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best glue to repair a cracked stock

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by Tripod, Feb 21, 2010.

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  1. Tripod

    Tripod Well-Known Member

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    I have an older BT-99 that has developed a small crack on the right top tang area. I want to try to insure that the crack does not get larger so I am planning on working some glue into the area. Anyone have any experience with something like this? The crack has just appeared so it should be fairly clean. I thought maybe I could expand the crack with a small wedge tapped in lightly or maybe an expandable device and then force glue in with compressed air or a small needle. All advice requested. Thanks.
     
  2. mixer

    mixer Well-Known Member

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    I think a "Crazy Glue" type product will work very well or any wood glue. Crazy Glues set very fast while a wood glue should be clamped together while setting.

    Eric
     
  3. PerazziBigBore

    PerazziBigBore TS Member

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    Acra Glass...
     
  4. wanderer

    wanderer Member

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    There is an extremely thin super glue, get it at a hobby shop, dries in second, or minutes depending on type. It is so thin will get in very small cracks. Works great. Put it in crack, put pressure on crack to close it, wipe off excess glue. Be carefull, glue will damage stock finish. G.E.G.
     
  5. GW22

    GW22 Active Member

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    Tripod:

    As a woodworker, I like Titebond Ultimate Wood Glue III. Click the link. I've tried polyurethanes like Gorilla Glue, but they aren't ideal for your problem because you need to moisten the surfaces evenly first, which would be difficult to do without getting too much water trapped. They are also an unbelievable pain to get off your skin.

    I would advise against prying on your wood because that will likely damage the edges. Maybe a small carved wooden wedge would work but be careful. Squirt some TBIII into the crack with a needle and, depending on where the crack is, try to use a soft-faced clamp, a strap clamp, etc. to hold it as far closed as possible while it dries. If a lot of force needed to be applied, don't remove the clamps for 48 hours. Otherwise, a couple of hours is enough clamp time. If you don't have an easy way to get your hands on a needle and applicator bottle, PM me your address and I'll send you one.

    -Gary
     
  6. Baron23

    Baron23 Well-Known Member

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    If it is a hairline crack type of situation, the advise about a thin super glue is a good one. It tends to be drawn in by capillary (sp?) action into the crack.

    If it is more than that, I suggest a good stock smith to pin (very small wood dowl) and glue it properly. The pin can often be put in from the inside of the inletting which sounds like your case in the tang area.

    Cheers
     
  7. Dennis DeVault

    Dennis DeVault Well-Known Member

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    One thing to look at is why the crack started. I would suspect that the wood has collapsed and the steel tang is now driving back into the wood. If you glue the stock and do not releive the wood behind the end of the tang it will crack again and cause a bigger problem. After you releive the wood glass bed the pressure block area in the back of the stock to stop further damage. You can buy a small repair kit of accu-glass and release agent from Brownells if you want to do the repair yourself.

    Dennis DeVault
     
  8. high 2

    high 2 Member

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    The super glue for the above reasons is the best treatment for the crack. However if thats all you`re going to do, it`s like putting a band-aid on skin cancer. There is a reason that the stock has cracked. The action needs to be checked to make sure the action is bedded properly. Send it to a pro and get ti fixed properly. Larry
     
  9. OldRemFan

    OldRemFan Member

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    If you want a bond that will actually hold, then I would recommend the Acraglas that is sold by Brownell's Inc. They also have a thinner that is available. The best way to get the mixture down into the crack in the stock, in my opinion, is with vacuum. A good vacuum cleaner may work if you don't have access to a vacuum unit or know an air conditioner repairman that will help you out. A heavy plastic bag to put the stock in should work if done properly. Put the mixture in and over the crack, kids playdough will work great for building a dam to keep the mixture where you need it, put the stock in the bag with the end sealed up around the vacumn hose and turn the unit on. That will remove any air from the crack and the outside pressure will replace the air that was in the crack with the glass mixture. A good vacuum for a two or three minutes should do the trick. Acraglass will bond to metal and about anything else so be sure to clean off the excess before it sets up on the outside.
     
  10. phirel

    phirel TS Member

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    The key to repairing the small crack is to get the glue on all of the two cracked surfaces. A thick material such as Acra Glass will not flow readily into a very small crack. I have used a good wood glue to repair such cracks. Others have used "super glue". The super glue will flow into a small space. The crack can be gently spread with a very thin piece of wood, a strong plastic wrapper (the kind that stuff comes in and you cant easily get open) or even heavy paper. I use wood glue simply because I have used it for years. I would relieve some of the wood between the tang and then bed the area with Acra Glass. The crack was most likely caused by some metal part hitting an area where the wood has been pushed back by recoil.

    Pat Ireland
     
  11. Spanky

    Spanky Active Member

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    Follow the directions that Gorilla Glue gives and it will work well.
     
  12. Tripod

    Tripod Well-Known Member

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    thanks for all the tips. The gun is a 1974 model that had not been shot a lot before I bought it and I shot it one short season at practice and the crack did not show up until after I had removed and replaced the stock for cleaning and lubrication. I now wonder if I didn't tighten the bolt too tight. It cracked after only a few rounds of shooting.
     
  13. rick979

    rick979 Active Member

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    Gorillas glue expands by 2 to 3 times volume when it dries and leaves a bulge of super hard dry glue as it pushes up and out of the top of the fissure. This expansion could further crack the stock and is nearly impossible to sand the excess without damaging surrounding stock finish which is much softer. Super glue would work structurally but will likely leave a chalky "haze" in the surrounding stock finish. This haze would likely look worse than the crack and to remove it would involve sanding down thru' the affected areas in the finish on the stock and we all know what that ends up looking like. When you removed and replaced the stock you may have left it too loose rather than too tight as it is hard to overtighten and crack a well bedded stock. Go slowly with this repair if you are going to do it yourself. If it was me I would let a pro tangle with it so that it would be strong and and not visible.
    Rick ~~~Texas
     
  14. vdt

    vdt Active Member

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    i have used Loctite 404, thin very strong ,and it works for me..it is a form of quick drying glue not a thread lock....vdt
     
  15. Anchorsteam

    Anchorsteam TS Member

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    To do it right, you might consider pinning it first. Acra-glas is a good product from Brownells when you finally clamp it.
     
  16. whiz white

    whiz white Strong Supporter of Trapshooting Banned

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    Ditto on the this super glue (cyanoacrylate), referred to as "CA.".

    I used it often for R/C planes and helicopters, and in gun stock work.

    There are a couple of types of CA: (1) the super liquid stuff, and what is called Gap Filling, which is of a thicker consistency. The first kind is best if you have a clean break and can match up the broken or cracked parts totally.

    I would refrain from using Gorilla glue because as it hardens, it expands.

    HOT STUFF is a registered trademark by Satellite City. Tower Hobbies sells it as do most hobby shops, hardware stores, etc. I order it in the 2 oz bottles and store them in the freezer. Tower has the Gap Filling on sale now for $4.99 for the 2 oz bottle - I know as I just got in 5 bottles today.

    Acetone is the remover for CA, and you can also buy an accelerator spray to MAKE the CA harden.

    WW
     
  17. Dave P

    Dave P TS Supporters TS Supporters

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    Rick: Thanks for your reply on Gorilla Glue. I often wondered if anyone used it and how it reacted.
     
  18. checker

    checker Member

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    Brownell's HOT STUFF is the correct product...Do a google search to find. THIS IS CORRECT PRODUCT for a crack....there are three thicknesses of HOT STUFF...thinest for tiny crack etc. There will be no "glue line" if done correctly.....the "glue line" is what you normally see with a crack repair. Set up is key and don't get it on your fingers! You'll be glued to the wood.
    Here is Copy & Paste from Brownell's with details on a shotgun forearm crack repair.

    When I had been taking the gun apart in a previous article, the forend cap had been rusted in place. In the process of trying to get it taken off, I had cracked the inside groove of the wooden forearm. This is the rounded section that the barrel is seated over. Since it had cracked the entire length of what little wood there was, I knew I’d need to glue it back together. I have some good strong Hot Stuff (#862-000-003). This is some pretty awesome glue and a very little of it goes a long way. (Just don’t glue your fingers to whatever you’re working on. This stuff is really strong!) All I had to do was brush the wood off a little bit to clear it of dust and then I carefully ran a small bead of the Hot Stuff down the piece.

    Then I wrapped it in an old towel for some padding and placed in my vice, slowly tightening it down to ensure the crack was sealed firmly. I had some Q-Tips handy and dipping one end in some solvent, I cleaned up the glue that had squished out of the crack on the inside of the wooden “tube” part of the forearm. I didn’t want any excess glue interfering with the operation of the forearm and magazine tube later on. Then, I let it dry and harden completely which took only a few minutes. I went ahead and left it in the vice for another hour just to make extra sure. But with Hot Stuff, you don’t have to wait long.
    PRODUCT INFO BELOW:

    HOT STUFF INSTANT GLUE
    Mfr:SATELLITE CITY
    Price:$0.00 - $10.99

    Made In The U.S.A.
    Products marked with the Stars and Stripes are proudly made in the U.S.A.
    Many customers have asked us to show which products are made in America, and we’ve begun working with our vendors to identify them. This information, however, is not available for all items nor does it imply that foreign merchandise is of lesser quality. We will continue to gather this information to assist our customers in making informed buying decisions, and will keep our website current with the latest information.

    Repairs Wooden Stocks, Fixes Gun Parts In As Little As Five Seconds
    Quick bonding, industrial-grade, cyanoacrylate adhesives make short work of clear finish filling, fiberglass and wooden stock repairs, sight mounting and general shop work. Bonds almost instantly to leather, vinyl, rubber, wood, laminates, plastic, fiberglass and Kevlar. Most repairs require only a drop. Original Formula - ultra thin; wicks into the smallest crack and bonds in only five seconds. Use to make invisible repairs on ­wooden stocks, and fill chips in clear finishes. Super “T” - Thick consistency to fill gaps and voids on rough surfaces. 10 to 25 second working time.

    SPECS: 1 oz. (28 g) or 2 oz. (28 g) wt. Applicator tip bottles
     
  19. FAT-BOY

    FAT-BOY TS Member

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    It all depends on what wood you have. Walnut is an oily wood and requires a glue for exotic woods. any woodworking magazine will have what you need.

    As for clamps, the best i have found is the rubber strap that the VA uses when taking my blood. Never leave there without my strap.

    Bobby
     
  20. Tripod

    Tripod Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for all the tips. I just ordered some HOT STUFF original!
     
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