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Beretta 68x Action Has anyone removed firing pins?

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by Bruce Em, Nov 21, 2012.

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  1. Bruce Em

    Bruce Em Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
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    Location:
    Upstate NY
    Hi,

    I am having sporatic misfires in my 682 that is worsening after 34,000 rounds

    I suspect some debris in FP channel; I have oiled and air blown with success in the past but it isnt helping now. Read some info on potential cocking rod drag slowing the hammers and I will check for that as well.

    I was able to drift the FP retention pin and back the pins out but the hammers blocked full removal. I could see the FP return spring and cleaned with solvent and air but would like to fully clean the hole but just how?.

    I dont want to disassemble the hammer assembly and now assume the trigger plate comes off to do that but havent tried it yet

    Any advice before I look again. Yes I am mechanically inclined thanks !
     
  2. wolfram

    wolfram Well-Known Member

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    Take a deep breath and relax.

    Now the best way to get at the pins is to drop out the trigger group intact. You can do it by removing the hammer springs and hammers to but this is a good time to take a good look at everything including the intertia block and reset spring.

    Start by removing the large screw that is forward of the trigger gaurd and is hlocked with a very small screw in its slot. Use exact fitting drivers for these screws.

    Now remove the safety button by driving out the cross pin just under the tang. With the safety selector out of the gun you will see the screw head of the screw that joins the upper and lower tang. Remove that and the grogger group will separate from the receiver. It may take a couple of taps with a small plastic hammer to get the separation.

    Now you can get to the firing pins and springs.

    Since you did all this work you may as well replace the hammer springs and inertia reset spring as well.

    The first time through is a little intimidating but just take your time and remember none of the operations really take force. Take a bunch of digital photos as you go in case you need a reminder for reassembly.

    Have fun ....
     
  3. unplugged

    unplugged Active Member

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    Feb 16, 2010
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    404
    If it were me ( and I have done it several times) It is faster and easier to remove the hammer springs with the hammers UNCOCKED, remove the hammer retaining pin and pull the hammers out. They will only come out ONE WAY, so remember which one came out first as that one will go in last. Once the hammers are out the firing pins are easy! And on messing around with the trigger plate removal!
     
  4. shot410ga

    shot410ga Well-Known Member

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    Buy the NRA assembly for rifles and shotguns. $23 at the NRA store. Pictures and instructions.
     
  5. Gapper

    Gapper TS Member

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    Not too difficult if you take your time. I don't remove the trigger group, just remove (edit: move them off the hammer) the hammer springs first. Those springs are captive on the rods, allowing the hammers (and pins) to rebound after firing.

    Push the hammers forward when they are in the fired position and you can ease the hammer spring rods off. The rest is pretty staightforward. These guns are known for cushioned firing pin blows, especially the lower barrel. Regards, GAP
     
  6. Bruce Em

    Bruce Em Member

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    Do I have to remove the crimped main spring "nuts"?

    thanks
     
  7. Gapper

    Gapper TS Member

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    No. All you want to do is get the springs off of the hammers.
     
  8. unplugged

    unplugged Active Member

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    I use a small (3 inch channel locks and rag on the front of the hammer springs. Pull them out of the hammer notch. Also keep each hammer spring on the same side as removed!!
     
  9. Bruce Em

    Bruce Em Member

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    Well, that was easy ! (Sort of)

    Decocked hammers allowed sliding the mainspring and spring guide back and off the hammers. It then came forward, out of the rear mount eyelet.

    Hammers can stay in place. Upper solid cross pin allows upper pin to come out

    The Lever catch is on that pin as well and has to come out; lotsa small parts there folks ! Didn't lose them

    Lower pin then come out with removal of roll pin from left to right.

    Cleaned up the rust & junk. Will test soon

    thanks!
     
  10. cafowler

    cafowler Member

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    Which barrel is the misfire coming from most often, bottom?

    It may be time to replace the bottom firing pin, assuming you always shoot singles from the bottom, that pin will mushroom faster the top. While it is apart compare the two pins as close as you can. I had the Beretta factory smiths at a shoot check mine after noticing the same thing, took a whole summer to realize it was always the bottom barell. The smith showed me the two pins, and to him it was clearly mushroomed, to me I had to look really close, set them side by side on the table. He said it doesn't take much mushrooming to cause the lite hits. Might as well check this while you have it all open. If you can find a big shoot near you where the factory smith's are going to be there, it's worth the effort to go, just to get your gun in to them for a once over. Their rates are very good when they're at the big shoots!!! More of a customer appreciation gesture.

    Hope this helps.
     
  11. CalvinMD

    CalvinMD Well-Known Member

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    Curious what make ammo you are using..a few of us with different guns are currently experiencing problems with hard primers in Estate shells
     
  12. Bruce Em

    Bruce Em Member

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    Almost exclusively Fiocchi primers in both Federal and Gun Club hulls (differend load levels yes). I have used easily 30,000 of them. I had trouble with hard PMC's in all my guns and never used again. Yes it is possible to have a few that are out of hardness spec but I place that factor low.

    I thought initially that the Fed heads may have been slightly dished but they were not, nor were any primers seated "too" deep. They were all reloaded on MEC presses only and can not dish there. I doubt excess headspace but it is possible that particular rim was thin. I didnt have the forethought to cull that hull and retest for failure.

    There was rust and crud in the channel that may have retarded the strike and dirt in the cocking rod channel may also have meant the hammer was driving that forward too. Will test tomorrow; have 0.060 FP protrusion now and smooth function. I think moisture comes from combustion and is driven back into every imaginable place.

    regards
     
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