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Fixing a crack in your stock

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by jbmi, Apr 4, 2010.

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  1. jbmi

    jbmi Well-Known Member

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    I have fixd a few stocks that have developed cracks, both rifle and shotgun.
    My latest fix was done on an XT stock that developed a crack at the bottom of the top tang.
    I removed the receiver from the stock and using a flexable shaft on my drill I drilled a 5/64th hole parallel to the crack about 1/16"-3/32" below the surface and as long as the crack. I then wrapped the stock with rubber tubing to draw the crack as tight as I could get it. The 5/64 hole is slightly larger than a hardwood toothpic which I cut off the tapered point. Coating the toothpic with a good woodglue or Accruglass I filled the hole and let it dry.
    This method will interrupt the split in the woods fiber and bond the wood with a 360 degree glue joint. As most woodworkers know a proper glue joint will be stronger than the wood.
    I've had good success with this method and am just passing along this info.
    Take it for what's it's worth.
     
  2. phirel

    phirel TS Member

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    jbmi- Your method will work. I would add that it is important to find out why the stock cracked. The crack you described sounds like one due to an inletting problem. I would fix the problem first and then repair the crack.

    Pat Ireland
     
  3. Baron23

    Baron23 Well-Known Member

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    I have had small cracks at the rear radius of a Kolar's trigger plate and behind the top tang of a K-80.

    I had both pinned by stock makers....that is, the method described above...and they have been without problems for years since.

    In both cases, after the epoxy is dry, excess must be relieved and hence the inletting in that area is reworked....which would hopefully alleviate any high spots if they were the cause of the crack.

    Cheers
     
  4. jbmi

    jbmi Well-Known Member

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    Pat, you're correct and I forgot to mention that step, thinking most would realize the original problem. I took my Dremel tool with a small sanding drum to finish off the repair then continued to relieve the area where I noticed the binding every so slightly till it showed the same uniform gap around the tang. Final step was to apply a couple of light coats of polyurethane to seal the exposed raw wood.
     
  5. wireguy

    wireguy TS Member

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    Two part epoxies don't dry, they set up.
     
  6. ou.3200

    ou.3200 Well-Known Member

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    Drilling a small hole in the end of the wood at the crack and injecting the epoxy with an appropriate size syringe until it fills the crack makes for a very strong repair. Clamp lightly with a padded clamp or wrap with surgical tubing to hold it in place until the epoxy sets.
     
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