by updates like the auto indexer added a few years after purchase).

    I am currently using a Apex 3.1 (since discontinued) for most of my loading only because of the resizer being a part of the normal rotation and the automatic powder or shot cut off when no shell is in that station.

    I also have a Lyman Easy (single stage) that has not seen service since 1976.

    All things considered, HORNADY/PACIFIC MAKES ONE HECK (G rated language) OF A GOOD MACHINE.
     
  9. Jeff P

    Jeff P Well-Known Member

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    I've not had a problem in the 25+ years I've operated one....

    That said, the spring that does the auto advance does wear out over time, and so does the spring that does the wad guide swing in/out.

    I do have a bit of rust on mine...need to fix that. I've done most everything to one of these EXCEPT disconnect and remove the main shaft. Can someone tell me an easy way to get that out?

    jeff P
     
  10. rollnblock

    rollnblock Member

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    My 366 that is over 30 years old is wearing on the charge bar. thats the only thing that is wrong with it. seen several thousand rounds through it. as in im on my 32nd pound of powder this year. the bar just started wearing this year. looking at a new pw to replace it cause i can get a ats system for it and quit the pulling.
     
  11. 333t

    333t Member

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    Jeff P:

    The linkage to the main shaft is pressed in. You would probably ruin it getting it apart. But there is really no reason to take it out as it can be cleaned in place without much trouble once the top end and lower platen are removed.

    Phil
     
  12. JLW

    JLW TS Member

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    Jeff P- I disassembled both of the ones I recently bought and there was a 1/4" roll pin in each end of the pivot shaft holding the eccentric arm (linkage) in place. The eccentric arms are cross drilled thru' and along the centerline of the shaft.

    You access the roll pin thru' the 5/16ths tapped screw holes that hold the arm in. If you drive it inward, you will drive it into a blind hole in the pivot shaft but that is the only way I know to remove it from the arm.

    Then remove the arm and carefully, with a 1/4" drill "SLOWLY" drill the roll pino out taking care to hold the drill straight and avoid chewing up the threads in the outside hole. Drill too fast and you will harden the pin so drill it slowly to avoid heating the pin. Then buy two pull pins from a bolt store like MidState bolt.

    Pull pins are tapped on the inside from the end and allow you to thread a bolt into them to pull them out of a blind hole.

    If you have a friend with a lathe and headstock that will accept the diameter of the pivot shaft, the whole (hole) removal job will be much easier.

    I took my pivot shafts out to clean the rust off the ends of the shaft and make a nicer looking job of the cleanup. Then I made soft pull pins from 1/4" cold rolled stock.-J
     
  13. pj 999

    pj 999 TS Member

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    Had my 366 updated at last years Grand American. New shot/powder tubes with baffles, primer feed tube, primer drop assembly, new plate and other misc. parts. Hornady only charged me around $40 for parts and they went thru the loader, cleaned it, oiled it, did everthing. There's a company that stands behind their product. Loaders 25 plus years old.
     
  14. pj 999

    pj 999 TS Member

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    Had my 366 updated at last years Grand American. New shot/powder tubes with baffles, primer feed tube, primer drop assembly, new plate and other misc. parts. Hornady only charged me around $40 for parts and they went thru the loader, cleaned it, oiled it, did everthing. There's a company that stands behind their product. Loaders 25 plus years old.
     
  15. JLW

    JLW TS Member

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    I called Hornady yesterday and asked about removing the roll pin from the eccentric linkage. They said the only thing you can do is drive it "in". I suspect you could do this once only as the hole will be filled and driving a second in will not work. Best to drill it out and add a pull dowel as I mentioned in the earlier post.

    To clarify; drill slowly means low RPM. The pin is most likely oil hardening steel, maybe water hardening but heating it with a high RPM will harden it.-Jerald
     
  16. tgun90

    tgun90 TS Member

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    Has anyone ever installed grease fittings in the lube holes on the lower shaft.
     
  17. JLW

    JLW TS Member

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    TGUN90-Probably no need for that.

    When I disassembled mine, one that had a lot of use had the pawl worn to a needle point, but there was still the original red paint in the holes of the pivot shaft. When measured with a mic there was no discernable difference in the shaft diameter at the bearing points.-Jerald
     
  18. teleskier

    teleskier Member

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    I know this is an old thread but I have to say the one I have now was made in the early 50's. I updated it to include shot/powder shut off, auto advance but have not done the swing out wad guide as I like the stationary one better. These units are bullet proof. Wish I had never sold my first one.
     
  19. dennis (nj)

    dennis (nj) Guest

    I see nobody mentioned the roller bearing going bad on any of theirs . The cam bearing part #380100 that is mounted on the charge bar . Mine went bad years ago and it gave a lot of light loads until I found out that it was bad . Return spring also ,other than that , not much else . Love my 366 .
     
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