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brass vs steel hulls

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by Blueraven81, Mar 31, 2010.

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  1. Blueraven81

    Blueraven81 TS Member

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    Oct 17, 2009
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    I got some once shot hulls today.

    Some of the #7 1/2 1 1/8s oz ones have brass and the others not.

    The brass is only on 7 1/2s.

    What's the reason for brass vs steel and is either one better?

    I assume I can load #8 1 1/8 oz in the brass hulls.

    Just wondering.

    Blueraven
     
  2. alfermann66

    alfermann66 Member

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    Jan 29, 1998
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    Blueraven, you didn't mention the type of hull. If they're Gun Clubs, they're both steel...just plated differently.

    Buz
     
  3. Cowboy1

    Cowboy1 TS Member

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    This is what I have read:

    The brass base gives a very small amount of cushioning to the chamber walls, whereas the steel does not.

    When your firearm is discharged and the pressure rises to the peak chamber pressure, everything in that chamber between the pressure and the chamber walls is pressed against the chamber walls at full chamber pressure. When the chamber pressure is reduced back to ambient pressure, due to everything squirting out of the barrel, the hulls and the shell bases, especially the brass ones, relax a bit and spring back close to their original size. The steel bases on hulls are not made of heat-treated or spring steel and they barely relax at all since their forming pressure has been exceeded by the previous chamber pressure. This is one of the reasons that steel based hulls are harder to size, they come out of the chamber larger than their brass counterparts.

    I've also read that you'd have to fire many thousands of rounds before steel shells might leave depression in the chamber. Again ... that's what I've read.
     
  4. ljutic73

    ljutic73 Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada
    Steel hulls stick in some gun, like Ljutics...so I only use them for doubles in my Browning....
     
  5. Blueraven81

    Blueraven81 TS Member

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    Thanks guys, that certainly explains it.

    Maybe one of these days I'll have all the answers and won't need to lean on you guys. Then again I'm sure that will never happen.

    Thanks,
    Craig
     
  6. Pull & Mark

    Pull & Mark Well-Known Member

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    BlueRaven, first off just because the factory load was xxx shot size and xxx oz's of lead, that does not matter. You can shoot a 3/4 oz' to a one and one half oz. lead load in most 12 ga. 2 & 3/4 inch long hulls. Shot size does not make any difference as well as long as it weights the correct amount. I don't waste my time reloading steel hulls. Life's to short to reload trash hulls. You can buy a Rem. STS hull for 4 cents if you can't find them and reload it 6 times or more, even at 4 cents the cost id almost nothing in the long run, compared to what it might do to my gun or my reloader, and its also just to darn hard on my arm loading as well. Steel based hulls will kill the life of your resizer too. Life's to short to load=em. Oh Yeh, some hulls use a brass colored base that looks like brass but is not. Use a magnet on side of hull, or remove primer (primers are magnetic) and use magnet and you'll find out if its brass or steel. Use Win. AA's or Rem. STS's. There the best. Most of us try to buy the best powders,wads,and lead why go cheap on the hull!!! Break-em all. Jeff
     
  7. acorange

    acorange Well-Known Member

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    There is nothing wrong with loading Gun Clubs.
    They load great for me and I would rather use them than any new AA-HS hull.
    Also not EVERY Ljutic will refuse to shoot them.
     
  8. yzfart

    yzfart TS Member

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    I have loaded some of the Gun Clubs on my P/W and they definitely take more oomph on the handle than the STS or AA hulls. The guys with the MEC loaders have it easier with the collet sizer. Lately I have been sticking with STS hulls and giving all of my gun clubs to a couple of buddies that load with MEC loaders.

    I will say one thing for them - they wear like iron. I have loaded them 8 times regularly.

    Ben
     
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