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GUN SAFE

4K views 11 replies 11 participants last post by  Frank C 
#1 ·
Gun Safe,

Looking at buying a Security Plus Model GSX 516, holds 16 guns.
It is rated at 1400 degrees for 1/2 hour, 5 steel locking bolts and
three dead bolts.

Any thoughts on this safe. I need to get a safe and this
seems to be in my price range.

Birddog
 
#2 ·
What do you need to pay for it?

My local Costco has a nice Browning (that is on the Browning site for $1800) & Costco is selling it for $499.
Has 3 lock bars down the side & one top & bottom.
I have been looking at safes & this is by far a nice one at a great price.
 
#9 ·
Try "Steelwater Gun Safes.com". They have a selection of 5 safes which vary in size. Mine is 30" wide by 24" deep.( All are 59" high). It has a one hour fire rating at 1250 degrees. What impressed me is the 10- 1/1/2" solid steel locking bolts that secure the door. Fully lined with carpeting and has adjustable shelves. Weighs 615 lbs. At the time I bought it, (12/2008) they offered free shipping. Truck driver rolled it right into the garage. I drilled two holes through the back and used 2- 1/2" lag screws to secure it to the wall. I also made a platform to raise it off the floor about 5". Price about $1200.

Dave Hunt
 
#11 ·
A safe can only DELAY determined thieves.

The primary purpose of a safe is to delay thieves long enough for your backup system to summon help, meaning an alarm system.

The secondary purpose of a safe is to protect your guns from fire. A regular safe will work if you live near a fire department and they have a track record of very fast response time. The further away you are, and the slower the response time, the more you need a true fire safe, and the better it must be. Someone way out in the countryside should have a top of the line firesafe. Someone right next door to the fire department can probably get away with an ordinary non-fire safe. The average person would probably be best served by an entry level fire safe.

As far as using angle grinders, one of the best safe setups I saw was a very large safe that was set in a concrete shell. Other than the door itself, there was no way to get to any of the metal. Obviously this safe became a permanent fixture of the house, and because of the weight, it could not sit on a normal floor. At one time Browning used to sell vault doors for those who wanted to make their own reinforced concrete or steel safes.

Another thing about safes is - how much are you protecting? If it's just a .22, a 30-30 and an 870, then a 3 hour rated $3000 safe is a bit much, and one of the cheapie safes might work better. If you've got tens of thousands of dollars worth of firearms, then you ought to be thinking something of far better quality.

One comment was made about about lag bolting into wall studs. Good, but not good enough. The safe also needs to be lag or through bolted to the floor.
 
#12 ·
I can see the point of lagging smaller lighter safes to the floor, but when you are talking a 1000lb safe, unless the thieves come equipped with a "climbing" two wheeler that can get it up/down stairs and loaded into a TRUCK, I cannot see the real need for anchoring. my safe is rated 800 lbs empty, add another 100 lbs at least for contents and there is NO WAY a couple of dopes with a two wheeler or refridgerator dolly is gonna move it out and load it into a truck....
 
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