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Coyote hunting novice need a little info

Discussion in 'Off Topic Threads' started by 686beretta, Feb 17, 2013.

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  1. 686beretta

    686beretta TS Member

    Jan 29, 1998
    I'm thinking about trying to kill a few coyotes who are bothering a friends cattle, never hunted them. I have a few questions:
    1. I'm thinking of buying a Fox Pro call in the $200.00 range any recommendations?
    2. What about buying a mouth call are they needed or not? Any thoughts?
    3. Any recommendations on shooting sticks? I will need this.

    Thanks everybody!!!!
  2. Huntin'Fool

    Huntin'Fool Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2010
  3. wireguy

    wireguy TS Member

    Jan 29, 1998
    All the serious coyote hunters say this: Don't miss. If you miss a shot on a coyote you will probably never get another shot at that one. They learn that fast.
  4. Brian in Oregon

    Brian in Oregon Well-Known Member

    Jan 29, 1998
    Deplorable Bitter Clinger in Liberal La La Land
    <i>1. I'm thinking of buying a Fox Pro call in the $200.00 range any recommendations?</i>

    My advice for anyone getting a Foxpro or any other system is to make sure you can put your own MP3 sounds into it. My system has proprietary sounds, as did most older systems. Those days are gone and there is no excuse for getting a system that either precludes your own sounds or does not have an external input jack for them. See the link for a site with lots of free sounds and even instructions on making your own system.


    <i>2. What about buying a mouth call are they needed or not? Any thoughts?</i>

    Absolutely get mouth calls. At a minimum they will serve as a backup in case something goes wrong with your electronic caller. You didn't say where you resided, but regardless, click on the link below, then scroll down about halfway to Ed Sceery's Regional Predator Call Kits. Chose the Western, Eastern or Northern kit. No fuss, no muss, no head scratching. Everything you need to get started with mouth calling is there including DVD instructions. I've used one of these sets for well over two decades, and gave my son one as well.


    <i>3. Any recommendations on shooting sticks? I will need this.</i>

    Why? Is your rifle excessively heavy, are you physically having stability issues, or are the coyotes at very long range?

    If the rifle is very heavy, well, you've just found out why many people who have a dedicated coyote rifle get a lightweight or medium weight barrel.

    If you have issues holding steady, then yes, you'll need support. But that also adds to the movement you'll be making as you try to use an electronic call or especially a mouth call.

    If you get a shooting stick, look into the ones that drop their leg via a grip release. These set up quickly. Twin sticks are traditional, but require fiddling and you want to keep movement to a minimum.


    Other tips.

    Facemask and gloves. I don't care if it is bajillion degrees out. Wear them. White skin especially stands out like a beacon and a coyote will spot your face and especially hand movement easily.

    Neutral scents. Get some unscented laundry soap that has no phosphates in it. No fabric softener. Use unscented deodorant, soap and shampoo. Don't smoke. Wash the sweat out of your clothes between hunts. Coyotes have a keen sense of smell.

    Camo is not required. But in my opinion it can buy you some extra seconds. Whatever you do, do not wear blue denim, like jeans. Coyotes see blue very well and blue is not a ground color. You'll stand out like a sore thumb. I also prefer not to wear true greens, because coyotes do not see green. Instead they see it as various shades of gray or white. Not a problem if you are in front of true green foliage which will also be gray, but, most foliage is olive green or yellow green. These two colors look yellow or tan to a coyote. Red also looks yellow or tan to a coyote.


    This is a comparison of human vision to coyote vision. We have three color cones and some b&w rods. Coyotes only two color cones, but many more b&w rods for low light conditions. A coyote basically sees blue or yellow.


    This is a photo of my son Sean and myself, with his deer and a coyote I shot.


    This is the same pic after being Photoshopped with a filter that simulates the canine vision spectrum. This is how coyotes and dogs view the same scene.

    Notice how the green foliage has either turned yellow, tan, or some shade of gray or white. Again, coyotes do not see green. Olive green is not a true green. It is actually a mixture of black and yellow. That's why it is turning yellow or tan in this simulation. True greens will turn gray or white.

    Also notice how well the coyote and deer blend in when simulating coyote vision.

    See how the very light tan, almost yellow, gun stock blends in.

    My son took off his camo jacket for the pic. But notice how my Mossy Oak Breakup jacket has turned into various shades of gray. It stands out against the tans and yellows in the background. Frankly, if you're going to get camo, my suggestion is to look at the tan duck blind colors. I think coyote hunters need a major rethink on camo colors.

    Don't get discouraged if you don't think you called a coyote in. You may well have but the coyote may have seen or smelled you and decided to leave.

    Try to keep the wind into your face, but be aware this invites a coyote to circle you. If at all possible, hunt with a friend who can cover your back. I've had coyotes come up behind me before. Like within a few feet. A friend of mine got a wet nose on the back of his neck one night. It flat out rattled him. He never went night hunting again.

    Keep still. Make as few movements as possible. Contrary to popular belief, coyotes do not have sharp vision. But they are keenly aware of any movement and will spot it. And speaking of the resolving power of coyote vision, fancy camo with very fine delicate patterns is a waste. They will blur into a solid color for coyotes. Coarser patterns work better.

    If a coyote is coming in, let it come. Be ready. Shoot when it stops. If it is waaay out there, try to coax it in. If it hangs up and won't come in, then try to take the shot. If you miss, they quit country pretty danged fast. About 35 mph. (I actually had one on police radar, but that's another story from long ago.) If the coyote is only a couple hundred yards or so out, do not be tempted to hold off fur when leading them. Coyotes coming directly towards you will usually not do a 180. They'll generally turn 90 one direction or the other and then arc away. If you miss, you will have educated that coyote. Coyotes make one mistake, and they're either dead or they never make that mistake again.

    If a coyote spots you and runs, jam the rodent squeaker in your mouth and start blowing hard or even whistle loudly. Sometimes they will stop in their tracks, confused, especially the young ones. You'll have to be fast, but you might get a few seconds to get a shot off.

    Don't crank up the volume immediately on the caller. Start low to moderate in case there is a nearby coyote. cranking it up all the way can spook a close coyote. Turn it up after a couple of minutes. Make sounds for about a minute on and at least a minute off. Most coyotes will come within the first 20 minutes. It diminishes on a sliding scale from there. If you move to a new stand, try to move at least a mile in open country. Coyotes will come in from a half mile radius or more under good sound conditions. Don't overcall an area. And if the dying rabbit call does not work, use something else. Kittens mewling works well in bobcat country. And canine pups in distress works well in the spring.
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