1. Attention: We have put together a thread with tips and a tutorial video to help with using the new software. Please take a moment to check out the thread here: Trapshooters.com Tutorial & Help Video.
    Dismiss Notice

Giacomo and the GRAND

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by PerazziBigBore, Aug 17, 2009.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. PerazziBigBore

    PerazziBigBore TS Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    3,859
    I've just returned from the GRAND and working with Dan and Doug. Dan is truely a master of Perazzi's.. Giacomo has done a fantastic job of teaching Dan all there is to know about Perazzi's.. I learned a bunch from Dan during my stay. The more I learn.. the more I find there is much more..and little "tricks" to get everything perfect in a older worn gun.
    I've also seen the screw ups left by other gunsmiths???or maybe I should say Blacksmiths.. I've seen fairly new Perazzi's almost destroyed by the use of grease.. and improper cleaning. (a MX2005..once cleaned..the locking bolt flopped around so badly.and even the largest locking bolt blank we had that was vastly oversized..just flopped around) Dan is making a bolt by hand for it that will fit correctly.
    Ejector timing has 6 points of adjustment.. way more than the 2 I knew about.. And a 4 oz. hammer works wonders..if you know what to do with it to tighten up a worn Perazzi..
    90% of Perazzi shooters need a new top lever return spring.which will help extend the life of the locking bolt..
    If the end of a firing pin breaks off.. and lands just right.. you'll need to break the top lever to get into the gun.. So check those pins.. It's also worse on the older 1 piece pins..
    Every few years change your firing pin return pins.. Many are worn out.

    Upgrade your lower hammer face if you have a older trigger.. A must if you use the new design firing pins..AND the older ones are not avaiable..
    The new trigger design of the TM9 is vastly improved over the TM1 and is a drop in once fitted. Top levers for the older TM series don't exist anymore.. so if you have a chance to get one and shoot a TM series gun..it's worth it to have.

    Never cock you triggers out of the gun by pushing the hammers on a hard surface..You can hurt parts in the trigger.. Always use your thumbs to do that.

    Grease should be used on the barrel ears where the locking bolt engages..THIS IS THE ONLY SPOT GREASE IS USED ON A PERAZZI.. NOT THE HINGE PINS).. Tri-flo for everything else.

    A few times a year..remove your receiver from the wood and soak in mineral spirits overnight.. rinse well and reoil. This will extend the life of your gun greatly..You do not need to disassemble anything..

    This is just a short list..I'm sure more will come to my mind as I recover from the trip to Sparta.

    I enjoyed seeing all of you up there.. and G-d willing..will see you up there again next year..
    Shoot well... All Good.. Mike
     
  2. zinger

    zinger Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    582
    Mike, do you know if Danny and Doug are going to the Cardinal Classic this week?
     
  3. GunDr

    GunDr Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    2,913
    Mike- you have a PM

    Doug Braker
     
  4. Shooter R

    Shooter R Active Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2008
    Messages:
    509
    I've been useing the Perazzi supplied grease on my MX15. After I brush, swab and oil the barrel, I put the grease everywhere. Hinge pin "cut outs" on the barrel, the ejector actuator, barrel locking ears, and on the forearm retaining stud. Also on the forearm iron surfaces, and pretty much all over inside the reciever.

    Are you saying (except for the barrel locking ears) to just spray tri flo (Is Rem oil with teflon OK?) on the rest of the stuff? Includeing the trigger, and the sear?

    Where can I find out the correct way to R&R the fireing pins and the top lever to change the springs? I do soak the reciever and chamber area of the barrels in a bucket of 1 gallon mineral spirits and a quart of ATF (automatic transmision fluid, which leaves a coat of oil to prevent rust), then I use a air hose to remove any grim.

    Thanks. It's good to get info from someone who really knows Perazzi's. Any other tips are appreciated.
     
  5. ebsurveyor

    ebsurveyor Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    950
    Location:
    PA
    do you know if Danny and Doug are going to the Cardinal Classic this week?

    Yes they are going.
     
  6. THALL

    THALL Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2007
    Messages:
    513
    Mike, it was good to see you again. Thank you for helping me with my friends Perazzi. Hope you can make it to the Alabama State Shoot again. Take care overseas. Tim Hall
     
  7. SMITH47

    SMITH47 Member

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2008
    Messages:
    561
    Mike
    could you post a pic or diagram where to use grease
    (barrel ears where the locking bolt engages)

    thanks,
    ernie
     
  8. Conn. Man

    Conn. Man Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    797
    Location:
    Timbucktoo
    Yah,Id second that request, please (pitcure or diagram)

    Thanx,Sandy Holehouse
     
  9. digger1dog

    digger1dog Member

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2006
    Messages:
    299
    Location:
    Michigan
    Mike,

    A couple of pictures would be helpful, I was useing grease on mine..

    Fred J.
     
  10. Hap MecTweaks

    Hap MecTweaks Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    9,228
    Location:
    Mesquite, Nevada
    I had a few things that needed done to my MX-3 Special and waited till I went to the CA state shoot so I could have Giacomo and crew do the work!! He's the master of my P repairs! It's as good as new now after the minor tweaks!! Hap
     
  11. PerazziBigBore

    PerazziBigBore TS Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    3,859
    Ears are the 2 tapered projections on the rear of the barrel where the locking bolt pushes the barrel down to lock it.. DO NOT push grease into the locking bolt from the face of the receiver.. It traps dirt..

    Dan and Doug will be at the Cardnal next week.. I'm home now.. Don't oil your gun with transmission oil.. It to traps dirt unless its synthetic. A spray can of Tri-flo or Breakfree will do quite a few receivers.. If the Rem oil has PTFE it should work equally as well.. Pure mineral spirits works the best.. and a airhose if you have one.. Remember to blow air under the cocking bar to push the crud out..

    Also.. those people who grease up the forend parts caused many problems for themselves if they didn't remove and clean the forend regularly.. Problem there is discoloring the wood with oil.. A drop is all you need..

    As far as changing the top lever return spring.. Only if you have the release pin on the lower right hand side do I advise you to try.. Top center its useful to have a special tool.. or a vise and a extra pair of hands.

    Remove the firing pins and locking bolt catch.. be sure to remove the firing pin springs.. Take a small punch.. with the top lever centered.. and push the top lever out.. When it reaches a certain point.. the top lever return spring and housing (the round thing with the slot)(it is NOT a screw).will come flying out the back..

    change spring in housing..and insert housing back in the receiver.. Push it in until the grooves in the top lever line up.. and push the top lever back in till it bottoms out.. Then reinstall the locking bolt stop..then the bottom firing pin and spring.. the the top firing pin and spring.. I was showing many people at the GRAND how to do this.. If I'm up there next year.. I'm glad to show anyone who wants to learn.. Just come at 5.30pm.. and bring a burger..from Buffalo Bob.. Damn are they good..

    As our economy is giving me change I can see..LOL.. I'm happy to help anyone extend the life of their Perazzi.. All Good.. Mike
     
  12. PerazziBigBore

    PerazziBigBore TS Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    3,859
    The arrow points to where you put grease.. The dip you see in the end is wear..Once worn down.. you'll need to weld up the missing area.. and recut it.. You grease this area on both sides of the mono-block.. Just a little.. A toothpick is a good applicator.. or a matchstick.. Clean off the grease before you regrease this area.. so your grease is clean and fresh..
     
  13. Conn. Man

    Conn. Man Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    797
    Location:
    Timbucktoo
    Mike,that will be appreciated.

    Thanx, Sandy
     
  14. joehunter

    joehunter Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    715
    Mike,
    I had a great time with you and learned a lot. Looking forward to next year.
    Thanks again for the laughs.

    Joey
     
  15. PerazziBigBore

    PerazziBigBore TS Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    3,859
    Joey.. It was great meeting you too.. and you were a vast help to us.. Hopefully.. we'll do it again next year.. All Good.. Locking Bolt LOL
     
  16. glenn mcleod

    glenn mcleod Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    528
    Stopped in to meet Mike, nice fellow. I always enjoy his posts. Glenn
     
  17. AAtrap

    AAtrap Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2006
    Messages:
    1,552
    Location:
    Nebraska
    Mike, glad I got to stop by and shake your hand and say hello. Best of luck in your future ventures. I know you are excited about your move. Steve
     
  18. model50lover

    model50lover TS Member

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2009
    Messages:
    20
    Hi Mike, It's always nice to read your post's!You always give great advice! and folks remember it's All for FREE! This is a great Site For Shooters. I Hope some day, that I may get to meet you in Person to shake your hand for a Proper Thank You!


    Brent
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.