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Garage floor paint suggestion?

Discussion in 'Off Topic Threads' started by joe kuhn, Aug 4, 2012.

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  1. joe kuhn

    joe kuhn Furry Lives Matter TS Supporters

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    Looking for some reasonably priced garage floor paint. I've seen the stuff you mix with various colors and even speckles in it. This is a garage floor. All I want is something that is grey and stays put. Johnny and his friends painted the ceiling and walls already, so this is the last step.

    Suggestions?
     
  2. Mags123

    Mags123 Member

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    Prep is what counts most on painting garage floors. acid etching helps but gringing down the surface is really the only way to assure good adhesion. The more solids in the Epoxy paint, the better. If your floor is not prepped right, hot tires sitting on the floor will pull the paint right off.
     
  3. GW22

    GW22 Active Member

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    If you want something that "stays put" then price better not be a primary criterion. Even the very best floor paint eventually comes off, especially if you don't heed Mag's wise comments.

    -Gary
     
  4. stokinpls

    stokinpls Well-Known Member

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    The "speckles" may be there for traction. Some floor paints turn cement floors (especially wet), into a skating rink. We made the mistake of painting a front porch with an epoxy once. We ended up having to put outdoor carpeting over it after a couple slips. Good luck.
     
  5. AEST BOSS

    AEST BOSS Member

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    Joe,

    My wife and I built our dream home back in spring of 2007. I wanted what you describe above....and after lots of research I went with PPG's "Aquapon" concrete sealer/paint. The stuff is still holding strong and looking great all these years later. As Mags explains above...prep is extremely important. Here is exactly what I did:
    1) Etch concrete with Muriatic Acid
    2) Mix well--1.5 gallons of Aquapon #97-130 with 1.5 gallons of Aquapon #97-139...then add .5 gallons PPG Thinner #97-734 to this mixture to have a total of 3.5 gallons of paint to apply to garage floor
    3) Broadcast "Sharks Tooth" to the top of this first coat of paint.
    4) Allow this to cure for 2 days.
    5) Mix new batch of Aquapon 50/50 like in #2 above....BUT DO NOT USE THINNER on this coat. No more sharks tooth either.
    6) Allow to cure for another 2 days.

    I hope this helps, and that the Aquapon is still being made by PPG. You never know with all the joke EPA rules in our life.
     
  6. joe kuhn

    joe kuhn Furry Lives Matter TS Supporters

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    Thanks for all the suggestions.

    Coming from the farm, a garage floor is a transition area with less of a priority than what you folks are into. Plus, I'd rather be shooting than working all day today on this. My starting point is:

    "Can't we get some cheap ass grey paint to put on there?"

    After thinking about it, I don't mind if the paint comes off the floor from the car tires, so my idea is to match the grey color of the bare cement as best I can and call it done. When the paint comes off from the tires, it'll look "just ok" and the white speckles from painting the walls and ceiling will have been covered. Nothing sticks where the cars drive, so the white drips should wear away too.

    Not knowing anything about paint I just don't know what kind to get for this compromise. It sounds like epoxy is what I want. I know they'r good at matching colors, so I'll find a chip of that cement and take it with to the paint store.

    Here's what the garage looks like now. That step needs painting too. Thanks everybody. It helps to talk in over. I'm ready to go to Menards.


    joekuhn_2008_030372.jpg
     
  7. Catpower

    Catpower Molon Labe TS Supporters

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    If you want a cheap even color that won't wear off, just save enough used diesel oil and liberally soak the floor down

    It will last forever and give you a nice even black patina

    Now before you take my advice I was just kidding

    But my shop floors have big blotches of black spots all over them
     
  8. halfmile

    halfmile Well-Known Member

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    I have some commercial stuff I got from a mall job, it was used in the back stockroom. It's by Sherwin-Williams, called Armor-Seal. Also says Tredplex on the can.

    Nice light gray. I did a trailer bed with it and it's still pretty nice. The link shows a 5 gallon but I had a gallon. If the price was not too bad I would go with it. Those mall stock areas take a beating.

    HM
     
  9. Mark-in-Maine

    Mark-in-Maine Member

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    Home Depot sells an epoxy type primer that will bond a good floor and deck paint
    to your cement floor.
     
  10. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    I'm confused as to why you would even do it if you don't really care? After all Joe, anything worth doing is worth doing right. The kits work great and when you follow the directions last. Don't halfa$$ it.
     
  11. cubancigar2000

    cubancigar2000 Well-Known Member

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    I agree with MaTT. Do it right or leave it alone
     
  12. LDAdd

    LDAdd TS Member

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    Sir,

    My advice would be to just don't paint it at all. That is creating a perpetual maintainance problem.

    Just me I guess...

    Larry
     
  13. joe kuhn

    joe kuhn Furry Lives Matter TS Supporters

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    Got talked into 'the program' at Menards. Oil stripper, etcher, special paint. With treats for the boy and his friends, $100.
     
  14. ImpalaBob

    ImpalaBob Member

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    http://www.swisstrax.com/jay-lenos-garage.php

    That new home depot deck paint is a very good idea.

    You can also get concrete dye.
     
  15. steele

    steele TS Member

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    Many years ago,30+, I built a garage for parking & also for painting cars occasionaly. I had a contact with the highway department that got me 5 gallons of the paint used for the white lines on highways. This floor still looks new.
    The best part is the reflective qualities. You light a match & the garage almost glows! Excellant for seeing when woking/painting,etc. Butch from Pgh
     
  16. Ontario Chris

    Ontario Chris Member

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    I looked into painting or epoxying my garage floor of 20 years. The reps of several manufacturers told me that they do not recommend coating floors that old. I took their advice and did nothing.

    Chris
     
  17. Stl Flyn

    Stl Flyn Well-Known Member

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    This is what my Garage floor looks like. This includes my new stock shop floor, which is a side slot in my garage, for a fourth vehicle or trailer, that I am enclosing. Total cost with acid etching and scrubbing was around $800 (1100 sq. ft.). This is the professional grade Rust-Oleum Epoxy Shield garage floor system, (Paint, Chips, and Clear coat). All labor was provided by myself. The base-cove was extra.

    If this is to much, I would scrub the floor with Muriatic Acid and a stiff brush. Then just seal it with some concrete sealer. Even a decent paint that will hold up for a couple of weeks is going to be more expensive and will look twice as bad as you started with when it starts pealing off. Again the acid washing is the most important step!
    stlflyn_2010_0704261.jpg

    stlflyn_2010_0704262.jpg
     
  18. Pull & Mark

    Pull & Mark Well-Known Member

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    Depending of size maybe try one of the new flooting type Linolium interlocking floors!!! Not sure maybe more $$$ than the good epoxy type paint though. Or try a good paint and lay down tire tracks in 12 inch X 12 inch sq. Linolium tiles for each car (if double) and paint the rest. This would help you guide the cars into proper place as well. The hot tires should not hurt these tiles and you can always replace them (one tile at a time, as they come up) if you get the standard pattern. Something to think about. break em all Jeff
     
  19. motordoctor

    motordoctor Shoji Tabuchi in Branson

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    I used a product called U Coat It.They advertise on tv all the time. In detroit. Great stuff. Yes the muratic acid deal and clean it but it comes in a kit for the 2 car garage with everything in one can. paint two coats with a dvd and instructions. check their web site. The one thing that I likes was that the floor must be wet and all the others say dry but they do not tell you how dry. I put doen the first base coat and then throw sand that they give you into the mix then the top coat. I would not use the sand again as it is too hard to wash but the down side is a bit slippery. You can also use the flex but that requires another top coat. I think it was about 250 for the two cr space and has held up great for 12 years. would recommend it again. motordoc
     
  20. Stl Flyn

    Stl Flyn Well-Known Member

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    I put the silica sand texture in the clear coat when I did the steps going into the house. The rest of the floor is very smooth. I did not want to put the sand in just so that it is easier to sweep, and also wash, and squeegee off. I also put a urethane caulk in the expansion cracks so dirt can not get in to them.

    That being said, I did almost take a spill when I did not see some water on the floor. I was in bare feet, and almost did the splits, before taking numerous recovery steps to regain my balance. Did a number on the lower back muscles also. We have not had snow yet since, so that shall be an experience also.
     
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