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finish on gun stock

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by RMR, Dec 23, 2009.

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  1. RMR

    RMR Member

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    I have a browning XT Plus trap gun with the standard high gloss polyurethane finish that I hate- scratches, nicks and smudges way too easily for me. Im thinking about refinishing the stock. I like the finish on Perazzi guns. When I have talked to local gunsmiths they have asked me if I want a satin polurethane spay finish or a hand rubbed oil finish - and I really dont know.

    Can anyone help me out- what type of finish is on the Perazzi guns- satin polyurethane or hand rubbed oil finish???


    Thanks
     
  2. short shucker

    short shucker TS Member

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    Hand rubbed oil. The prettiest finish a piece of wood can wear!

    ss
     
  3. spritc

    spritc Active Member

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    Hand rubbed oil can be any where from dull, satin, semi-gloss or gloss, depending upon the process and number of coats of sanding and oil.
     
  4. high 2

    high 2 Member

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    Most Perazzi`s have a sprayed finish. The absolute worst factory finish of all the guns I redo. Any thing you do will be better than it has now. For a satin finish that will show the true beauty of the wood go with a hand rubbed oil. It won`t be as tough as a sprayed, but will look better and not to0 hard to keep looking good. Larry
     
  5. JerryP

    JerryP Active Member

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    I think your Browning has an epoxy finish. Much tougher than any oil finish or polyurethane.
     
  6. Barry C. Roach

    Barry C. Roach Well-Known Member

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    Try using one of those Scotch pads and dull your finish. Experiment with different grades. Since your thinking about refinishing, what do you have to lose?
     
  7. phirel

    phirel TS Member

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    Oil finished are very nice but they offer limited moisture protection to the wood.

    Pat Ireland
     
  8. OldRemFan

    OldRemFan Member

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    I appreciate this thread. I have a Rem 3200 that has spots on the stock that have a "foggy" look. I have been told that it is probably the finish lifting. Anyone out there know for sure what Remington used on these guns for finish. It is original and has not been refinished. I am thinking oil finish, but am looking for the most efficient removal method of what I now have.
     
  9. WarEagle2017

    WarEagle2017 Active Member

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    I guess that I should add to this, and save some of You some grief, although I do not consider Myself a Master Stock refinish I have worked as with Wood all My life which included maybe 12 to 15 Stock refinishing jobs that all came out pretty good ( In a average Man's Opinion ) Well now I WANNA TELL YOU ( please excuse the caps but I want to emphasize the fact ! ) " I did a stock this past summer for a Friend, a Browning Golden Clays First i tried to remove the original finish with a finish remover,, it barley even started to get into this finish, I went to ACE Hardware and bought the more powerful remover, it was No better, back to ACE again, " Thee ( supposedly )Most powerful Remover ever Developed LOL LOL LOL Well after about 3 more applications of this ""complete eradicator"" about 70% of the old finish still remained so I ended up sanding it off and it was No fun, the overall job came out pretty good and My Friend was very pleased with the Job, but where I had most of my trouble was at the checkering Border lines ( Gets tricky around the Checkering ) and a Hell of a lot of work !!!!!

    One thing that I want to add is, if you decide to take off the old finish You will surely fine that there is a stain coloring right into the epoxy finish which when removed along with the epoxy finish to coloring of the wood underneath is a lot nicer looking than with the old finish on, I just redid the one and only i did with TRU-Oil and it looks 100 times better that the old stain finish
     
  10. kik by kolar

    kik by kolar TS Member

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    Can somebody explain to me the process of a "hand rubbed oil finsh"? I have refinished a few stocks before. Useing Tung Oil the only way I could get the satin look was to steel wool the last coat to get the "hand rudded" look.
     
  11. JerryP

    JerryP Active Member

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    congratulations drhuner , You removed a superior finish and lowered the gun's value. Every Golden Clays I have seen has a very nice finish. No way anyone is going to improve on it. Browning is very good at getting the most out of their wood.

    Pat, You are talking about a true oil finish. A lot of guys doing these things think that includes Tru-oil. I would never bother with a true oil finish. As you said, very little protection. Not to mention the many, many, many coats it takes to do any good.


    kik by kolar , A hand rubbed finish is simply rubbing thin oils into the wood rather than applying layers on top of the wood like most modern finishes. Tru-oil is modified with urethane and dries quickly. It is easy to use.
     
  12. KENENT1

    KENENT1 Active Member

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    I have done a couple of tru-oil finishes and I think the came out great.



    tony
     
  13. trapperpg

    trapperpg Member

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    Royal London Oil(RLO) finishes nicer than any other I have used.

    pg
     
  14. OldPshtr

    OldPshtr Member

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    U might try rottenstone mixed with oil and rub the present finish.
    Rottenstone is fine and won't mar or scratch the finish. Should
    dull and remove most of the surface scratches. Pads or fine steel
    wool will probably leave scratches.

    Doyal
     
  15. phirel

    phirel TS Member

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    Tru-Oil can give a nice finish. But, it is not an oil finish. Because it can be put on by hand, it is convenient for people who are not set up to spray on finishes. Oil finished are done with linseed oil (flaxseed oil). Paint, prior to the latex paints, were basically linseed oil, a dryer and a pigment.

    Pat Ireland
     
  16. JerryP

    JerryP Active Member

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    There is also tung oil.
     
  17. Bridger

    Bridger Member

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    Here's a photo of a Browning after it was refinished. The factory finish was dark and covered up most of the figure.You could tell there was good figure there but most of it was hidden. Browning adds a stain to their finish and hides most of mother nature's work. If this refinish hurt the value, I'll eat my shorts.



    [​IMG]
     
  18. OldRemFan

    OldRemFan Member

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    Bridger

    Is this Tru-oil, boiled linseed oil, or what? Looks nice
     
  19. Bridger

    Bridger Member

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    I can't take credit for the refinish. I had a local woodworker who is a shooter and has refinished many gun stocks do the work on this one. He told me he used a product called Wood Life followed by numerous coats of Tru Oil. I'm pretty pleased with it. The other side of the stock actually has even better figure.The stock had seen some careless treatment from its original owner but looks better now than it ever did even when new.
     
  20. HSLDS

    HSLDS Well-Known Member

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    The English 'hand rubbed oil finish' involves boiled linseed oil and a wax (usually Carnauba) and often a drier (usually Japan drier), and a few drops of thinner (usually turpentine).

    The oil and thinner help carry the wax into the wood and then the linseed oil dries to 'seal' the wood along with the wax.

    It can take a hundred coats or more - typically you can do two or three coats per day when you start, but over time perhaps only one per day as it builds up.

    The more coats and the more hand rubbing (you use the heel of the hand) the better and richer the finish.

    Areas with too much wax build up are easily cut back with 0000 steel wool and some of the finish as a lubricant. I use old toothbrushes to keep the checkering clean as I go.

    Once the stock is done you can 'touch it up' with just a coat or two.

    I know it's a lot of work, but they look beyond great when done.

    David D
     
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