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Best shell for trap

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by BARTMAN, Feb 26, 2012.

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  1. BARTMAN

    BARTMAN TS Member

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    Which shells are best for shooting trap. And can you reload the silver brass shells. Just wondered because I want to buy the ones I can reload down the road if I buy a reloader.
     
  2. GoldTrigger

    GoldTrigger Member

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    Do you want the best or do you want what is economical and good enough ? If you will be reloading your empties later, I choose the Remington line. ( nitro 27's in 7.5 shot for handicap and STS 8's for singles, but that is not an inexpensive way to go. Just my opinion of the best way you can do it. That way if you want to shoot practice with the less costly Gun Club line at least all your hulls can hold the same reload recipe.

    Just my opinion..
     
  3. BARTMAN

    BARTMAN TS Member

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    Yes I guess the best economic way. I was buying the winchester universal for 22.50 for 100 rounds but wondered if you could reload the silver brass.
     
  4. The Literalist

    The Literalist Well-Known Member

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    Bartman. Yes, you can reload the Universals. For similar prices, you might consider Top Guns, Gun Clubs, or Estates.
     
  5. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    As stated above, the steel(silver as you put it) based hulls can be reloaded. They are a little harder to run thru the sizer on the loader. The budget shells with steel base often do not last as many reloads either. When I do reload the steel base hulls I usually load them once or twice and toss 'em. With the brass base hulls like the Remington STS or Nitro's, I can often easily get 6-10 reloads each before I start to notice slits in the crimp area or just weak crimps in general.

    I have reloaded the Winchester Universals and Winchester Super Targets(which are both Winchester's budget shells) and they are generally not good for more than one reload. Personally I try to stick with the brass based hulls.
     
  6. Ross

    Ross Well-Known Member

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    The Gun Club will reload as well & as often as STSs with same data, just have a (plated) steel head, if your gun will eject-extract them they are a good hull, get a GOOD collet type resizer. I shoot them with no problems plus they are usually FREE as many just shoot & toss. I have a Mec #77 resizer that works very well so far, even if I had to buy new "fingers" for it some day all those free GCs will have already saved me more than buying once fired empties or new shells just to get empties. As everybody has said most of the other promotional stuff is a once or twice and toss, I tried reloading a box of Win. promos "once" never again. They must be OK new as I see a lot of them in the trash barrels with euro-trash. Ross Puls
     
  7. Calkidd

    Calkidd Well-Known Member

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    I just tried to shoot some steel base (they are not called silver) hulls that I reloaded and I will never again do that. As a matter of fact I am throwing all of my steel based hull in the garbage. First they will not allow my auto to go full battery and secondly they got stuck in the Beretta Gold E and would not eject. Please don't comment about my re sizer because that was adjusted as tight as it would go.
     
  8. Ross

    Ross Well-Known Member

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    Calkidd Don't think it has anything to do with your resizer some guns just don't like steel heads, they may be just fine new, but I think the steel loses some of its strength & resiliency after the factory load, that's when they swell & stick, I have good luck with Gun Clubs. But don't mess with anything else. Ross Puls
     
  9. Chango2

    Chango2 Active Member

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    I've not reloaded in years due to cost of components. But whatever happened to the Remington Premier hull? It sure was slick..as were Federal Gold Medals and the AA's by Winchester.
     
  10. Dave P

    Dave P TS Supporters TS Supporters

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    If you belong to a trap club you'll no doubt have a few shooters with deep pockets that dump their Nitro's and STS's. Keep an eye on who these guys are and ask them for their empties. I do.
     
  11. Calkidd

    Calkidd Well-Known Member

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    Well my brother's AL391 would not go full battery, my 1100 would not go full battery, my 682 would not eject and my BT100 would bind but would fire and eject.

    Not thanks you can keep them.

    Oh and I saw a Rem GC come completley separated from the steel collar and lodge in the barrel.

    Bryan
     
  12. Calkidd

    Calkidd Well-Known Member

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    Well my brother's AL391 would not go full battery, my 1100 would not go full battery, my 682 would not eject and my BT100 would bind but would fire and eject.

    Not thanks you can keep them.

    Oh and I saw a Rem GC come completley separated from the steel collar and lodge in the barrel.

    Bryan
     
  13. zaob1

    zaob1 Member

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    Shot 150 rounds today of reloaded GC in my 682 Gold E. No problems and all ejected just fine. Shoot a Beretta 391 with the same shells as well as a SKB 85tss. All shoot very well with the GC reloads. Some guns like them some don't. I won't argue with anyone who has problems. Could be the loader, the shell, or the gun. Load what works for you. As they say, break em all.

    Rick
     
  14. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    I don't use or reload Remington Gun Clubs anymore because of exactly what "calkidd" described of the seperated base. My son opened his BT 99 to remove the spent hull after shooting and all that came out was the steel base. The hull itself was stuck at the choke as one solid piece. We had to use a cleaning rod to get the plastic part of the hull from the barrel. Thankfully I have always taught him to take the extra second and look completely thru the barrel after every shot. What would the result have been had he been shooting an auto or pump and followed with another shot?


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]
     
  15. Calkidd

    Calkidd Well-Known Member

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    Yep that's exactly what happened today. I know we have heard about base wad separation, but I have never seen something like this. Way too scary.
     
  16. Calkidd

    Calkidd Well-Known Member

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    Yep that's exactly what happened today. I know we have heard about base wad separation, but I have never seen something like this. Way too scary.
     
  17. Calkidd

    Calkidd Well-Known Member

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    Yep that's exactly what happened today. I know we have heard about base wad separation, but I have never seen something like this. Way too scary.
     
  18. Calkidd

    Calkidd Well-Known Member

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    Yep that's exactly what happened today. I know we have heard about base wad separation, but I have never seen something like this. Way too scary.
     
  19. Ross

    Ross Well-Known Member

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    I would hope that anytime anybody only got the steel or brass head out they would immediately check the bbl. I had the same thing happen to my shooting partner with a new style AA, (reload) and just like you we had to get a rod to drive it back out through the chamber. I shoot a pump and probably pi$$ some people off because I blow into the ejection port and watch for smoke, I have seen ( not so nice)comments made here on TS about people like me blowing smoke rings. I don't care what they think I still think safety FIRST, often wondered what they would do--say--think if their gun or the one right beside them blew up??? Just my opinion. Ross Puls
     
  20. School Teacher

    School Teacher Well-Known Member

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    Any brand of shell, plastic or paper, domestic or foreign, brass or steel can have a case/head separation. When you consider that some hulls are reloaded 10 or more times and the pressure and heat dynamics that a hull experiences, case/head separations are definitely possible.

    Whenever you shoot you need to ensure that all of the hull has been removed and that the wad has cleared the barrel.

    That said, I prefer shooting and reloading only brass headed premium hulls. Over time, the additional cost of premium shells reloaded three times IMO approximates the cost of cheap shells and you get a better shell to boot. Given the current cost of components, it makes no sense to me to use cheap hulls.

    I tried reloading the steel hulls when they first came out but gave up on them when I experienced difficult extraction in my 870's and 11/87 and had to replace two sets of action bars.

    My favorite plastic hull is the Federal ribbed plastic Gold Medal hull. The old ribbed plastic Gold Medal hulls could be reloaded well over 10 times and the new ribbed Gold Medal hulls seem to be just as stout. There was a Federal Gold Medal smooth plastic hull a few years back and I reloaded well over 10,000 of them with no problems but other shooters had problems with them. Do not reload the Federal Gold Medal smooth hulls.

    I load these hulls using a Federal F209A primer, Clay Buster or Federal 12S3 wad, 19.3 grains of Alliant green Dot and 1 1/8 oz. of magnum 7 1/2 shot. This load approximates a 2 3/4 dram equivalent loading (1145 fps) and works anywhere from 16 to 27 yards and Winter or Summer.

    The Remington STS hull is probably the most reloaded hull at this time and is a good choice. However, I love my Federals. The brick red color of the Federal hulls matches the color of the US Army Transportation Corps insignia and I used to be a Transportation Corps officer.

    Ed Ward
     
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