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Fix loose top rib?

Discussion in 'Off Topic Threads' started by Steve W, Apr 4, 2011.

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  1. Steve W

    Steve W Well-Known Member

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    The back 4" of the top rib came loose, I can push it side to side 1/32".

    Now the very back of the rib is held in place by the wedge from the solid rib over the chamber, I don't think it's going anywhere unless the whole rib become loose.

    Anyone ever had one of this problem fixed?

    Thank you for your help.
     
  2. MOP

    MOP Active Member

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    Philip Crenwelge of Philip's Gunsmithing will resolder the rib for you at a reasonable cost. He repaired a loose side rib and top rib on a Perazzi barrel for me for around $150, as I recall. He has performed several jobs for me, and he does very good work at reasonable prices.
     
  3. R.Kipling

    R.Kipling Well-Known Member

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    If it's just a shooter for the Boy Scouts and you're not worried about it, then Loctite has an excellent adhesive for the project. I have used it to reattach front sight blades.

    Kip
     
  4. TOOLMAKER 251

    TOOLMAKER 251 Active Member

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    Steve, I have resoldered many many ribs that came loose, most of them Winchester 101's and maybe 4 Perazzi MX-8's It's quite easy and take about 15 minutes. Get a 1/2" wide strip of 320 emery cloth and put it under the rib area where the solder broke loose. Clean that area on the barrel lightly. Blow out any debris, now take a toothpick any apply solder flux on top the barrel where you just cleaned. Take a strip of lead solder on a flat surface and hit it with a hammer a few times to flatten it out to about .010 thick. Now Cut the flattened solder with scissors into 3/8" pieces and stick them every inch apart between the top of barrel under rib. Clamp lightly the barrel and rib with 2 C clamps making sure you have packing between the clamping surfaces so you don't mar the finish. You only need a few pounds of clamping force to do this. Now fire up your map/propane torch and start moving the flame in the area where the rib and barrel meet and keep the flame moving in the working area, switching from one side to the other. Once you see the solder sweating out of the joint, remove the heat and let cool for 10 minutes. After removing the clamps, go over the area with 0000 steel wool and you'll never know it was repaired. If you start playing with liquid epoxies/adhesives and when the bond lets go again it will make it much more difficult to remove this stuff to solder it.
     
  5. ABH

    ABH Member

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    Steve,

    I fixed a rib on a Winchester 101, about 2 months ago, with your exact same problem. I sprayed the area with break clean and let dry. Then I applied some JB Weld with a tooth pic under the rib. This 2 part epoxy is dark grey in color when mixed. Then I C-clamped the rib to the barrel with a large wooden clamp. Let it sit over night. I've been using the gun at least once a week since, and it has held up just fine. Wipe all excess epoxy that oozes out when you clamp it down. You can't tell that the rib has been repaired. Total cost of repair was $12.00 and I have plenty of JB Weld left over for future projects.

    ART H.
     
  6. PerazziBigBore

    PerazziBigBore TS Member

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    Steve.. The guys ceracoating the barrel should be able to do this for you.. JB Weld works fine... as does the Locktite gell..
     
  7. Dennis DeVault

    Dennis DeVault Well-Known Member

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    The Loctite 620 is the wrong adhesive for that application. The 620 is made for a different type of bond configeration. I put on several ribs with a Loctite H8600. It is a 2 part epoxy that has very good expansion properties. It was made to bond galvanized material and that is a tough application. The product has to be purchased from an industrial supply house. One place that it can be purchased is R.S. Hughs Company 440-498-8161. Also remember if you do the repair leave a bond line gap of at least .005 so you do not squeese all the material out of the joint causing bond line starvation and setting the adhesive up for a failure. Have a great day.

    Dennis Devault
     
  8. g7777777

    g7777777 TS Supporters TS Supporters

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    Toolmaker- very interesting and detailed tutorial-

    Regards from Iowa

    Gene
     
  9. geneleroy

    geneleroy TS Member

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    The rib on my old 101 field grade came off during a registered shoot at the old club at Pauline, Ks many moons ago. (Pheasantmaster will probably remember that club, he was just a 'young pup' shooting as a junior that day!) I took it to Simmon's in Olathe, Ks. They said it had been 'cold soldered' at the factory, but repaired it with silver solder. I have two 101 Pigeon grade O/U's that each have several thousand rounds fired, neither has come loose and the field grade hasn't been a problem since repaired. If you are anywhere near Olathe, I would recommend Simmon's!
     
  10. Steve W

    Steve W Well-Known Member

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    Thank you guys for all your helpful advises.
     
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