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Federal Top Gun loads wanted

Discussion in 'Want to Buy/Trade Threads' started by grntitan, Jun 12, 2011.

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  1. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    I'm wanting to reload the Pink Federal hulls i have one time and then pitch them. I can't find any loads on Alliants site using the components i have. Anybody help with some known recipes using the components i listed below?

    Green Dot

    W209 Primers

    Federal Top Gun hulls

    RXP12, Fig8, WAA12 or WT12 wads

    If none of these wads will work, what would be a good alternative wad using the rest of these listed components? Maybe a wad that could also be used in Remington hulls as well. Wanting 1 1/8 ounce wads.
     
  2. Bernie K

    Bernie K Member

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    Wads 12so for one ounce or 12s3 for ounce and 1/8. Federal or Clay Buster I have been shooting Clay Buster clones for the past 4 years with great results.
     
  3. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    Sorry, i should have said 1 1/8 ounce wads only. I edited the OP.
     
  4. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    MK--You are correct but as i stated, they don't list any loads using the wads i have with W209 primers and Green Dot. I thought maybe someone had loads listed from other reloading manuals using those combinations. I have found Allinats site useful but they raraley list a fraction of the tested load combos. Thanks.
     
  5. Quack Shot

    Quack Shot Active Member

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    From the 1996 Alliant Powder Guide:

    Federal Hi Power Plastic Hulls with Paper base wad.

    Win. 209 Primer Fed. 12S3 Wad 20.0 Gr Green Dot 8,200 PSI 1145fps

    Win. 209 Primer Fed. 12S3 Wad 21.5 Gr Green Dot 8,900 PSI 1200fps

    I've loaded hulls with this data and the velocities were pretty close to what I'd expect from a factory shell listed at those velocities.

    I use Promo or Red Dot instead, but use a different primer. The 12S3 wads work rather well. I don't usually get good results using a wad intended for tapered hulls.
     
  6. School Teacher

    School Teacher Well-Known Member

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    I do not load steel base hulls but I do load the Federal Gold Medal Plastic ribbed hull. The Top Gun and the Gold Medal plastic hulls use the same data.

    I load 19.3 of Green Dot, Claybuster 12S3 clone wad, Nobel Sport 209 primer and 1 1/8 oz of magnum 8's. This load is about 1125 fps and shoots very soft and ink balls targets.

    As the Nobel Sport 209 primer is very similar to a Winchester 209, my load is similar to Quack Shot's, just a little slower and softer. When the Federal Extra Lite shells first came out back in the 1980's, they were at 1125 fps and this is what I try to duplicate.

    The Top Gun hull is straight walled so as Quack Shot says use a wad intended for a straight walled case. These wads would be Federal OEM or clones of the 12S0 for 1 oz., 12S3 for 1 1/8 oz. and 12S4 for 1 1/4 oz.

    Games shooters I know use the Remington RP12 wad for 1 3/8 oz. loads.

    Ed Ward
     
  7. mrskeet410

    mrskeet410 TS Member

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    RXP12 wads don't work well. I used the other wads successfully, but the wad Nazis say you can't.
     
  8. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    MK--Thats exactly what i was looking for. You know i have that Lymans 5th Edition too and even searched it first. I guess i was in the wrong section. After i saw you had posted this info, i went back and checked the book again and sure enough on page 136 the info you provided above is there. Thanks for the help. Maybe time for some seeing glasses. :D
     
  9. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    Well i loaded some of the Pink Federal Top Guns today. I must admit they ran thru my machine quite nicely. The shells also loaded and crimped as good as any. I think this won't be my last go around with the Top Guns.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  10. rennerize

    rennerize Active Member

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    Is that a "black" Pacific loader??
    Don
     
  11. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    Don--Its actaully a Limited Edition Pacific they only give to very special people.

    .

    .

    .

    Ok the truth is, its painted with Hammer Forged look Dark Bronze Rust-Oleum paint. I just can't leave well enough alone. I'm the type of person that has to tinker with everything. I have a custom no-primer alert system under the powder drop station. It will alert me when a shell manages to make it to that station with no primer. The LED light is only on when the primer is vacant. I also had to modify the shell counter to operate off the main shaft as seen on the left of the machine. Of course the shells drop down thru the table and into a container on the shelf under the bench. I actually re-did a Pacific Model 300 in that color and liked it so much i decided to do my DL366 too.

    The Model 300 in the same color.

    [​IMG]


    The very bright LED light lets you know when the primer is missing.

    [​IMG]


    The counter on the left.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. warpspeed

    warpspeed Member

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    Nice looking setup Matt.

    I too have used the Federal Top Gun hulls as reload & pitch but I found that some would not stay crimped. They would pop up after a day or so.

    I do not have that problems with the Rem GCs and since they are equally as plentiful, I use those as my reload & pitch hull of choice.
     
  13. rennerize

    rennerize Active Member

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    Matt I like the no primer warning system, I might put one of those on my Spolar "if you do not have a patent on it".
    Warpspeed, if you use a shorter wad it will not do that.
    Don
     
  14. Quack Shot

    Quack Shot Active Member

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    Nice setup, Matt!

    Just one quick thought about wads. You will likely be fine in warm weather with the "tapered" hull design wads. Before loading tons of ammo for cold weather, you might want to put some in the freezer and see how the consistency is over a chronograph. That's the main reason I use a wad designed for a straight tube hull in Federal hulls. Sometimes the smaller diameter wads work ok and sometimes they don't. Had a lot of budget wads that did not do all that well in several loads. Plugged in the Federal wads and the consistency was much better in the cold. When a manufacturer or other data source does their testing, they usually list loads that were tested within a standard temperature range. Just because they list it, does not mean it will work well, or perform well under all conditions a shooter may use them under.

    Call me a wad Nazi if you wish. I've spent many hours with a chrongraph with frozen loads and making comparisons with normal temp loads, and loads using different components. I'm cheap and if I can use a budget wad with full confidence, I will. I load the Federal or Federal clones in straight tube hulls quite a bit. I have confidence in them. I didn't have much confidence in the orange clone stuff I tried one time. Loaded several boxes with various other components and had dismal results at low temps. Some other tapered hull wads were just poor. These orange wads were dismal and I would not bother to experiment to make them work. Same components, except the Federal style wads and the problems were resolved. Just my not so humble opinion and observations.
     
  15. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    Quack--PM sent
     
  16. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    Don--Help yourself to the warning light system however i'm not interested in making anymore. I could care a less about stealing the idea. Heck if you can make money on it, go for it. I'm already working on my second $million anyway. I gave up on the first $million years ago. :)D)

    Here is a couple more pics of the system
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. timb99

    timb99 Well-Known Member

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    Nice looking setup. So you're just pointing an LED light up into the powder drop station, and if you can see the light (so to speak) don't pull the handle?

    Is that a microswitch I see turning the light on only when the lower die is at the bottom of travel?
     
  18. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    timb--Thats pretty much the idea. I have another one i made that works when the primer is in place. It actuates a micro pressure switch. If no primer is in place the light comes on(mounted on top of the machine). I went back to this design as it was more reliable and twice as simple. The micro pressure switch was tough to keep adjusted and i wasn't fond of having the live primer work the pressure switch. I kept thinking of the what ifs. As you stated the light is only on when the casting is the lower position. It wasn't necessary but then again most of my inventions or ideas are that way. Its called bordem.
     
  19. timb99

    timb99 Well-Known Member

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    I like it.

    The pink Federals look good too, but like others have said, I'd use straight-wall wads, and I would pitch the hulls after one reload.
     
  20. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    This was my first design. It worked just fine but the up and down motion of the plate broke the wires over time. It ran off a 9 volt. The newer one runs off 110AC and use a transformer from a phone charger. The curly spring wire in the new models can handle the up and down motion without breaking the wires. The red box below was a clear plastic CCI .22LR box i painted red. LOL I'm one of those guys that see something in junk.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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