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Done with a spray can

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by luvtrapguns, Oct 12, 2011.

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  1. luvtrapguns

    luvtrapguns Well-Known Member

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    I HAVE BROUGHT THIS OLD POST OF MINE TO THE TOP IN RESPONSE TO QUESTIONS ASKED BY StansCustoms.

    Refinishing can be done with surprising results with a little practice and patience. The pictures below are of a stock I quickly refinished using materials I bought at WalMart. Minwax Helmsman Spar Poly (this is clear gloss, also available in clear satin) and assorted grades of sandpaper. Total cost was about $11 and one spray can will easily do three or more stocks. Marc

    <a href="http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/jj271/mbunk/Refinished%20stock/?action=view¤t=RefWood010.jpg" target="_blank"> RefWood010.jpg </a>

    <a href="http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/jj271/mbunk/Refinished%20stock/?action=view¤t=RefWood009.jpg" target="_blank"> RefWood009.jpg </a>

    <a href="http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/jj271/mbunk/Refinished%20stock/?action=view¤t=RefWood007.jpg" target="_blank"> RefWood007.jpg </a>

    <a href="http://s274.photobucket.com/albums/jj271/mbunk/Refinished%20stock/?action=view¤t=RefWood008.jpg" target="_blank"> RefWood008.jpg </a>
     
  2. Texas Yankee

    Texas Yankee Member

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    I did the same thing with my 30 year old Wingmaster roughed the stock with 220 grit sandpaper the sprayed 6 very thin coats with Winwax high gloss poly varnish looks like it came out of the box.
     
  3. Jim Porter

    Jim Porter Well-Known Member

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    As said in the South---YOU DUN GOOD!!!
     
  4. MKillian

    MKillian TS Member

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    Looks like a Browning stock; did you try to remove the existing finish or did you sand and prep it and over coat it?

    Mike K
     
  5. Remstar311

    Remstar311 Member

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    Looks great!
     
  6. luvtrapguns

    luvtrapguns Well-Known Member

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    Mike K,

    Did not remove all of original finish. Had to lower comb so there was bare wood in that area plus a few areas that had scratches/dings/dents. Carefully masked so as to not get finish in checkering. Thanks, Marc
     
  7. Catpower

    Catpower Molon Labe TS Supporters

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    Looks good amazing what a person can do
     
  8. bonzai272

    bonzai272 Member

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    Do you mind outlining all the steps you took? I have an old 870TB stock I want to refinish like this. Curious about what grit sandpaper you used and in which order, how many coats of the spray wax, time inbetween coats, etc. And so you just masked off the checkered areas with painters tape and left them as is, right?

    Thanks, looks great!
     
  9. SD Trap Family

    SD Trap Family TS Supporters TS Supporters

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    WOW, looks great.

    I too, like Bonzai272, would like to hear more about each step in the process.

    Bud
     
  10. ABH

    ABH Member

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    Great job Marc. You have just inspired me to refinish an old Citor combo I just purchased. I hope it comes out 1/2 as good as yours did.

    ART H.
     
  11. jbmi

    jbmi Well-Known Member

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    Old woodworkers trick. Now take 00000 steel wool and Johnson paste wax, rub wax into the steel wool and rub it in going with the grain.
    It will make the finish ultra smooth, taking out all the little micro grains of grit you feel when you rub the stock. It will also give a great protective coating while taking the very high gloss down to a really nice even gloss finish.
    Be careful to apple the same presure on all areas, light presure is all you need. Don't rub to hard but just hard enough to smooth the finish.
    Also, place painters tape over the checkering while you're doing the rubbing.
     
  12. luvtrapguns

    luvtrapguns Well-Known Member

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    Process went something like this: 1)Clean wax, oil, and grease from surface. 2)Modify fit to my requirements. This leaves a section of bare wood. 3)Sand areas that are scratched. I started with 320 grit and finished sanding lightly all over with 400 prior to spraying. 4)Spray three coats of finish to bare wood areas(I did not use a sealer or grain filler) according to instructions on can. 5)Give sufficient time to cure. I allowed three days. 6)Lightly sand sprayed areas with 400 grit. Grain at bare wood areas will not be completely filled while spayed over original finish surfaces will look like glass. 7)Repeat steps 4, 5, & 6 as many times as it takes to fill grain of sanded surfaces. 8)Give a final light sanding all over (except checkering) with 400 grit. 9)Wipe down entire stock with alcohol using a lint free cloth. 10)very carefully take time to mask checkering. Use painters tape. Align tape with the very edge of checkering outlines. In some areas I had to cut tape along edges with an x-acto knife. 11)Wipe down entire stock with a tack rag. 12)Spray entire stock with three coats of finish. It is an art to apply enough finish to get an even, wet, glosy appearance all over without causing "runs or sags". 13)Hang to dry and leave alone for at least three days. DONE

    jbmi; There are no rough spots to eye or feel. I sprayed on a morning after a soakng rain. This kept down the dust. To get the surface gloss effect you mention is something I have used and I like it. Using the MinWax clear satin comes very cose to that look. I also like the very glossy look as long as it is free of defect.

    Thanks to all for the positve responses. Marc
     
  13. MKillian

    MKillian TS Member

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    Marc...

    As a side note, if you plan to rub or wax the finish, wait at least 30 days; 60 is better and 90 is great. Solvent-based polyurethane is dry to the touch in a few days but it takes a month (usually more) to cure completely, especially exterior stuff like marine poly (spar varnish). You'll still be able to smell the solvent on the surface in a month. That's why water-borne poly is more popular now for refinishing home floors.

    Mike K
     
  14. lighthouse

    lighthouse Member

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    Has anyone tried the 2K clearcoat spray cans. Check out the link above

    George Olsen
     
  15. GW22

    GW22 Active Member

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    Very nice work, Marc.

    -Gary
     
  16. krieghoff80

    krieghoff80 Member

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    Nice boat!
     
  17. JACK

    JACK Well-Known Member Supporting Vendor

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    You ain't gonna catch no catfish with the boat on the trailer.
     
  18. kraiza

    kraiza Active Member

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    Look very nice.
     
  19. mike campbell

    mike campbell Active Member

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    "As a side note, if you plan to rub or wax the finish, wait at least 30 days; 60 is better and 90 is great. Solvent-based polyurethane is dry to the touch in a few days but it takes a month (usually more) to cure completely, especially exterior stuff like marine poly (spar varnish)." Mike K.

    Mike makes a good point. If you lay your poly-finished stock down on a linen towel overnight, you're likely to see the imprint of the weave in the finish the next day. Stand it up for another day, and the imprint will disappear. You'll be OK as long as you treat it gently for a few weeks. Also as Mike hinted, a handy rule of thumb with any finish is to avoid rubbing out as long as you can smell it.

    Nothing wrong with a poly finish but, for more instant gratification, you might consider spray lacquer the next time. A lacquer finish can be rubbed out in just a few days and it's what allows stockers to turn out finished and checkered stocks in a very short time. I recently restocked a trap gun and went from raw, bare wood to checkered and shootable in 2 weeks.
     
  20. luvtrapguns

    luvtrapguns Well-Known Member

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    Total time for my refinish was about two weeks. Most of that was waiting for the poly to cure between coats. Plans are to wait another week or so before installing on gun.

    Is a lacquer finish still avaible? EPA has been pretty hard on many of the older finishes. Lacquer is definitely nice to work with but scratches and deteriorates much more easily. Marc
     
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