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Dog Trainer Opinions

Discussion in 'Off Topic Threads' started by fssberson, Dec 7, 2012.

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  1. fssberson

    fssberson Active Member

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    I have been out of the dog training business for many years. Had a Dogtra E- Collar that needed continous repairs... so this brand is out. WHAT BRAND OF E-COLLAR DO YOU RECOMMEND??? Use is to train an Australian Shepherd who is biting. Features wanted: Close in range, but powerful [need to get his attention]. Nick button, adjustable strength, rechargeable, under $250 [or close]. Any recommnedatios?? Fred
     
  2. pyrdek

    pyrdek Well-Known Member

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    I had good luck with a SportDog 800 on a Husky that really tuned in to the beeper so much that he only got the lowest level of eight available and he has been an darling angel since then. He is with my daughter (it is her dog but we "babysat" for about seven months) at St. Kitts now but he is a perfect "gentleman" off leash which is not very common for a husky since they like to run(away).

    I also just received a replacement collar for another Sportdog collar, a 400 model that had a receiver problem and was long out of warranty. $45 and return of the broken collar brought a brand new collar and charger to us.
     
  3. psfive

    psfive Member

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    Tri-Tronics is the only way to go. They are the leader in the field when it comes electronic dog training collars. Paul in GINebraska.
     
  4. Pocatello

    Pocatello Active Member

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    I agree - Tritronics is the way to go. It's by far the most often used among professional and accomplished amateur retriever field trial trainers. I use the Pro 500 G3 collar, for which I paid about twice your desired price (new). The Collar Clinic, website above, lists reconditioned 200 LR models for $150. That model will do everything you ask.
     
  5. jawingsr

    jawingsr Member

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    pre owned re-conditioned tri-tronics from there website, best value, save $$$ !!!
     
  6. fssberson

    fssberson Active Member

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    I just ordered the Tri Tronics Sport Basic G3 [1/2 mile range] for $239. Just need a close-in "attention getter". Need the strength - not sure what it will take to stop the "attack" type biting. Rescued him out of the county animal control from "death row" for this type of behavior. Other than this, he is a real sweety [elegant coat] and formed a strong bond with the family. Great protection if I can teach him to bark and hold and stop the bite and bark. Thanks for the info. Fred
     
  7. birdogs

    birdogs TS Member

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    Match the collar to its intended use. Determine if you need a beeper. Determine if you need long range capability (probably not). Decide among the half dozen or so manufacturers. Determine how you will use it to correct the unwanted behavior or to re-inforce desired behavior.

    IMPORTANT! Virtually every manufacturer prints in the instructions NOT to use stimulation if a dog is fighting. You must decide if your intended use mimics fighting and thus the appropriateness of using an e-collar.

    I have 5 different colars from 3 different manufacturers but I use them on big-running birdogs. Still I find that none of them have all the features I want in a single system, hence the 5 collars. Your intended use is less demanding so almost any collar should do. You can even try to Lion Country Supply proprietary model. I did and it worked fine. My objection was its limited range which does not seen to be required in your application.
     
  8. Pocatello

    Pocatello Active Member

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    Fred

    Whatever you do, don’t put the collar on the dog, wait until he is biting, and then burn him. The proper use of the collar is to reinforce commands and behaviors already learned, with the dog knowing that you can reinforce your command immediately even though he is out of reach. An unexpected burn during an attack will likely escalate the attack drastically, with the dog interpreting the burn as the victim attacking back.

    I have two Chesapeakes. The male, Rocky, is just under 80 pounds and not quite three years old. The female, Lexie, will turn six months Monday and is about 60 pounds. My wife brought back some rawhide chews for them from the store last week. They are about 8” long, 1” thick, and tightly rolled. I tried to cut one in half for them but could hardly score it with a heavy, sharp knife, so I just gave them each a whole one. Rocky had his completely gone in under 30 minutes, while Lexie took about 45. She has only had her adult teeth a few weeks. The point I’m trying to make is that they could do very serious damage in a short time in a real attack.

    I suggest using the collar first on commands already known. One of the first should be “No!”. Wait until he is doing something he shouldn’t and knows he shouldn’t (like getting on the furniture, digging, whatever), say “No!”, and nick him with the collar. Do it every time until he learns you mean it and can enforce it. It often helps to use other enforcement means first. For example, with Lexie a wiffle ball bat was very useful for “No!” before she was introduced to the collar. Once he has learned what “No!” means and that disregarding it leads to unpleasant consequences, use it immediately at the first sign of any aggressive behavior. Don’t wait or an actual bite or nip. He must learn that aggression on his part will not be tolerated!
     
  9. psfive

    psfive Member

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    Pocatello Said this and he is dead on correct.

    I suggest using the collar first on commands already known. One of the first should be “No!”. Wait until he is doing something he shouldn't and knows he shouldn't (like getting on the furniture, digging, whatever), say “No!”, and nick him with the collar. Do it every time until he learns you mean it and can enforce it. It often helps to use other enforcement means first. For example, with Lexie a wiffle ball bat was very useful for “No!” before she was introduced to the collar. Once he has learned what “No!” means and that disregarding it leads to unpleasant consequences, use it immediately at the first sign of any aggressive behavior. Don’t wait or an actual bite or nip. He must learn that aggression on his part will not be tolerated!

    These collars are very good tools once the operator learns how to use them.

    Paul in GINebraska
     
  10. fssberson

    fssberson Active Member

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    Guys: You are dead on. My exact plan. I just got old and don't have the energy to get out of my chair and make the correction. The Aussie will be surprised and stop training me. I had springers for 40 years and they are so bidable. The aussie is a knuckle head... just to darn smart. Regards: Fred
     
  11. kcbullets

    kcbullets Member

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    Tri-tronics Sport Basic G3 for your use. Cant beat them.
     
  12. birdogs

    birdogs TS Member

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    Simply stated, think of the e-collar as a long pair of arms. This means that you can enforce a command even though the dog is out or reach. Make certain tha the dog knows what you want BEFORE you shock him. Otherwias he will become confused and may even escalate his unwanted behaviors.
     
  13. W.P.T.

    W.P.T. TS Member

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    Can any body recommend a good book for basic dog training ..? Something that gives you hints and tricks to teach a new dog old tricks ... WPT ... (YAC) ...
     
  14. krakadawn

    krakadawn TS Member

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    Google Mike Lardy or Evan Graham for reading/video resorces including everything you wanted to know about e collar implementation and use.
     
  15. X Trap 2

    X Trap 2 TS Member

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    WPT....I bought Dog Training for Dummies. I have no dogs now and just got it for the read. Ray
     
  16. Shotgun Specialties

    Shotgun Specialties Active Member

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    Does anyone have any use for the the bird launcers, sizes from small quail, chukars pheasants and all kinds of DunKars. They were made by Tri-Trinic for about 345. each without the (electronic releases and being repaired now). Let me know if you have any interest and I'll post the pic's and elecrtonics, by Tri-Trinonics also. Thanks, Doug, 513-403-2522
     
  17. birdogs

    birdogs TS Member

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    Many dog training books and videos begin too late in the dog's life. For example, I start "desensitizing" the pup to loud sounda when it is about 3 months old. I have found that this is the best way to keep it from becoming gun-shy. Many books start this process with a blank pistol when the pup is 6 months old or even older. By that time, t5he pup may already have had an unpleasant experience with loud noises and may already be gun-shy or on the verge of it.

    I'll give you one "trick" right now. When correcting a pup, especially with an e-collar, do not look at him or make eye contact. That will only make him associate the correction with you and not with the transgression which caused the shock. And if the dog becomes frightened by an unexpected loud sound, DO NOT, try to comfort it. That only reinforces the fear. Ignore it and walk away. DO NOT MAKE EYE CONTACT!
     
  18. Pocatello

    Pocatello Active Member

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    I absolutely want the dog to associate the correction with me. I gave a command, he ignored it, he paid the price!
     
  19. birdogs

    birdogs TS Member

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    I am glad that you can change the laws of nature. In the real world, if a young dog comes to associate punishment with YOU, he likely is or will become a blinker. It is different with an older dog who knows you well and even knows your facial expressions and tone of voice. By then you have developed a "relationship" and he is used to you and trusts you, at least somewhat.

    Try this - extend your had palm down over your dog's head as if to pet him. Does he shy away, even a bit? My dogs don't. Why? Because they associate pleasant things with my touch. THAT'S what you really want, not an automaton who obeys only out of fear. Remember all dogs, even the very best champions screw up from time to time. How YOU handle that is key to a happy relationship between dog and hunter.

    Do you know how hard it is to break up a dog fight? Well, my 75 pound Setter was intentionally rolled by a large Pointer. He got up with blood in his eye and started to go after the Pointer. I was able to stop him with my voice alone and thus avoid a real donnybrook. Why? Because we are buddies and he trusts me. Yes, he gets corrected from time to time but only with my voice because we have a long-term relationship and he TRUSTS me.
     
  20. YOTESLAYER

    YOTESLAYER Member

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    When I shock my beagles, its because they are doing something I dont like or want them to do. I want them to trust that when I "say" something I know best for them, if they dont listen they get a tone or very low dosage of juice. I want them to associate things like deer, cats, coon or any other off game with the juice. I want them to think the electricity came from those animals not me. Absolutley do not let the dog know that it came from you, this will not get you where you want to be with handling commands or behavior problems. When my dogs chase deer I smoke them with everything the collar has for a very short time, and never say a word. About the third time you hit them they start to get it.

    As far as a dog that bites, shoot him or risk financial ruin, your choice.
     
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