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Dodge gas useage

Discussion in 'Off Topic Threads' started by halfmile, Sep 13, 2009.

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  1. halfmile

    halfmile Well-Known Member

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    Put the 22 inch back on. Or change the differential. BTW I had a friend with a new 360 Dodge who couldn't stand the bad mileage so much he traded it immediately for a Dakota, which was a little better.

    I still can't figure out how my Buick gets 32 and my Chev PU gets 13. That's uphill, downhill, head or tail wind, with or without trailer. UGH.

    HM

    HM
     
  2. Straight99

    Straight99 Member

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    Fill your tires to the pressure listed on the tire, not the pressure listed in the owners manual. Replace the differntial fluid with synthetic. Use synthetic oil in the engine. And if you can find it synthetic oil in the transmission. I was getting around 15 MPG and after I did this I am getting around 20 MPG in my Chevy K1500.
     
  3. markdenis

    markdenis TS Member

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    JONO2

    I have the exact same truck with almost the exact mileage that is on yours. I have checked the mileage several times it has never checked less than 18 mpg. I use it mostly to pull my 20 ft bass boat and it still gets around 16-17 mpg.

    It doesn't make sense you get that bad mpg and I get great mileage with the same truck. I don't have the answer, but I bet someone can help yours get better with the right advise or repairs.

    Mark Rounds
     
  4. al3526

    al3526 TS Member

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    had a 2002 1500 with 360 v 8. got around 10mpg. put dual exhaust, fresh air intake and a chip in it for about 400$. then had better sound and power and 13 mpg. al
     
  5. recurvyarcher

    recurvyarcher Well-Known Member

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    It has a lot to do with the way you drive it, too. Don't brake going downhill so that you have to accelerate going uphill. Coast to the stoplight instead of driving up to it and braking. Check out an article on hyper-miling, and learn some techniques (although some of the things that are advocated are too extreme for me).
     
  6. Quack Shot

    Quack Shot Active Member

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    EPA Estimated Mileage does not mean that is what you can expect to get. It is what that model did on a structured course of driving in a well regulated test. If it is a spec of 14 mpg "combined", you are in the ball bark, since that figure includes a combination of "in town" and "highway" driving conditions. If you've ever heard the term "Your Mileage May Vary", that's where it comes from. Driving "in town" can really kill the mileage, especially of you do a lot of idling. If you were on the highway, I'd expect that you would get a bit more than 10 mpg. If the vehicle is running right and the "check engine" light is not on, there are a few tweaks you can do, but not a lot to increase mileage unless you are a calibration engineer. Like Devi said, the way you drive will make a difference too. That's a sad fact of life for me as well. I had some titanium parts installed in my right leg in order to get the pedal down harder and faster. :)
     
  7. Ahab

    Ahab Well-Known Member

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    What is the rear end ratio?

    Some trucks were built with "highway" gearing and others with "town" gears!

    BIG difference in gas milage!
     
  8. racer

    racer TS Member

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    You need to fill the tank, write down the mileage- refill the tank and then calculate the miles driven by the gallons of fuel. The gas guage isn't going to tell you anything..... Dan
     
  9. timberfaller

    timberfaller Well-Known Member

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    One other thing to check, if the truck came from the factory with 17's and it has 22's your mileage odometor will be off. If you have a GPS check your milage with it first.

    Second if you live where you don't have to have emission checked, get rid of the cataliyic converters if you can. If your O 2 senscor is in front of the cats, you can remove them with out messing with the computer.

    There is a company in TX that makes Oxygen foolers if you need them, I think the companys name is Dallas Mustang. They make them for ford rigs and others.

    Good luck
     
  10. Husky44

    Husky44 Active Member

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    I would bet that the previous owner had the chassis module reprogrammed for the 22’s (for the speedometer). You may need to have the truck programmed back to the stock tire size then test the mileage.

    Domenic
     
  11. Leo

    Leo Well-Known Member

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    The Standard axle ratio, with the standard sized tires, were selected by the engineers to give the best all around compromise of power and mileage. Don't think for a minute that the engineers do not know what works. The EPA has spent the last 20 years busting the automakers butts over mileage and and emissions. Of course, the normal maintenance such as air filter, spark plugs, tire pressure all still apply. Unless it is plugged up, the Cat Converter does not hurt the mileage. I had one fail on my Dakota and actually paid to replace it, and the mileage returned. (aftermarket unit, about $120 installed) The Oxygen sensor (about $40) can stop putting out signal. When it does, the fuel injection defaults to a 50/50 duty cycle which is usually richer than the engine needs. Having worked for Chrysler for 10 years, I hate to admit it, but I never had a Dodge that got the mileage of a comparable Ford. That includes sub compact, midsized, full sized and trucks. My current ride, a Mercury Grand Marquis, is over 20 mpg combined city/highway, and I worry when it returns less than 25 mpg on a trip. My Taurus returns slightly better mpg figures than that. Neither my little Dodge Stratus or my Dakota could touch those figures.
    Your Dodge should do better than 10mpg, but it will never be what you would call a high mileage vehicle. The guy that put the big rims on it may have also installed a "performance" chip in the injection brain. Returning things to stock will be a good starting point.
    Good Luck
     
  12. Husky44

    Husky44 Active Member

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    The truck is also still covered under the 3/36 factory warranty, go get it re-flashed for free.
     
  13. Captain Bud

    Captain Bud TS Member

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    We had a chevy pickup at a cycle shop I drove for. I couldn't understand why I was getting 10 mpg at normal freeway cruising speeds from the shop to the warehouse. I checked the glovebox and found that the truck had been ordered with 4.56 rear gears. The truck was built for medium speed heavy towing!

    Cruising at 70- 75 mph the engine drank fuel. Dropped the speed to 50-55 mph and the truck got 14 mpg.

    I told the company to purchase a diesel next time with the 3.55 or 3.23 gear set if available.

    PMS
     
  14. Hauxfan

    Hauxfan Well-Known Member

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    What Husky44 said!

    Hauxfan!
     
  15. TOOLMAKER 251

    TOOLMAKER 251 Active Member

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    Just remember to remove the chip/tuner when you bring it back to Dodge, because if you don't your existing warranty will be voided.
     
  16. racer

    racer TS Member

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    One other thing to keep in mind- having "22's" doesn't mean the outside diameter is any larger than the 17's. Most of the Dodges I've owned have the axle ratio on a sticker somewhere- most in the glove box. All the talk about axle ratio's, taking the cats off, putting in synthetic oils, etc is non-sense. Would anyone believe the car companies wouldn't put sythetic oils in if it was really worth 5 mpg as suggested in the comments above? Have fun, Dan
     
  17. TOOLMAKER 251

    TOOLMAKER 251 Active Member

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    Racer, I agree with you on the synthetic oil vs straight dino oil. I run them both in my diesel trucks with no difference in mileage. The only thing I benefit with the synthetic is better starts when its near zero in the winter.
     
  18. GunDr

    GunDr Well-Known Member

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    At one time, a metal tag could be found on the axle with the ratio stated. There's one on my old '89 Ramcharger.
     
  19. AveragEd

    AveragEd Well-Known Member

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    "The truck is also still covered under the 3/36 factory warranty, go get it re-flashed for free. "

    Warranties cover defects, not altered components.

    Ed
     
  20. cmptrwz1

    cmptrwz1 TS Member

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    What I would first check is to see if the truck came from the factory with a towing package with the 3.7 engine in it. They would do two things to get it to tow 5000 lb loads which would be average. They would put 4.10 rearend gears in it and they would disable the overdrive feature so it would not use the lock up torque converter for overdrive. This way it would not burn up the transmission while towing. This is how it would come stock from the factory. If you can have the computer reprogrammed by the dealer and set it to a truck that does not have the towing package, you will pickup some mileage. The over drive feature will start working and the lock up converter will engauge. Now to compensate for 4.10 gears, you would have to put on larger diameter tires other than the factory tires that the truck came with. The larger the outside diameter of the tire, the longer it takes to travel in one revolution, the farther it will go and this would reduce the RPM. This also would make the speedometer read slower but the truck will be going faster so you would have to figure out what the difference would be and the speed of the vehicle. Then you would have to change the speedometer gear accordingly. The parts department could help you in that aspect.
     
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