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Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by reddottm1, Sep 28, 2012.

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  1. reddottm1

    reddottm1 Member

    Jan 23, 2007
    wHERE is a gunsmith that can solder a rib back on a browning broadway?
  2. Cazadore

    Cazadore Member

    Aug 5, 2009
    Art's Gun Shop outside ST Louis MO will bring it back to original. Can be a bit slow so tell them if it's a shooter or collector.

    Phillip's Gunsmithing also does an outstanding job but can't rust blue the barrels.

    Depends if you want it as a shooter or as original.

    SPACE GUN Member

    Sep 7, 2007
    Galena ohio
    if the blueing is in shape Phillip has been know to soulder them without hurting the blueing. I would give him a call first.
  4. MDMike

    MDMike Well-Known Member

    Nov 30, 2011
    From what I've seen, Art's.....
  5. kiv-c

    kiv-c Member

    Nov 30, 2009
    I resoldered the rib on my Winchester 101 using a method outlined previously here by Toolmaker. Seemes to be holding fine and never disturbed the blueing at all.

    "I have resoldered many, many ribs that came loose, most of them Winchester 101's and maybe 4 Perazzi MX-8's It's quite easy and take about 15 minutes. Get a 1/2" wide strip of 320 emery cloth and put it under the rib area where the solder broke loose. Clean that area on the barrel lightly. Blow out any debris, now take a toothpick any apply solder flux on top the barrel where you just cleaned. Take a strip of lead solder on a flat surface and hit it with a hammer a few times to flatten it out to about .010 thick. Now Cut the flattened solder with scissors into 3/8" pieces and stick them every inch apart between the top of barrel under rib. Clamp lightly the barrel and rib with 2 C clamps making sure you have packing between the clamping surfaces so you don't mar the finish. You only need a few pounds of clamping force to do this. Now fire up your map/propane torch and start moving the flame in the area where the rib and barrel meet and keep the flame moving in the working area, switching from one side to the other. Once you see the solder sweating out of the joint, remove the heat and let cool for 10 minutes. After removing the clamps, go over the area with 0000 steel wool and you'll never know it was repaired. If you start playing with liquid epoxies/adhesives and when the bond lets go again it will make it much more difficult to remove this stuff to solder it."
  6. benedict1

    benedict1 TS Member

    Mar 21, 2010
    Roger Eubanks in Idaho is a specialist in barrel work. His email is


    I know several competition shooters who give him high marks. He puts ribs on barrels as a specialty. Also does barrel boring, choke work, etc.
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