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Browning Recoiless

Discussion in 'Uncategorized Threads' started by blaster, Oct 20, 2007.

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  1. blaster

    blaster Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    180
    Doe anyone have a book on this gun?? I would like to buy one or something.
     
  2. GrumpyGramps

    GrumpyGramps TS Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2007
    Messages:
    3
    You can get a copy of the owners manual at

    http://www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/

    use the signin name and password at the top of the page.
     
  3. Phil E

    Phil E TS Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    390
    Here's a disassembly procedure, which I cut & pasted: -Phil E
    Subject: Browning Recoilless Question
    From: WISGUNNER
    Email:
    Date: Sat, Oct 22, 2005 - 11:30 PM ET
    Website Address:

    For those looking for disassembly instructions:

    First thing is get yourself a 9/64 allen wrench, as every screw on the thing is that size. Don't ask me why it's american and not metric.

    Keep the gun upright (horizontal) until told otherwise!!

    MAKE SURE BARREL IS UNCOCKED/UNLOADED

    1. Pull the screw out at the mid-point of the rib. One screw, screws into the other. Slide the front portion of the rib off the gun.

    2.Look at the right side of the gun where it says "target loads only". Right after the "Y" in "only" is a screw. Remove it. Once you remove the screw the assembly key directly on the other side of the receiver can be poked out. Now that the screw and the assembly key is removed, grab the forearm and slide it of the gun as well, while keeping the gun upright (trigger on bottom).

    3. Take the allen wrench and unscrew the bolt handle. Now look at the top of the receiver. Remember the "target loads only" statement on the right? Right about where the "G" is in "target" is a small threaded block (striker sear latch). Screw the bolt handle in it a few turns and pull it out, or at this point you can flip the gun upside down and it will fall out.

    4. With the striker sear latch removed, pick the gun up and slowly pull out the barrel and set it aside (don't worry, no parts will go flying). At this point you have it broken down to the point where you can clean the bulk of it. What I've found that really works well is, once you clean out the receiver, spray it with Rem. Dry-Lube with teflon. This stuff leaves no residue and it seems to keep the aaction working quite smooth without collecting crud.

    5. I would recommend that you don't pull off the trigger. While I could show you in 1 minute how to put it back together, it would take me about and hour to type it out. It's really not as bad as it sounds. If you really feel the need to do it, here's what to watch out for; When you remove the two screws holding it in, get a good grip on the gun and pull it off as slow as possible. There is a little spring underneath the trigger connector that could go flying. Just go slow.

    6. Once you remove the trigger, either draw a picture or take a digital pic of the three pieces still attached to the gun. They are the sear, sear link, and the sear pivot. If you decide to be brave and pull the pins holding them in, just be sure not to lose the spring under the pivot.

    7. Assembly is straight forward so I'll buzz through it quick. Just refer to the above steps in reverse for the most part. Before you begin re-assembly you should have the trigger put back together and re-installed on the receiver. The first thing you're going to do is put the barrel back in. The trick to this is the alignment of the barrel and the receiver. Look at the very rear of the barrel and you'll see a little protruding latch (receiver latch release). With the gun horizontal in it's normal position, this has to be on top in the 12 o'clock position. Push the barrel in slowly (without twisting) just an inch or so. Now, put the butt on the floor and point the gun straight up. The reason for this is, if you remember, there was a protruding rod about 4" long way back at the end of the barrel. This has to be aligned with the spring in the buttstock. Since it just dangles there you won't get it to line up correctly if the gun is horizontal. With the gun still vertical, continue pushing in the barrel until it stops. The reason it stops is it is hitting the sear pivot. What you have to do now is pull the trigger to get it to go the rest of the way in. You'll know you have it right when you start to feel the resistance of the spring. Once you hear/feel the spring starting to compress, carefully flip the gun completely around so the muzzle is on the floor and keep going until the barrel locks in place like normal (I put the buttpad under my armpit and use my body weight to compress it, unless your built like the hulk and can cock the barrel with the muzzle pointing in the air).

    8. Now your past the crucial part. Put the striker sear latch back in from step 4 and then slide the forearm assembly back on.

    9. Re-install the assembly key and screw from step two.

    10. Slide the front rib back on and reconnect.

    While this whole process looks daunting, I'll bet I could break the whole thing down and re-assemble the gun, including the triggers, in 5 minutes or less. One thing you guys might want to do is remove the ejector. I find the gun easier to work on the line with it removed. This way the hulls just stay in there instead of flipping out.
     
  4. kelly andersen

    kelly andersen TS Member

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2007
    Messages:
    328
    Dont know much about them. Gander mountain in Lakeville Minnesota has a nice one for $650.00, not sure if thats a good price or not,I would like to shoot one someday just to say I did.
     
  5. Phil E

    Phil E TS Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    390
    Do shoot one if you get a chance, Kelly. $650's a competitive price. They shoot like nothing else. Recoil is like a pellet rifle. Phil E
     
  6. JonP

    JonP Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    123
    You use to be able to download the manuals right from Brownings website.

    They had a no longer manufactured (can't remember the exact name) and I downloaded the Recoilless manual from there.

    Matter of fact, I think I still have a copy on this computer (yup, still got it!), I'll add email above (drop the xx's) so if you can't get it on Brownings sight email me and I'll send you a copy.

    Jon
     
  7. maclellan1911

    maclellan1911 TS Member

    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2006
    Messages:
    4,226
    go here and to the right you will see manuals not found click onto shotgun scroll down to recoilless fill out form browning will send you one.
     
  8. blaster

    blaster Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    180
    Thank you all
     
  9. J.Woolsey

    J.Woolsey Member

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2007
    Messages:
    930
    I have the recoiless manual on a PDF file will send to anyone requesting it. J.Woolsey
     
  10. Spanky

    Spanky Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    1,437
    I have a new in box never fired 30" mfg in 1993. Complete literature and all accesories, let me know if you need any info on this.
     
  11. roty03

    roty03 TS Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    8
    I can send you an original owners manual if you want to call me at 800-782-4440 ext 697.
    Linda
     
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