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Gunsmithing help for Browning BLR bolt

Discussion in 'Uncategorized Threads' started by gnprts, Nov 8, 2007.

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  1. gnprts

    gnprts Member

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    I have my Browning BLR 3006 back together after cleaning it and am having trouble getting the bolt timed with the lever. I have moved the rack that turns the small gear a few teeth but have not hit the correct alignment..... Thanks
     
  2. GunDr

    GunDr Well-Known Member

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    Yea. Yea, have fun!!!

    I've done a few trigger jobs on the BLR's and ALWAYS try NOT to remove the pin from the lever gear, along the right side of the receiver, but sometimes it slips out.

    It's all trial and error.....at first. Take a scripe and mark the lever gear in the first position that you have installed it, also mark the round cocking gear. These will be your index marks. They will help determine whether you'll need to advance or degrease the timing. Now, with a lot of patience, install the lever and look at where everything stops. It's highly likely the bolt will be "almost" all the way closed, but the lever has stopped short.

    By using the scribed mark you place on the gear earlier, you know can move the lever gear one tooth at a time on the cocking gear's smaller round gear. After each attempt, you'll need the replace the lever and try it.

    Here's a little "helper"....each time you need to remove the lever to retime, do not push the bushing all the way out. Move it just enough to remove the lever.

    I did one last week, it can be a PITA, if you just hap-hazardly try to reassemble.

    Doug Braker
     
  3. GunDr

    GunDr Well-Known Member

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    Let me add....placing the gun in a vise, upside down, gives you more control with moving "tooth to tooth".

    Doug
     
  4. gnprts

    gnprts Member

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    Thank You GunDr for the help. Not knowing what a bear it is to get it back in time I took it apart without marking the gears. When I get it to look right the lever will not close. How much movement can you expect by pushing forward on the back of the bolt with a thumb? I am thankful that I have a vise ... that third hand sure comes in handy.

    Wayne
     
  5. gnprts

    gnprts Member

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    GunDr... I moved the gear and counted the teeth and find that two clicks (teeth) the bolt closes but the lever does not quite close, but with a little pressure the trigger will contact the sear and release the hammer. Three clicks lets the bolt close but lets the bolt body move forward when pushed near the firing pin is this normal? ........ Thanks
     
  6. GunDr

    GunDr Well-Known Member

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    OK, you're know getting close. You'll notice that the lever gear has a spring loaded plunger on the backside of it.(buttstock end). This plunger, when the gun is fully closed, will tuck itself under the pivot screw that holds the hammer in place.

    At the tooth position you have right now, jump one tooth at a time. Do this for 4 teeth each direction.

    The lever MUST lock with the bolt fully forward. Part of what holds the bolt forward...besides the gears, is also the end of the lever. There's a slot in the bolt that the end of the lever will ride in, but only if you're gear set up is just right.

    Doug
     
  7. halfmile

    halfmile Well-Known Member

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    NOw I know why I never bought one.

    HM
     
  8. gnprts

    gnprts Member

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    Hey Gun Dr ... Whew! that did it. I got it back in time, thanks to you. I discovered that a #9 drill bit shank end comes in handy to align the lever when pushing the bushing through the lever...... Never again! Thank You ... Wayne
     
  9. GunDr

    GunDr Well-Known Member

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    HM,

    When things are assembled properly, the action is very silky smooth.


    Wayne,

    One more thing...

    With the gun in the vise and when removing the lever, only push the pivot pinout enough to remove the lever. This will maintain the tooth setting. This helps when the need to move only one tooth. If you're pushing the pin all the way out each time, it's possible for the lever gear to jump a tooth or two, and get you out of position.

    Each time you move the gear tooth, the bolt needs to be about half open. With the lever removed and the lever gear and pivot pin in place, you can grab the lever gear and hold it while you push the bolt forward or back on tooth. Get your reading glasses on for this!!!! This is why I suggested marking the gears with a scribe. It keeps you informed of which direction you're going.

    Good Luck!!!

    Doug
     
  10. GunDr

    GunDr Well-Known Member

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    Good to hear.

    When re-installing the lever, it IS spring loaded, so you need to "pull" on the lever a little to get the pin to come through the lever, with no resistance.

    Doug
     
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