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Frozen 870-TB Recoil Pad Screws- Please Help

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by Darth Vader, Aug 25, 2010.

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  1. Darth Vader

    Darth Vader TS Member

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    My gunsmith says that the pad screws on my 1970 tb870 are frozen and he is afraid to force them. No biggie as I just wanted to add some lead to the stock. The gun is like new and I don't want to screw it up. What would cause wood screws to freeze up??? Thanks for your ideas and help. James Carpenter
     
  2. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    Maybe wood shrinkage from humidity/temp changes. Tron help this guy out...
     
  3. B.C.

    B.C. Member

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    Probably rusted in place, use a Phillips screw driver {may be a #3} and tap on them, then clamp on a pair of vise grips to the screw driver and back them out { hopefully } hope this works ! B.C.
     
  4. OldGoat

    OldGoat Well-Known Member

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    James, I had exactly the same problem with a very nice original 1100 trap gun...nothing worked to get the screws out of the pad; took it to the Grand and Remington had 3 technicians trying to figure out how to get the screws out. Don't know what they did, but got the gun back with the pad on and BIG raggedy holes for each of the screws in the pad. Basically this original pad was functional, but ruined. Later had a KickEez pad installed. I asked them what they had to do and got an answer: "You really don't want to know." I think they used a ratchet wrench on it. Regards, Ed
     
  5. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    Those factory Remington pads are junk anyway. IMO Kick-EZE is the only way to go. If you get the screws out, put some threaded inserts into the stock and then you can remove and install the pad all you want. Best thing i ever added to my guns was the inserts and Kick-EZE pads. Matt
     
  6. ljutic73

    ljutic73 Well-Known Member

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    I had it happen once. I secured the gun in my padded vice and decontructed the pad until all that was left basically was the baseplate and the screws. Then I got busy with my biggest Vicegrip. No contest!
     
  7. GunDr

    GunDr Well-Known Member

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    When removing the pad screws from a Remington, DO NOT use a phillips screw driver. You need to use a square drive bit. I don't remember the number right now, but I think it's the same size that's used for sheetrock.

    The phillips will keep slipping until the slots are rounded.

    Doug
     
  8. senior smoke

    senior smoke Well-Known Member

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    Drill the holes in the pad a little larger. Then put some 0000 steel wool around the drill bit to smooth out the new drilled holes. Then get a larger Phillips and attempt to loosen them. This has worked numerous times for me in the past. If this still does not work, saw off the pad from top to bottom. Break it off and then use a vice grips. If you want to keep the gun original with the same Remington pad do a thread on T.S.Com and ask who has a Remington pad, they are not using. Most guys will give the pad to you free. Also, if your gun is a straight stock, mention this, as the monte carlo pads will be to small to fit on a straight stock 870 TB gun.

    Steve Balistreri
     
  9. senior smoke

    senior smoke Well-Known Member

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    I forgot to mention the 1100 trap pad is the same as the Remington 870 tb pad.
    Steve
     
  10. zeroed4x

    zeroed4x TS Member

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    Aug 22, 2010
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    I recently had the same issue with an old Winchester 1300 pump that I purchased back in 1979. I decided to upgrade the pad to a Kick-ees but had a screw that just would not come out. The bottom screw felt like it was stuck and no amout of clamping and force on a good "gun screw driver" was going to get it out.
    I was pissed, I assumed that someone had buggered the screw and was almost going to drill/tap and get mid-evil on its stubborn ass.
    It turns out that the old pad had crumbled a bit, leaving some residual rubber from the pad in the slot of the screw. When I started fishing for answers and solutions I decided to use a long skinny needle nose to spread the pad so I could get a light on it if possible. I could not see anything, no wear on the back of the screw, couldn't even see the screw head. Knowing that sometimes the factory assembly procedures leave a bit to be desired I assumed that the pad had long strands of rubber protruding beyond the base plate and into the screw cavity.
    I use sharp pair of precision tweezers and yanked the rubber from the screw slot. It was stuck / welded / melted onto the screw slot and required a bit of effort to remove enough of it. After that excess rubber was removed the screw lost its battle, I kicked its ass.

    If you have a truly stuck screw and there are no obstructions in the screw slot.
    Take a brass drift punch and tap the top of the screw head a few times.
    Then try it again.
    If you can get one screw off of the pad and completely out, use a steel bench ruler of similar robust flat metal to pry the pad up tight against the screw.
    Get your(gun smith) screw driver on it and rotate the pad left as you turn the screw. You are going to need someone to help because you need three hands.
    Sometimes this extra leverage on the screw will get them spinning.
     
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