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Forend Loose? Permanent fix in Pics

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by JACK, Dec 1, 2010.

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  1. JACK

    JACK Well-Known Member Supporting Vendor

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    Always updating my gun as better parts come along. So I end up with a silk purse out of what once was a somewhat helter-skelter gun. Bought a forend off the forum and kept my fingers crossed the colors would be better than my old cobbled forend stock set-up. But it was tight on the bbl and loose at the latch/lug point. So, I sanded the bbl inlet area to relieve that tension and then I built up the inside of the foredn at the front to take up the extra space. Here is how I do this ratehr than just laying tape at the front of the forend or on the false bbl.

    First I covered the bbl in cling wrap so that the glue would not adhere to the bbl.

    Second I made a slurry of oak sawdust and 2 part clear Devcon 5 minute epoxy glue and applied that to the front portion of theinside of the forend. About 1 mm thick.
    [​IMG]


    Third, I put the forend on the gun just until the latch closed and did not force it further. This is what the first 3 steps got me to.
    [​IMG]


    Here is what the build up look like after it set and I removed the forend and puled away the cling wrap. And you can see the sanded edges of the forend allowing it to float on the bbl.

    [​IMG]


    Next I Dremeled the excess and then sanded it smooth to the front shape I wanted it to be.
    [​IMG]


    Here it is ready for stain
    [​IMG]


    Then I stained it using Minwax Special Walnut, but prob would have been better off with dark walnut.
    [​IMG]


    But Special walnut is not dark enough but allows me to do it i two or 3 coats to arrive at the desired tint. the stain does not soak into the devcon. Barely into the exposed wood shavings. I'd be better off if I had some walnut sawdust and perhaps one of you wood guys could send me a a couple-3 ounces. First coat
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Lastly I put two thin coats of Minwax clear semi-gloss polyurethane varnish on the outside affected area and on coat on the insides of the forend to repel rain and oils. So here is the finished product. If you look carefully you can still see the lighter epoxy area. But you will not see it unless you know what you are looking for.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Ok, Let's see if I have this in the right order.
     
  2. cubancigar2000

    cubancigar2000 Well-Known Member

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    Nice job Jack. You have a lot of patience
     
  3. JACK

    JACK Well-Known Member Supporting Vendor

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    Thanks Paul. The walnut dust should eliminate most of the staining.

    Jack Swanson

    P.O. Box 303

    Prescott, WI 54021

    Actually this fix of slurry can fix a lot of ills. I raced one man/one design sailboats for about 10 years and you may think that sailing is a laid-back sport, but it is just the opposite. The Boats crash and bang into each other all the time and you learn to fix fiberglass and wood dings between races. Too, the handling of the sheets(ropes) toughens your hands but after a number of years the intensity brings on arthritis, fat knuckles, stiff joints etc. Toss a cat bite in and it is a wonder that I can hold a gun. But this stock in particular has a slim neck and it grips easily. I may clone this stock when I get my MX15 up and running. Comes in today. But no outside pics for the time being. Cold and snowy here.
     
  4. andybull

    andybull Active Member

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    Good job. Next time you may want to try Acraglass, you can use the glass fibers and stain kit that's available from Brownells.
     
  5. wolfram

    wolfram Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for sharing this. I have a 682 that needs something like this done. Any problems getting the plastic away from the Devcon?
     
  6. JACK

    JACK Well-Known Member Supporting Vendor

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    no peels away with ease
     
  7. senior smoke

    senior smoke Well-Known Member

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    Nice job.
    Steve Balistreri
     
  8. JACK

    JACK Well-Known Member Supporting Vendor

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    Just bringing this back to say THANKS to Paul (85TTR).

    Paul sent me perfect dust shavings that come from his working with handles. 4 different types. English walnut, Claro walnut, and two others. The nice part about the slurry is that it appears to be wood once it sets up and it can be machined as wood. The sawdust will make for excellent stock repairs. Thanks Paul.

    Jack
     
  9. skeet_man

    skeet_man Well-Known Member

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    Another idea is to drill a 1/4" to 3/8" hole in the front of the forend (where the repair is shown at the beginning of this thread) and install a rubber button. This is how the forends on the Seitz guns are fit, at least the couple that I looked at...
     
  10. grunt

    grunt TS Supporters TS Supporters

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    Remington 90Ts have the same button in their forends.
     
  11. hmb

    hmb Well-Known Member

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    I use Devcon a lot for bedding rifles. I use paste wax as a release agent between the stock and the barreled action. Try it, you will get a perfect fit an finished look. HMB
     
  12. JACK

    JACK Well-Known Member Supporting Vendor

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    hmb. Yes, I should have thought of that. Adn I agree with the rubber button. But I was trying to get away form the gap between the metal and the wood. Adn the rubber should take some of the "ting" out of the bbl. Job came out good. Would have been better with the walnut sawdust I have now.
     
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