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Best way to finish a stock like a factory browning

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by xringjim, Feb 6, 2011.

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  1. xringjim

    xringjim TS Member

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    I've forgotten just what to use to finish a stock off like Browning's. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim
     
  2. GW22

    GW22 Active Member

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    I don't know what Browning's finish is, but the closest I've come to matching it is multiple coats of polyurethane, each one smoothed meticulously with very fine ScotchBrite and cleaned with a tack cloth. I am not particularly fond of this finish, and I don't think polyurethane is a generally a good finish for gun stocks, but it's the closest I've come to matching Browning's "plastic-coated" look. It's a pain in the butt on checkering and fills in the crevices too much if you spray too heavy or don't know what you're doing. A careful brush touch-up helps clean out the checkering grooves if done quickly and used with skill.

    Hopefully somebody has a better solution for you. I'll be watching too.

    -Gary
     
  3. GunDr

    GunDr Well-Known Member

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    Which Browning finish are you looking for. I've noticed that a lot of the newer stocks, ie...525 sporters, do not even fill enough of the grain. Kind of looks like a coat or two of oil and that's it.
     
  4. Unknown1

    Unknown1 Well-Known Member

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    Polyurethane may duplicate the appearance of the glossy Browning finish but it isn't nearly as hard or UV resistant (unless you use spar urethane).

    A catalyzed (2-part) auto clear coat or furniture finish will work, but you have to spray them.

    MK
     
  5. GW22

    GW22 Active Member

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    Good question, GunDr. I should not have assumed.

    -Gary
     
  6. OregonDon

    OregonDon TS Member

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    Brownings finish is called Texacryl. Not sold in the U.S. Don
     
  7. daddiooo

    daddiooo TS Supporters TS Supporters

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    Best finish for any gun is a hand rubbed oil finish. If you get some gun rack rash or handling marks they're much easier to fix without the polyurethane or clearcoat finishes. (like Perazzi finishes theirs)
     
  8. WindyOneNW

    WindyOneNW TS Member

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    Not sure if this is close to browning or not but certainly nice. I prep the wood with ultra fine grit sand paper and then with 0000 steel wool. clean dust of with vacuum and tack cloth. Apply Tru Oil with tack cloth in a thin even coat. Next day, buff with 0000 steel wool and clean with vacuum and tack cloth, then repeat with another coat of tru oil. Again allow to dry one day. Repeat this 7-10 times and with each coat you will get a little more depth and luster. After you have reached your desired finish, add one more final coat of tru oil and again allow to dry completely this time maybe 4-7 days in a dust free environment. Then buff with 0000 steel wool taking extra time and get every part of the wood except the checkering. It helps to mask off the checkering with carefully cut painters masking tape 2-3 layers over checkered areas only. This will prevent the checkering from dulling. Once you have buffed the final coat of tru oil real well and it is very shiny, clean it with a baby wipe and then wipe dry with a clean soft lint free cloth. Finish the stock with 3-5 coats of Birchwood Casey stock wax. Allow the way to cure for a few days before handling the stock or assembling to a gun. After a few days it should look great and be ready to install.

    This is a fantastic way to make wood look awesome. I will warn you that the key to success with this method is time and attention to detail. If you cannot take your time then don't start this project or you will be dissapointed. The whole process should take you 2-3 weeks if you work on it everyday for a few hours.

    Another tip, try on a piece of scrap wood about the same size as a stock so you get a feel for what you are doing before you attempt on your nice stock.

    I hope this helps, PM me if you have questions.
     
  9. WindyOneNW

    WindyOneNW TS Member

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    Not sure if this is close to browning or not but certainly nice. I prep the wood with ultra fine grit sand paper and then with 0000 steel wool. clean dust of with vacuum and tack cloth. Apply Tru Oil with tack cloth in a thin even coat. Next day, buff with 0000 steel wool and clean with vacuum and tack cloth, then repeat with another coat of tru oil. Again allow to dry one day. Repeat this 7-10 times and with each coat you will get a little more depth and luster. After you have reached your desired finish, add one more final coat of tru oil and again allow to dry completely this time maybe 4-7 days in a dust free environment. Then buff with 0000 steel wool taking extra time and get every part of the wood except the checkering. It helps to mask off the checkering with carefully cut painters masking tape 2-3 layers over checkered areas only. This will prevent the checkering from dulling. Once you have buffed the final coat of tru oil real well and it is very shiny, clean it with a baby wipe and then wipe dry with a clean soft lint free cloth. Finish the stock with 3-5 coats of Birchwood Casey stock wax. Allow the way to cure for a few days before handling the stock or assembling to a gun. After a few days it should look great and be ready to install.

    This is a fantastic way to make wood look awesome. I will warn you that the key to success with this method is time and attention to detail. If you cannot take your time then don't start this project or you will be dissapointed. The whole process should take you 2-3 weeks if you work on it everyday for a few hours.

    Another tip, try on a piece of scrap wood about the same size as a stock so you get a feel for what you are doing before you attempt on your nice stock.

    I hope this helps, PM me if you have questions.
     
  10. Stl Flyn

    Stl Flyn Well-Known Member

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    Send it to Browning.
     
  11. philk

    philk Member

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    Better yet send it to Art`s.
     
  12. high 2

    high 2 Member

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    Why wouild you want to duplicate a Browning finish? They are tough but look as if they have been dipped in plastic. A good spray urethane will be a much better looking finish. Larry
     
  13. Dave P

    Dave P TS Supporters TS Supporters

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    I took mine to a furniture stripper that was familiar with Browning finishes. When I got it back I used very fine steel wool, tack rag and oil finished it myself with about 10 coats and I was happy with it. The checkering will give you fits.
     
  14. Unknown1

    Unknown1 Well-Known Member

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    <blockquote><I>"Send it to Browning."</i></blockquote>Browning doesn't have anything to do with finishes; they get the wood already finished.

    MK
     
  15. Unknown1

    Unknown1 Well-Known Member

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    <blockquote><I>"how do you REMOVE that plastic type finish from a Browning stock?"</i></blockquote>It's a 2-part self hardening finish and there are companies that can remove it. I know a stockmaker who sends Browning wood out to have the finishes stripped before he works on them, He says that it's not a pleasant process.

    MK
     
  16. racer

    racer TS Member

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    I stripped mine with regular automotive paint stripper. Had to do a few spots twice. Clean with soap and water and let dry for a few days. You will need to lightly sand the wood-stay away from checkering. Maple stain-then about 20 coats of tru-oil. "Wet sand" with tru-oil will fill all the small grain holes. Last 3-4 coats were very thing- buff and wax... takes a couple weeks for sure. If I could post pics- it turned out pretty good for first stock. Dan
     
  17. Stl Flyn

    Stl Flyn Well-Known Member

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    This is a stock that Dan above described the finish procedures on. I used high strength regular paint stripper, and keep it wet. Let's see some pictures Dan. Jon

    Before I started refinishing my own stocks I sent a Grade VI Citori Trap stock into Browning and they sent it back refinished for $244. They may have sent it out to finish, but it looked like a new stock. Jon
    stlflyn_2010_070484.jpg

    stlflyn_2010_070485.jpg
     
  18. Calkidd

    Calkidd Well-Known Member

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    I am thinking automotive clear coat will give you the same look.
     
  19. darincraft

    darincraft Member

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    I am pretty interested in an alternative way to finish off my projects as well. I am very interested if anyone has used an automotive clear for the final finish.

    Darin
     
  20. turmite

    turmite Member

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    I use automotive clear both for stocks and guitars. If you want it shiney, there isn't a better finish on the market for ease of application and overall durability.

    Keep in mind, there are many different brands of auto clear, and just like anything else, you get what you pay for.

    I need to tell you that if you want a perfect finish, you do need to fill the grain before finishing or the auto clear will draw into the pores while going through the curing process which can take a few months to be fully cured. This draw back leaves the finish with a slight texture, very slight.

    I will try to post some pics of one I just finished later on today. Will have to drive to photograph it.

    Mike
     
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