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Blueing an o/u

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by turmite, Feb 16, 2010.

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  1. turmite

    turmite Member

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2008
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    Is it recommended to hot blue over and unders? I've heard the process will destroy the old doubles, but am not sure about the newer over and unders.

    Mike
     
  2. phirel

    phirel TS Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    9,556
    Mike- Some, not all, of the older doubles had the barrels fastened with a solder that will melt in a hot blue tank. This can cause a real problem. I always blued doubles using the slow rust method because I did not know which ones could stand hot bluing and which ones could not. I finally got comfortable with the slow rust method and the last few years I messed with guns, that is what I used for everything. Slow rust takes longer but require much less room and, in my opinion, produces a deeper bluing.

    Pat Ireland
     
  3. turmite

    turmite Member

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    Mar 19, 2008
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    519
    Thanks Pat. This is a Citori that I think was made in 84. It has some wear where you would carry the gun in the field, and one small spot on the lower barrel about the size of a dime. I bought the gun in hopes of make a few bucks on it to apply toward the puchase of a Cynergy, but Browning wait time is 4-6 months. I can get it done locally, but am concerned about the silver solder thing, therefore the question. I have researched the Belgian blue process which seems to have a good following and is something I could do, but diy references I read have the metal finished to a 320 grit, which seems to me to be way more coarse than the polish on anything Browning.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated. I intend to take some photos and put the gun on here tonight in hopes someone has an itch that needs scratched!

    Mike
     
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