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Checking CVR Mic`s ??

Discussion in 'Uncategorized Threads' started by Ljutic111, Jan 21, 2008.

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  1. Ljutic111

    Ljutic111 TS Member

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    What is the proper way to check the Canterbury Wired system microphones . Trial and error is always the alternative but when I`m re-doing the connectors and replacing the covers with better ones , I would like to reduce my work . Also when one is bad , what can you replace it with instead of purchasing a new complete mic .
     
  2. halfmile

    halfmile Well-Known Member

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    Use a transistor radio earphone jack. If you make an adaptor cable it's easier, but I just had a mini phone plug on one end cable and used clip leads to connect to the speaker, cord, and all. A male connector to plug in would be nice but I would just stick a piece of solder in the holes.

    A more elaborate test kit is fine, depending on cost.

    Too bad the original equipment cable is such garbage. replace with a low temp SJO by Carol and you should be smiling. Forget about the shielded cable, not necessary unless you have a strong source of RFI in the neighborhood.

    HM
     
  3. spitter

    spitter Well-Known Member TS Supporters

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    The original metal mics get dinged and dented - anyone found a nice replacement mic for the CVRs that is an inexpensive swap in-/out ?

    Jay
     
  4. ric3677

    ric3677 Well-Known Member

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    Pierce has a nice system.....it's really nice to calibrate all the mics and have the same DB with the same DB on all fields. He also sells the Mighty mic,

    He will read this and get back to you soon.

    Rickyd
     
  5. lju

    lju Member

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    Check out the above link, we replaced all of the original metal CVR mics with these plastic ones. They're very durable and inexpensive. So far we've had good luck with them. Also they appear to be the same as the "turbo" mics sold elsewhere for much more $$. We used the SPC-6P 5" model.

    lju
     
  6. maclellan1911

    maclellan1911 TS Member

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    Where can you get the needed cable ends for repairs.
     
  7. Frank C

    Frank C Well-Known Member

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    Mac, we replaced all the old cable ends on ours, I will get you the info for the replacements. We found that the wires were always broken, just where they went into the plug ends.....a little soldering and you are back in business! watch for the email tomorrow Frank C
     
  8. Ljutic111

    Ljutic111 TS Member

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    Thanks all !!! No we`re not going wireless so how do you check to see if any problems are in the mic itself using an OHM meter . Right now I`m just removing parts and rebuilding them onto other cones after they have been crazy glued or else I just throw them away . It`s been trial and error now but I would like to know IF the internal mics are any good . I do have 20 that are all good so the rest will be just good workable spares .
     
  9. halfmile

    halfmile Well-Known Member

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    You need to read my other post. Hook the mike(it's a speaker actually) to the earphone jack on a transistor radio. If it plays music it's good.

    If you have no radio connect a flashlight battery across the speaker. If it's good a click will be heard.

    You can do the same thing with a Pro Glo continuity tester, plus shorts will show up.

    HM
     
  10. Dr.Longshot

    Dr.Longshot Banned Banned

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    The speakers are 8 ohms, I have found replacements for as little as $12.00 each
    in quantities of 6 or more from local electronics store, you can find info I left on a previous post about repairs and parts replacement, speakers, plugs etc
    I have found that on Original Black Canterbury Speakers, Spiders building a nest in the INTERNAL CONE which you cannot see unless it is disassembled causing it to malfunction, I have one in front of me now that I disassembled and can attest to that fact, It actually measures 6.3 ohms so 8 ohm speakers will replace them. I don't have the Columbus Ohio Phone book any more, but look under electronics parts store on Indianola Ave in Columbus Ohio., also I used low temp 2 cond unsheilded cables for replacement with 18-20 gauge wire. I made up several with real long cords for shootoffs for buddy shoots so shooters would get equal pulls, none slow or fast causing problems. What comes out is what you shoot. I wish I coulkd remember the name of the store.

    Gary Bryant
    Dr.longshot
     
  11. halfmile

    halfmile Well-Known Member

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    These are the same speakers we used to put in our grilles for extensions to our CB radios back in the day.

    NOthing special about them. Just the connector business. We remove it and pop rivet it to the new one.

    I personally would just wire nut the connection at the speaker and dispense with the connector. (afro engineer). Dont forget the 100 ohm resistor, just a balancing deal. It's soldered across the connector inside the little tin housing.

    HM

    HM
     
  12. abacus

    abacus TS Member

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    Halfmile, each mic will likely need a different resistor value to bring 5 of them into any resemblance of calibration to make them work as they are supposed to. Better know what your doing or your going to have a bunch of frustrated shooters.

    We found dealer mics were a bargain cosidering the time and money we spent trying to save a buck.
     
  13. Ljutic111

    Ljutic111 TS Member

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    YES JACK , Gary at Rocky Mountain Sports has been our Dealer of choice when we need something . He has always been very quick in getting our order promptly delivered . If I need something after this ordeal I will order any parts from him but right now I`m in a mix and match program to get what I have here in order .
     
  14. zzt

    zzt Well-Known Member

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    I'm responsible for keeping my club's CVR systems working. I've found a long term fix for everything except the two yahoos who continue to drive the tractor pulling the steel wheeled cart loaded with targets over the cables. The only solution to that is brain transplants, or maybe I should just shoot them.

    Anyway, I got delegated this job when things were a mess. Initially I just ordered parts, cable and connectors from our CVR supplier. I finally decided to make up a bunch of spare cables so I wouldn't have to set up every time something broke.

    I ordered a boat load of all the connectors from Buxcomm. The have first rate connectors at $1 each. Also be sure to oder several Bag-o-Screws. Each bag is $1 and contains a bunch of all the screws that come loose on the connectors. I also ordered 2:1 and 3:1 shrink tubing and cable from the local electric supply.

    Aside from idiots running over the cables and severing them in the middle, the biggest problem is with the connections at the end of the connectors. The cable used "normally" has very coarse shielding which abrades the conductors when it flexes. Cables get flexed often when they are inserted, and by everyone who insists on adjusting each mic to a "precise" location before shooting.

    The fix is this. Before you prepare the cable, slip on 2:1 6" long piece of shrink wrap and one 3"-4" piece of 3:1 shrink wrap onto the end of the cable. The 6" piece should be just larger than the diameter of the cable. The 3" piece should have a diameter that allows it to be placed over the connector with the clamping screws attached.

    The prepare the cable making sure the leads are short when you solder to the pins. After soldering, slide the 6" piece of shrink wrap up to the the connector as you can. Shrink the tubing in place. Then assemble the outer housing and push the cable with shrink wrap into the clamping area and fasten. Now slide the 3" piece up and over the screws clamping the cable, over the main portion of the body. Be careful not to go too far or you will prevent the threaded collar from moving freely. Shrink the 3" tubing.

    Now you have a new connector with a 5 3/4" strain relief on it, plus another 2 1/2" strain relief on top of that. It is also water tight. The two strain reliefs are necessary to soften the bend and really help minimize short circuiting due to wear. Now tie wrap the cable to the stand down where the first winding hook is, and make sure there is enough slack so that there is no strain on the connector no matter how the speaker is rotated. That is extra insurance. Since I started doing that I have had no cable failures due to wear, flex or short circuits.

    To wire the cable between the control box and the relay box I use Carol brand 18-2 600V cable. I buy it in 1000' spools and make up as many as there is cable for. Because of our tractor yahoos, we go through a bunch.

    I have checked and repaired the relay box. The two units that fail are the relay and the transformer. The transformer is a pain to replace, because it is tied down and require three hands (or patience) to remove. Plus you'll need a solder sucker. The relay isn't much better. I've found that sending them down to Bob Shultz is easier, because he fixes them for the same price as you are charged for the repair parts to fix them yourself.

    The four conductor control cable is easy to make, and fixing/replacing the diode in the hand control and the indicator light are also easy. BTW, that diode is part of the voice activation circuit, so be sure to check it if you are having activation problems. Sometimes it is not the speaker or the mic cable.

    We put hats and feet on our control boxes to keep them above wet ground and out of the rain. It significantly cuts down on problems. The Bob Shultz box, or even a Rubbermaid box is better solution.
     
  15. halfmile

    halfmile Well-Known Member

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    4 years now and nary a problem Just re using the resistor already on.

    If you wanted to be geek anal you would apply a sine wave in the voice frequency range to the speaker and read the SPL output, which would give you an EIA sensitivity rating.

    You could then formulate the proper balancing resistor, using 2% tolerance resistors to be sure and get the proper balance.

    The damn circuit doesn't know the difference. the circuit board sees one of the inputs at a predetermined level higher than the other 4 and closes the relay to throw the target.

    "of course OEM parts are better than aftermarket, right?" Yeah, that's why John force goes to the dealer.

    HM
     
  16. arrow

    arrow Member

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    Hi Ljutic 111
    I am Bryan Pierce of Pierce Sales & Repair. I sell and repair CVR systems.
    I sell a test set to check Wired Canterbury Voice Release system.
    This unit tests all components of the system.
    There is a tone generator and sound level meter to check Mic gain.
    You can check the cables for opens and shorts at the same time.
    You can check the scorekeepers trigger switch and the power supply.
    There is also a way to check the input gain of the ports on the control box.
    The price of this test set is $190 Plus shipping.
    If you have any question on how to test or maintain your CVR system.
    I will be more then happy to answer any of your questions

    Bryan Pierce
    Pierce Sales & Repair
    Cell Phone 608-617-6631
    e-mail piercesales@verizon.net
     
  17. Ljutic111

    Ljutic111 TS Member

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    OK , I went back down and did a check to the last 5 I had set up to use Saturday . I tried the AA battery test . The ones that are now in operation made a loader sound than most of the ones I`m going to use and try out this weekend . Guess thats what I`ll have to do and find all the ones that will work properly . I may have someone bring down a better OHM meter so I have a better idea what to look for . What ones don`t work I`ll separate and use parts of off them . Thanks for all the replies . Some were helpfull !!!
     
  18. Shooting Coach

    Shooting Coach Well-Known Member

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    For thosse who service the CVR's, do yourself and the shooters you serve a favor and get Brian's test set. It is worth every dime, it saves time, and keeps your blood pressure down.
     
  19. phirel

    phirel TS Member

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    HM- I have been told by a couple of knowledgeable repairmen that if all five microphones are not matched with the proper resistors some of the microphones can give slow pulls. This seems logical to me but I have little expertise in electronics. I do know that some microphones will consistently give slow pulls.

    Pat Ireland
     
  20. grunt

    grunt TS Supporters TS Supporters

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    Pat, your right about the mikes, but some slow pulls are also traced to bad wires, Just as one gent mentioned the wires flex at the connection and the insulation on the original wires will split and short each other.Which can give a slow pull or no pull. Dave
     
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