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Best RV chemical

Discussion in 'Uncategorized Threads' started by Jimborn, Aug 8, 2007.

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  1. Jimborn

    Jimborn TS Member

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    What's the best holding tank chemical to use????
     
  2. C H S

    C H S TS Member

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    Holding tanks are holding tanks, not septic systems. They aren't intended to store waste long enough for it to break down. When I want to control odor I use either TST granules in moderate weather; a product with formaldehyde is the only answer for me in hot weather, though. You'll hear all kinds of griping about it being bad for the environment but it's degradable and it breaks down just like any other organic compound. Heck, a couple cups of chlorine bleach in a 40 gallon tank usually controls odors for about a week. There are all kinds of enzyme products on the market but they are usually a waste of money because the waste isn't in the tank long enough for them to be effective.
     
  3. blade819

    blade819 Well-Known Member

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    Here's a recipe that I got off of RV.forum a year ago and it works perfect. Take a bucket of water and add 1 cup of liquid bleach, one cup of liquid detergent and one cup of water softener. Put into black holding tank. Same for gray but don't need the detergent. This recepie has a name but I forgot it. Bleach for smell, softener and detergent to prevent sticking to the sides of the tank. Works great! Good luck.
     
  4. BDodd

    BDodd TS Member

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    For 20 years I've been using the following product with excellent results. It has no perfume smell, alleged to work by more or less coating the tank lightly even when in a full tank, has never failed to do the job in 3 trailers and a truck camper, uses just 1 to 1.5 ounces per charge (along with maybe a gallon of water - two bowl flushes is what we do), is ordered by telephone, and the supplier has been reliable: Company is known as 3R-Odorcon, 800.773.7116 or 775.841.1566, address is 2211 Mouton Dr., Unit I, Carson City, NV 89706. Current price for a quart is $21.05 plus tax?/shipping; July '07. I've converted numerous friends and all of them have stuck to the product.

    I quized the fellow marketing it about 10 years ago and asked why it wasn't found in RV stores any more and he explained that it lasts way too long and works too well for the stores to get you in to spend money as often as they like.

    I suspect the product is based on bleach similar to that suggested by blade 819 however, a quart of Odorcon can reside in your RV bathroom and no mixing with anything but water is necessary....breakemall....Bob Dodd
     
  5. BDodd

    BDodd TS Member

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    BTW, if you mix 1 part of Odorcon to 19 parts of water and put it into a spray bottle, you have a fabulous odor killer for home or RV - just don't spray it directly on fabrics.

    It also works just like in the black tank to sweeten the gray water tanks which might be desireable once a year or so.....Bob Dodd
     
  6. C H S

    C H S TS Member

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    <I>"It also works just like in the black tank to sweeten the gray water tanks which might be desireable once a year or so."</I>

    It may work, but since my gray tank is never open to the interior (water in all the traps, ya know) I never smell it so there's no reason to waste money trying to keep it smelling like something beside a gray water tank.

    If you read the web site for the Odorcon stuff, they want you to let the tanks get full if you use their product to control odors. One of the better ways to control black tank odor if you're using hookups is to start with the tank about a quarter full of water, use clorox or TST, and empty the tank every few days. Don't sit parked with the black tank drain open. I also wash it with dog kennel cleaner once during a trip and then again before I head home.

    Andy
     
  7. SirMissalott

    SirMissalott Active Member

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    poop-be-gone
     
  8. recurvyarcher

    recurvyarcher Well-Known Member

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    Andy, I admire your knowledge about RVs. I've learned a lot you from in the last few days. I, for one, would like to thank you for your input. It really helps those of us that are new at this.

    You should be our ts.com RV mentor.
     
  9. BDodd

    BDodd TS Member

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    C H S I have no arguement with your remarks but if you've never had the gray water traps begin to emit disagreeable odors, then you've been lucky. The wife and I wipe plates and cooking tools with paper towels to ensure the minimum of food and such going into the gray water tanks but even the hand soap in the shower and dish soap in the kitchen will, at times, sour in the traps and tanks. Trust me, a 1/2 oz of Odorcon in each gray water trap and tank, annually, does not feel like you're wasting a significant amount of product or money. And, yes, the producer of Odorcon does recommend at least one treatment of the product and filling the tank then driving around to ensure a good coating of the full tank before dumping but I've never gone to that extreme and never, ever had any disagreeable odors (or perfume smells either) from any of my black water tanks. We charge it with 1 oz or 1.5 oz of product, fill and flush the toilet twice, and forget it until the next time to dump and recharge.

    Your advice to NOT leave the black water valve open at a camp site should be etched in every brain of an RV owner. Dumping a black water tank is done when the tank needs dumping and all at once. I won't even leave the sewer valve open for showers and kitchen waste just because I want that gray water to clean out the dump hose after dumping the black. Besides, having the sewer dump open at a camp site can cause considerable odor in the area of your camp.

    Without any arguing with anyone, really, gang, I use the Odorcon, 1 to 1.5 oz to a couple of full flushes of the toilet every time the tank is dumped and I never, ever have had to be concerned for "other" cleanings with dog kennel cleaner, bleach, dish soap, special timing, filling and dumping over and over or any other stuff.....My $.02 over a span of 20 years and 4 different RVs.....Bob Dodd
     
  10. C H S

    C H S TS Member

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    Dodd, I must have been lucky then because I've never had any odors from the traps in any of the RVs I've lived in...yeah, I lived in a couple for years before I bought my acreage in upstate PA. I don't know what you use for soap but I found that using transparent liquid body wash instead of soap goes a long way to eliminating trap odors because transparent body wash doesn't contain fats that feed bacteria in the trap.

    I don't doubt that you're satisfied with Odorcon and don't feel the need for other cleanings, but I find that I have less need for odor control if the tanks are clean. There well always be a lot of solid material that won't leave with the drainage and I find there's no better way to get it out than a good blast of water from a cleaning wand and a wash with a good cleaner.

    Looks to me like we're both aiming for the same thing: stink-free tanks. We just go about it differently.

    Andy
     
  11. BDodd

    BDodd TS Member

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    And the best part, Andy, is we're both successful. My main point is, however, it's one heck of a lot easier to have one quart of this product which performs it all than to home make a suitable concoction, perform additional cleanings, and so on. I'd guess you're 100% right that it's the soap used in the gray tanks being the main culprit for any odors there. But, I can only argue and win about so many items when dealing with "the boss"! Do, breakemall....Bob Dodd
     
  12. C H S

    C H S TS Member

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    Bob,

    I ordered a quart of Odorcon from Teresa out in Carson City this afternoon. Always open to try new things.

    Andy
     
  13. BDodd

    BDodd TS Member

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    Andy, as I hinted, I don't pay a lot of attention to all the recommendations. I've never "treated the tank" as they suggest, (an ounce or two and used to approaching full then drive a few miles before dumping) and I've just had perfect results. I certainly see no harm in doing as they say. Honestly, I've bought two used rigs and two new ones and with all 4 I've simply converted to Odorcon or started with it and made sure the tanks were relatively clean before treating them with 1 or 1.5 oz (depending on size of the tank) of Odorcon along with perhaps a gallon of water and moved on down the road. Whether I nearly fill the tank or only spend a weekend at a shoot, I'll generally drive all the way home, dump at home or at a convenient spot, re-treat with Odorcon, and store the rig. Two of the rigs have/had the flush out system where you can add fresh water while dumping and I see clear water whenever I do that. Odorcon suggests NOT using the flush out features saying it tends to rinse off the treatment of the tank. What I do works for me and that's all that counts here. I also use #8s and Imp. Mod. even at 25 and more yards - Oh yeah, and I like WD-40! <;-)....breakemall....Bob Dodd
     
  14. recurvyarcher

    recurvyarcher Well-Known Member

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    Andy, let me know how it works for you after you have tried it. Would like to know your opinion on which method is easiest (as long as both work equally well).
     
  15. C H S

    C H S TS Member

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    Recurvy,

    I can do that, but I'll tell you up front that I am interested in the product primarily for its odor control ability. If I read Bob's posts correctly he doesn't flush his tanks when he uses it. I can't get away with that. My waste tanks are shaped like a pair of breakdown gun cases: very long (6 feet) and very narrow (6 inches). Any solids that migrate to the opposite end from the drain valve are there for good unless I flush the tanks to move them. So my tanks will be getting flushed. I just want to see how good the Odorcon is at odor elimination in the meantime.

    Andy
     
  16. C H S

    C H S TS Member

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    <I>"...did you mean water softener, or fabric softener? And how much water?"</I>

    There was some guy named Geo years ago who insisted that if you put enough Calgon water treatment powder into a black tank that nothing would stick to the sides of the tank and you'd never have to rinse it. I think he owned stock in Calgon or something.

    He was one of the crowd that claimed that if you dumped a couple bags of ice cubes into your black tank a drove around that the ice would scrub the tank walls and clean it. If you want to see how well THAT works, fill a 60 quart ice chest about a third full of water and dump a couple pounds of ice cubes into the water. Wobble the chest around and watch the ice all collect in the middle, away from the walls.

    A cup of Clorox in a black tank will control odors until the chlorine is used up. Then you need more. I don't use Clorox though because it's mostly water and it has a limited shelf life. What I use is the chlorine crystals that are for hot tubs. It's sold as 99% sodium dichlor crystals at pool and spa stores. Add a no more than a level 1/2 teaspoon of crystals to a gallon of warm water and shake until dissolved. That gallon is enough to add to a 50 gallon black tank to control odor or a 50 gallon on-board water system to disinfect it (use half of the liquid in a 25 gallon tank). Sodium dichlor can also be used to chlorinate the water in your water tank and plumbing but at half the concentration just mentioned.

    You need to be careful with the concentration of chlorine you use in your waste tanks because concentrated chlorine will wreck the seals on the drain valves.

    Andy
     
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