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BT-100 trigger guard removal?

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by PatMiles, Jan 1, 2012.

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  1. PatMiles

    PatMiles Well-Known Member

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    How does a body go about removing the trigger guard from the drop out trigger assembly? i see the 1/16" roll pin but then? I would like to do some trigger work on the gun so now I also need some info on complete disassembly of the trigger group. Just a very good polish of the hammer hook and sear face with a very fine ceramic stone and oil. If I see what I think I see the sear engagement can be tweaked by way of an adjustment screw that resides under the trigger guard.

    Thanks in advance,

    Pat
     
  2. JerryP

    JerryP Active Member

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    Do you have a trigger jig? Don't polish the hammer and sear engagement surfaces without a jig! It is impossible to keep the surfaces square without a jig.
     
  3. PatMiles

    PatMiles Well-Known Member

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    I intend to do a polish only.No metal removal. I have extensive experience doing trigger jobs on 1911 style handguns as well as Ruger Mark 1's,2's,3's and 10/22's. No problem here. Just need some help with correct disassembly.

    Anybody?

    Pat
     
  4. JerryP

    JerryP Active Member

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    You can't polish without removing metal. The sear should flat with a mirror finish and sharp square edges. It is impossible to do without a jig. Sounds like you don't have one.
     
  5. PatMiles

    PatMiles Well-Known Member

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    You figured right, but I do know what I'm doing. Per chance do you have the info I am asking for?

    Pat
     
  6. yakimaman

    yakimaman Well-Known Member

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    Change your name when the BT 100 goes up for sale.
     
  7. PatMiles

    PatMiles Well-Known Member

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    Got it!
    Now to fire up the body grinder! 1 ounce trigger coming up!

    Pat
     
  8. JerryP

    JerryP Active Member

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    If you knew what you were doing, you would have a trigger jig. But you don't! good luck

    Note to self, don't buy a BT100 from Pat Miles.
     
  9. PatMiles

    PatMiles Well-Known Member

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    Jerry,

    Where would I buy a trigger jig for a BT-100?

    Pat
     
  10. hmb

    hmb Well-Known Member

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    You don't need no stinking jig, just polish it. HMB
     
  11. JerryP

    JerryP Active Member

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    Pat, you won't find one. I used a Ron Power jig with 1911 pins to do my BT99. Have to be adaptive. The trick is to hold the sear suface square to the stone and be repeatable. The jig allows me to do that. The sear has to remain flat and square to the trigger engagement surface all along it's width. That cannot be done free hand, it is just flat impossible. What do you hope to gain? I haven't messed with a BT100 but the adjustment screw may eliminate any creep. At least you know to use a fine ceramic stone that won't remove much metal.




    hmb knows this , he is just being contrary.
     
  12. hmb

    hmb Well-Known Member

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    Contrary, I'm not contrary! I'm being logical. All you need to do is make the trigger smooth. If you make it clean and crisp like a target rifle trigger, next thing you know you will be aiming and squeezing and missing targets. HMB
     
  13. JerryP

    JerryP Active Member

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    Ha Ha , twisted logic.

    "All you need to do is make the trigger smooth" that is the tricky part. simple polishing at best , won't change anything. At worst, will ruin a trigger.
     
  14. PatMiles

    PatMiles Well-Known Member

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    Jerry,
    Your right, I can use my Power Custom jig and 1911 adapter... but only for the sear. What are you using for the hammer? The face that needs to be polished is perpendicular to the hammer pin hole which will mate up against the face of the 1911 adapter.
    If you want a real eye opener put a .157" gauge pin and a .097 gauge pin in the respective through holes in the trigger group housing. Push them through both sides. Now put the hammer and sear in place and look at the difference in the angles of the mating faces. Not even close in my case. How to fix this? Well, I'll leave the hammer hook alone except for HAND polishing the appropriate face to a mirror finish with my white ceramic stone. The sear will get set up in my 2" tool makers vice and then set on the granite surface plate. Using a height gauge, I'll offset the sear face to the appropriate angle and then set the vise up on my Chevalier surface grinder and take .001" off at a pass until I get the angle corrected. Then back to the Power jig where I'll paint the sear face with Dykem and set the angle of the ceramic stone and put a mirror polish on the sear.
    Regarding the Power Custom jig, use a small machinist clamp to clamp the sear against the vertical face on the adapter while on the stud. I put mine on the surface plate and found that the locating studs in the 1911 adapter were not parallel to the roller in the up/down saddle. The face of the 1911 adapter is perpendicular to the large needle bearing which the ceramic stone rides on.

    Pat
     
  15. JerryP

    JerryP Active Member

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    Pat, I don't mess with the hammer. I don't have a jig for that so I am limited to ajusting the sear. I don't use dykem, I tend to get it all over everything, I just use a black magic marker to keep track of what is happening. Coat the sear with the marker and then one pass of the stone to check the angle. Re-adjust until the angle is correct.

    I also use a machinist clamp with the Power jig, can't hold the sear against the jig otherwise. Some times it is awkward to use and feel the need to drill a hole in the clamp to go over the pins at times. I have mostly used mine for 1911's and S&W N frame work way in the past. Glad to hear you aren't sitting at the kitchen table with a file like the common trigger butcher.
     
  16. PatMiles

    PatMiles Well-Known Member

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    Jerry,

    I've never had a problem stoning the vertical face of 1911 hammer hooks. With the ground (ground 90 degree edges) of the Brownells white ceramic stone it takes a fair bit of work to remove .001" on a hard hammer. I use the Koenig (EGW) hammer and the EGW hard sear as they both are very close to the same hardness so both wear evenly. I have an adjustable hammer/sear block with pins so I can adjust it to the same pin spacing, hammer and sear, as the frame I am working with. With the hammer done I put the hammer and sear under a 25X microscope and then stone the sear face to match the hammer hooks exactly. Doing this I can then cut the hammer hooks on my surface grinder to .016" height and have never had a gun with hammer follow. The microscope makes ALL the difference in the world in doing 1911 trigger jobs. Needless to say, working the trigger itself as well as the disconnector, sear spring and using an 18# mainspring add to a good result.
    I'll let you know how the trigger turns out on the BT-100. I'd like to have a crisp, clean 3-4# trigger in the end. We'll see.

    Pat
     
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