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Gun Club Hulls

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by straightshooter1, Oct 27, 2010.

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  1. straightshooter1

    straightshooter1 Well-Known Member TS Supporters

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    I read the long thread a few weeks ago about reloading steel based hulls and the potential wear and damage to the gun.

    My question concerns the older Gun Club Hulls which appear to be brass. However, they seem to be only brass coated (if that's the right word for it).

    Would they be okay for reloading? Would the thin layer of brass give similar to the brass base on, for example, an STS?

    Bob
     
  2. southjblue

    southjblue Active Member

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    Take a magnet to the hull---That will tell if hull base is brass---I try to only use brass hulls---Mystic---
     
  3. BigDave1200

    BigDave1200 Member

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    Bob, I think the issue is that they are steel whether they are brass colored or not. I would think that you would have to shoot a lot of them for years before you would notice any damage to the breach face. If I shot 500-1000 rounds per week, I might be concerned, but if it is 100-200/week, it probably take many years to see any noticeable damage.

    dave
     
  4. Barry C. Roach

    Barry C. Roach Well-Known Member

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    All GC's have steel bases. Period
     
  5. Unknown1

    Unknown1 Well-Known Member

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    The steel in the hull base is way softer than the steel in the receiver of any good gun. Don't worry about it. I have a couple early 80's Citoris that have been fed a steady diet of steel bases all their lives and they look fine.

    MK
     
  6. Quack Shot

    Quack Shot Active Member

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    Brass is brass and steel is steel, no matter what color they make it. I really don't see much trouble with modern guns and steel headed hulls. I have shot many thousands of the gunclub hulls with steel heads. Guns are still just fine with no signs of trouble. Some primers might make a slight difference, but I've never had trouble from steel heads. I make sure they are sized properly and the primers are seated correctly.
     
  7. Unknown1

    Unknown1 Well-Known Member

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    <blockquote><i>"...if you shoot them in the same gun all the time they will chamber size themselves so no need to resize easier on your loader too...."</I></blockquote>Resizing is sometimes done more for the benefit of the loader than the gun, especially for P-Ws that try to force a .814" steel hull base into a .806 die to resize the hull. It's much easier on the linkages and pins to resize the hull to ±.808" first in a collet like the MEC Super-Sizer and finish the job in the die.

    MK
     
  8. 3dram8

    3dram8 Member

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    Unknown1, you are correct about the steel hull heads being much softer than the breech-face steel. It shouldn't be a wear issue to the breech face at all. Brass-headed hulls have a little more resiliency or "spring-back" to them than steel-headed ones, and I think this is why the steel ones tend to require more effort to resize than the brass ones do. This is also why it's important that you DO resize the steel-headed hulls with each reloading to help prevent extraction and ejecting issues. .....Rick
     
  9. wolfram

    wolfram Well-Known Member

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    Load em and shoot them then repeat. No need to dump GC hulls after one loading, they hold up as well as STS (maybe better). They do have a steel head which is a bit more difficult to resize but you should resize them even if they are only shot in your one gun/bbl. This has to do with steel not springing back to original dimensions as readily as brass. A squirt of lanolin lube on a few shells now and then (Dillon's metalic case lube) helps a lot with the resizing.

    Now as far as wearing your gun out because you are shooting steel head shells, well I haven't seen any problems and most the guys I know are shooting 10K(+) rounds of steel head ammo in their high buck guns annually. I guess we should be so lucky to be able to afford to shoot enough to actually see a problem.
     
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