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hornady 366 help and questions

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by riss6270, Sep 8, 2010.

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  1. riss6270

    riss6270 TS Member

    Joined:
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    Ended up buying a used Hornady 366 loader. i need some help and have some questions.

    First,

    When load one shell at a time it works fine. When it is full it will not advance. It seems as if the piece in the back will not catch to rotate the base plate. I replaced with a new one and still will not advance.

    Two,
    Is there a way to change bushings with the bottles full of shot and powder?

    Three,
    Where can i get spare parts other than from hornady?

    Four,
    Is there a way to tell what year this was made in from the serial number? It says Hornady 366 and right under it says pacific366.

    Fifth,
    Sometimes when i am on the 7th station it sometimes leaves a nippele on the top ring of the shell.

    Other than these little issues i love it. Any help advice or pictures would be great.
     
  2. brent375hh

    brent375hh TS Member

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2009
    Messages:
    292
    Does the pawl drop into a slot and the plate won't advance, or is it not dropping into a slot? If the former, you could try a differnt spring or perhaps back off the spring tension. If the plate wont index when full, check for shot stuck around the where the rims ride. Also make sure your primers are well seated. The spring loaded primer seater is worth the money IMO.

    No, you can't change bushings with them full. You can lay it on it's side 1/3 full and do it, but it is a pain.

    Hornady has great customer service, why avoid them? Bushings and wad guides can be bought many places, but for the rest of it, I would call Hornady.

    Don't know.

    Sounds like your crimp needs to be deeper to fix that "nipple".
     
  3. DecalDude

    DecalDude Active Member

    Joined:
    May 11, 2009
    Messages:
    1,249
    Location:
    Jamestown New York Area
    Ok I can relate I just got an OLD Pacific 366 same machine Hornady just bought them out years back. The 1 I got had a quarter inch of dust on it but a bottle of 409 and a tooth brush it cleaned up nice. I lil shot of lube here and there.
    Remove the shell plate and check for shot then replace, remove the side ring plates and check them for shot. DONT crank the shell plate down too much it should move fairly easy.

    Second post is correct its not east to change bushings with full tubes. If your working on a load Dont fill tubes.

    Indexer doesnt work too well if you crank the spring, loosen it up. Start a batch of empty dummy hulls threw, use dead primers for this NO POWDER NO SHOT.

    Go threw each station it will drop a dead primer then move on with no problems or mess. by doing this you can check primer seat (make sure they are deep enough to let hulls move, watch to make sure the powder shot bar is moveing,and wad drop is lineing up and can see exactly how much tension you need to make things move.

    Once you have that all adjusted you can put some powder and shot in and give it a go then you wont have made a mess or wasted primers or made too many bloopers to recut open.

    I messed with mine for an hour or so checking the things like I told you
    and loaded 2 boxes of shells I used a 441 powder bushing that dropped 17.8 grains of promo very nice pleasant load that handled things well to the 25yrd line where I stopped will worry about further back when needed.


    Jerry Lewis
     
  4. pyrdek

    pyrdek Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Messages:
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    There were at least two different versions of the Auto Advance that Hornady used. The first was not the most reliable for me and they changed over to a new and improved version. One very nice thing Hornday has always seemed to do is make a newer version of something on the 366 fit and it would work when retrofitted to the older versions of the press.

    My press is actually labeled by Pacific on the casting. I got it in 1976. I can't recall exactly what the difference was in the auto advance but I installed the updated version myself and it worked very well. I do seem to recall there was some adjusting I had to experiment with but once it was set, the advance has been working for years.

    I did have to replace a gas cylinder once but I do not recall if it was on my 366 or the Hornady Apex 3.0 converted to 3.1.

    When I get home I will take a look and see if I can find the older advance so I can describe or maybe take a picture so you can see if you have the older or newer since you say Pacific is on your press.

    One thing to check is that the nut that holds the pawl to the advance mechanism is secure. If it gets loose, the advance may not work. I do this when I want to use the press as a manual advance when setting up a station. Also be sure to lubricate but not OVER lubricate the assorted hinges and sliding surfaces.
     
  5. riss6270

    riss6270 TS Member

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    how much does it cost to have hornady refurbish it if you send it back to them?
     
  6. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    Just don't give up on it. It will take some adjusting and a small learning curve. Once you get adjusted right and get some shells loaded you will love the machine. Learning any new loader can be a love/hate relationship until its all adjusted to run smoothly. I was in your shoes with my Pacific at one point too. I wouldn't trade that machine for anything now. Ok, maye a Spolar but hey thats not gonna happen now is it? LOL--------Matt
     
  7. riss6270

    riss6270 TS Member

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    i did get it to reload gunclubs like new. There are a few things i dislike about it but im going to try and make something to fix that. I do like it more than my mec 650. I dont like that there powder bushing chart isnt very indepth. It just says that a 453 bushing is 17g of red dot. That could be 17g or 17.9g but thats where the scale comes into play.
     
  8. Duck

    Duck Member

    Joined:
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    Use the search feature above, some very good info was available in the past?.
     
  9. Jeff P

    Jeff P Well-Known Member

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    1. could be that the plate is too tight, or bent. that happens if the primer drop is set too low and it hits the plate. Once its full of shells, its too tight to go, or the fact that its bent keeps it from moving. Both are pretty easy and cheap fixes.

    2. You 'can' change the bushings with the bottles full...just lift the bottle unit off, and HOLD YOUR HAND OVER THE SHOT BOTTLE AS YOU TIP IT. found that out the hard way. once its resting on the lid, change away....
     
  10. riss6270

    riss6270 TS Member

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    Ive checked the primer seat and its fine. The plate is loose but it has a good bit of ware. I an going to make a stainless plate i do believe. Has anyone came up with a way to catch the primers in a bigger container other than the one provided? I can only hold about 100 in there.
     
  11. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    riss6270---For what its worth, their powder bushing chart like any others is a starting point. Every jug of powder even if it has the same batch number can weigh different and require a bushing change. I load mostly Green Dot. My bushings may vary between 2 to 3 different bushings at times to load the same load. I shoot for 19 grains. When i say shoot, it may be 19.3 or it may be 18.8. You will seldom get it on the money every batch of powder. Amazingly this 8lb Green Dot i'm on now is dropping right on 19gr consistently with my 456 bushing which their chart says is supposed to be 19gr. It won't happen all the time.----Matt
     
  12. lytnin1

    lytnin1 Member

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    Location:
    Forest Hill New South Wales, Australia
    I had an early Pacific 366 and if I remember correctly [ very difficult with old age] they had a puller type pall, that used to pull the plate around. The newer Hornady arrangement is a pusher type and is interchangeable.
     
  13. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    lytnin1---You are correct on the Pacific index type. The paw reaches around and grabs the plate and pulls it along. Pretty simple yet pretty darn effective. Its very easy to adjust as well. I'm not familiar with the new style.---Matt
     
  14. Mapper

    Mapper Member

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    Location:
    SW Michigan
    Sounds like about everything has been covered, except the bushings. I make mine out of 1" aluminum round bar stock. The shot bushings are 1" in diameter and 1" long. Powder is .870 diameter and 1" long. Pacific/Hornady bushing numbers are the ID. If you have access to a lathe, it's a snap.
     
  15. Jeff P

    Jeff P Well-Known Member

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    Riss....

    for the primers, take an empty 12 guage box and cut it off to just the height of the primer tray opening. Then tape the bottom shut and stick it in the spot where the little tray used to go.

    They fit perfectly, and they are twice as deep as the little drawer - in other words, the 12 guage box will stick out the front of the loader. But it will now hold 300 or 400 primers.

    The only real trick is to cut the box off at the right height - it HAS to be a friction fit in the opening, or it will vibrate out as you load. You might have to do a couple to get one right.
     
  16. W.R.Buchanan

    W.R.Buchanan Member

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    Riss: Just buy a new shell plate from Hornaday. That outfit is hard to beat on customer service. Half the stuff I have gotten from them has been free. I think I spent $25 on new parts for my 366. Shell plate, primer drop nipple, and a few screws.

    The shell plate needs to be adjusted down to where it rotates freely but the detent ball underneath still will stop, and index the plate.

    The eccentric on the follower bearing on the advance mechinism is then adjusted until the advance pawl stops rotating the shell plate when it is IN one of the detents. That way the plate is timed so it lines up with all of the stations. The detent ball is what indexes the plate under the stations. All the advance pawl does is moves the plate from one station to another.

    If you play with the machine a bunch you will see how easy it is to set up, and adjust. Everything makes perfect sense once you play with it for a week or so.

    When I got mine from a friend it had sat for 20 years in a garage. It took me about 4 hours to clean and relube,and readjust everything. I couldn't get the primers to drop consistantly because the shell plate was deformed at the primer holes and warped. It is a inexpensive part. I just replaced it and the little plastic nipple that drops the primers. It now works perfectly.

    The only other thing you will have to mess with is the crimp. That's just trial and error.

    You can go to the Hornaday Website and down load the instruction manual for the machine. I would also download the manual for the DL266 single stage press as it has a better discourse on setting up the dies than the DL366 manual has. Both machines use the same dies.

    There are guys here who have been using these machines for 30-40 years so they must work pretty well. I know mine does and as soon as I decide on a 28 or .410 Skeet gun I'll be looking for another used one to setup for that gauge too. The DL366 loader is just too easy to refurbish. I paid $150 for mine. Look it's almost new! My DL266 was new and I paid $50 for it right here a TS.com. Randy

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. BunkerGuy

    BunkerGuy TS Member

    Joined:
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    Maybe this might be helpful, as well.

    http://www.shootingbunker.com/366ArticlePart_I.html

    - - Bill
     
  18. W.R.Buchanan

    W.R.Buchanan Member

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    bunker guy: good article It helped me a bunch with my machines set up and operation.

    Randy
     
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