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Cold Blue Recommendations

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by timb99, May 25, 2010.

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  1. timb99

    timb99 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I know cold blue is no substitute for taking it to someone to do the real deal, but I have a "project" gun that I want to do the "functional" mods to before I do the "cosmetic" mods.

    For now, I just want to touch up a big ole' bare spot on top of the receiver.

    Suggestions?
     
  2. hmb

    hmb Well-Known Member

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    Use some wet and dry paper to get rid of any oxidation, use 320 grit or finer. Then use some rubbing alcohol to get rid of any oil. Apply the cold blue using a 0000 steel wool pad. Apply several coats, the last coat use a cue tip. Then rinse off with water and apply oil. HMB
     
  3. Tron

    Tron Supporting Vendor Supporting Vendor

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    The best I've found is "Formula 44-40". It can be a bit hard to find though.
     
  4. timb99

    timb99 Well-Known Member

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    Looks like they have 44/40 at Brownells
     
  5. ou.3200

    ou.3200 Well-Known Member

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    There is a cold blue called Vans that works well as does Oxpho-Blue from Brownell's. A step up from cold blue is the old Belgian Blue that used to be sold by Herter's. I think Brownell's sells a formulation of it now. It requires boiling water in a tank containing sufficient water to cover the parts being blued.
     
  6. maclellan1911

    maclellan1911 TS Member

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    I have had my best like with shooterssolutions.com metal prep is key
     
  7. edthearcher

    edthearcher Member

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    go to a web site called www.BlueWonder.us greatest cold blueing i ever used
     
  8. W.R.Buchanan

    W.R.Buchanan Member

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    For touch ups I use Birchwood Caseys Super Blue. If there is any rust present then use steel wool not sand paper to remove. Degreasing is key,,, alcohol or brake clean type degreasers work good, but if you use alcohol make sure to wait for a while until all of the water is dryed up or wipe it off. Alcohol sucks moisture out of the air and the evaporation makes the gun colder than the dew point and you will get condensation on it as a result.

    I use this stuff all the time and the Super Blue Product is much better than the regular stuff they sell. It doesn't have that weird smell that it has had in the past so they finally figured something out. I have things I blued 40 years ago that still have the weird smell.

    If you steel wool the area after it is blued you end up removing most of the color, that's why you need to repeat the process several times to get the darkness you want. Use less steel wool each time. You can actually wipe off the excess colorant with a paper towel on the final coats.

    It is really necessary to "soak the area" with oil for like 24 hrs. after you finish. The oil penetrates and seals the color in. If you don't get the metal sealed then the color fades to a brown color, also if the part gets alot of hand contact it will turn brown no matter what.

    This stuff works great for touch ups or small items, but it is no substitute for the real thing.

    I have tried the Oxpho-blue product from Brownells and I have to say it is not what it is cracked up to be. I have had very poor results, and have tried a bunch of different ways of applying it including the instructions on the bottle. I can't seem to get it to work very well or repeatably. Luckily I only got a small bottle to try it.

    Hope this helps

    Randy
     
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