1. Attention: We have put together a thread with tips and a tutorial video to help with using the new software. Please take a moment to check out the thread here: Trapshooters.com Tutorial & Help Video.
    Dismiss Notice

GUN LUBE

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by torqueman, Mar 25, 2011.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. torqueman

    torqueman Member

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2011
    Messages:
    145
    Whats the best lube to use on a over and under gun usiing rem oil now .
    THANKS JOE
     
  2. BAD 303

    BAD 303 Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2006
    Messages:
    3,547
    You want something for lube or something for rust prevention? For all around prevention and lubrication nothinmg beats Break Free. For hinge pins and wear areas on an O/U Stos and a thousand others choices work fine. Rem Oil is a poor choice for anything in my experience.
     
  3. Ted K.

    Ted K. Member

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2009
    Messages:
    507
    Location:
    Tiburon, CA
    This topic seems to resurface every few months. . . .

    I have tried a number of different greases, and I finally shied away from all of them, because you have only two choices - leave the grease on the gun, or take it off after you shoot. If you leave it on, it WILL collect grit, and the grit WILL increase the wear on the bearing parts (the ones that rub each other). Taking the grease off every time you shoot is hard to do - it is hard to get it out of the crevices, and some grease is so dark you can't see where it is or what it is carrying or covering up.

    So I use a fairly heavy light-colored engine oil. I apply a few drops to the relevant places before I shoot, and I use a rag to wipe the gun completely dry after I finish shooting for the day. I find that oil is quite easy to get out of the gun with a rag - even from the small crevices. AND I can see the dirt, small specks of powder, etc. and ensure I get that stuff out too.

    FWIW, the oil I use is Mobil 1, and I use 10W-40. But I don't think the brand or weight of oil is very important - virtually any good grade of oil will do the trick if you replace it every time you shoot. (It helps if it is light colored, hence the Mobil 1.) I have used less than a quart in two years, and that includes giving some to my friends (a little dab'll do ya).

    I should add that putting oil on my gun before I shoot takes about one minute, and taking it off the gun after I shoot takes 2-3 minutes. It's not a big chore. I bough a package of cheap rags at Home Depot more than a year ago, and they have lasted quite well - occasionally my wife washes them, and they come out looking like cheap rags that have been washed. But they still wipe up the oil.

    I might mention that the Perazzi people recommend using only oil, not grease.

    If there is one place that it may be worth using grease, it's on your choke tubes. They stay in there for a fair amount of time, and if they are not well lubricated, they can freeze up. And it's easy to wipe a choke tube completely clean on the outside and not very hard to wipe the muzzle end of the barrel with a rag and get all the grease out of there, too.

    I use a very high grade of Lubriplate (would you believe "food grade"), which is probably overkill, but maybe the BB's realize I'm a high-class guy when they go by my high-class grease and resolve to do a better job when they get to the target. Whatever . . . the high grade grease makes me feel better, even if the choke tubes and/or the BB's don't care.

    Kolar specifically recommends using grease on their choke tubes.

    Ted K.
     
  4. Mr. Lester

    Mr. Lester Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    132
    I use Super Lube. With a name like that,how could I go wrong. Lester
     
  5. chipking

    chipking TS Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    1,761
    I have used CMD grease for many years now since Kolar introduced me to it. I grease just before I shoot and then clean thoroughly at the end of the day. Yes it is a little more work than oil but I think my guns have earned the little extra love especially since they have to put up with my shooting. AND I never rest the open gun on my shoulder. This is the fastest way to transfer grit and junk directly to the grease at the receiver / forearm joint and ruin a gun fast.

    --- Chip King ---
     
  6. archangel

    archangel Member

    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2010
    Messages:
    254
    I've always wondered if 90 wt synthetic gear oil would fit the bill. it's thick yet flows. what do others think. plus it's inexpensive a large tube should last a life time.
     
  7. Stl Flyn

    Stl Flyn Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2010
    Messages:
    8,698
    Oil between two sufaces with a very small tolerance (.001 Or less) works the same as grease. It does not collect dirt and get sticky as fast either.
     
  8. goose2

    goose2 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2007
    Messages:
    2,037
    Chip king, if your gun is showing ware from lint off your cloths you had better head to a better brand of gun. I almost split an o ring when you said that. Your not serious are you.
     
  9. chipking

    chipking TS Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    1,761
    Dead serious Goose2 Think about it. Your gun sets on its recoil pad on the ground or a wooden gun rack that is covered with dirt and debris from mowing. Now you bring that recoil pad up to your shoulder and shoot. That crap has just been knocked off onto your shoulder. Then you break your gun open and lay that open greasy or oily opening right down on the place where you just deposited all the crap. Here in the East is bad enough just imagine what it would be like in the Southwest in a sandy environment.


    --- Chip King ---
     
  10. Unknown1

    Unknown1 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2009
    Messages:
    3,400
    <blockquote>"I've always wondered if 90 wt synthetic gear oil would fit the bill. it's thick yet flows. what do others think."</blockquote>Depends on the gun...I think it would be sorta like the Gator Tears...might work fine on a pair of hinge pins but it's WAY too thick for a sliding knuckle joint.

    I use Dupont Krytox GPL 205. -20º to 110º, doesn't matter... same viscosity. Tried CMD today in 40º temps. A Browning knuckle that falls open under its own weight on Krytox just sorta sagged slowly on CMD.

    MK
     
  11. Jon Reitz

    Jon Reitz Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2006
    Messages:
    2,196
    Location:
    West Clarksville, NY
    I like Super Lube by Permatex. It's a clear grease-type lubricant and is not thick like CMD. I've used CMD, but got away from it. It's extremely thick and very difficult to wipe off, especially in cold weather. I always wipe the grease off when I'm done shooting so dirt particles don't get in the lubricant causing an abrasive action. I've also had good luck with red wheel bearing grease.

    Jon Reitz
     
  12. 3357

    3357 Member

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2007
    Messages:
    769
    Lucas Oil "red n tacky" #2 has served me very well.
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.