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beretta 682 ???

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by billyboy07208, Jan 30, 2011.

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  1. billyboy07208

    billyboy07208 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    571
    just bought this comp o/u and it looks like it came out of a time machine,case papers etc mfg 1993.
    it shoots just fine and goes bang everytime.

    i noticed that the bottom firing pin rebounds back into the reciever and the top pin stays protruded after they are released.is this in order to make clearance for the swinging barrels upon opening??
    maybe need a new hammer spring on the bottom bbl?

    also i noticed one cocking rod seems to have a light return spring and the other one is just sliding freely in there.they dont fall out,and the hammers are getting cocked.i wonder if this is something that is done to 682 comp guns for easier opening at the games?

    maybe I just answered my own question,but thanks to all reply`s

    billy
     
  2. mag410

    mag410 Active Member

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    Location:
    NE Mississippi
    Both firing pins should retract. The top barrel hammer spring adjustment nut is probably either broken of loose. This allows the spring to push the hammer forward which makes the firing pin protrude. This is one of the more common issues with 682's. It does not disable the gun and other than dragging across the case head does not hurt anything. But I suppose if ignored long enough it might damage the tip of the firing pin. I have replaced several through the years and would say on average about 50,000 rounds. Beretta has redesigned this part, and the improved design seems to hold up better.

    The other "common" problems are the inertia block and trigger return springs which break on occasion. I know people who have replaced these springs, but I have never had one break in several hundred thousand rounds.

    Michael Goines
     
  3. GunDr

    GunDr Well-Known Member

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    Both cocking rods need to have spring pressure. If they are not spring loaded forward, they can impede the speed of the hammers causing misfires. One of two things are causing the rod to float back and forth...1)missing spring and/or plunger or 2)the return plunger is stuck in the hole. Highly likely this is the case.

    Michael is correct about the firing pin issue. Someone either installed a new mainspring assy incorrectly, or the nut on the end of the rod broke off. Both hammers need to rebound enough to allow the firing pin tips to just rest within the receiver's face.

    Doug
     
  4. magnumshot

    magnumshot Active Member

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    Wonderful trap gun. Find someone to show you how to change a hammer spring guide assembly, or have someone check yours out. They are supposed to be adjusted when installing and then locked in place. The firing pin shouldn't remain out. Look at cole's site to see a spare parts kit for a 680. If you are competing and shooting a lot, you'll want to have a spare.
     
  5. billyboy07208

    billyboy07208 Member

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    well looking over it again,it is the top bbl cocking rod,the "free" play is like a 1/16" of an inch,the amount some spring pressure should keep it forward-like the other one.

    the top bbl firing pin retracts readily upon opening the action an 1/4".I havnt examined any fired hulls for Pin drag,the protrusion is .030", and pushing on it -the spring is stout.

    could this be simply old dried grease? i mean it was said 1000 rounds were put thru it in its entire existence,and i believe it= no blue wear\ all gold shiny new in the trigger,no blue wear on the bbl locking studs,no wear on the jeweled monobloc etc? even the pad is old and hard.
     
  6. billyboy07208

    billyboy07208 Member

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    thanks you guys nailed it,I took off the stock to have a gander,and can see the cocking lever plunger is jammed in there, and can also see the nut on the hammer spring shaft wasnt cranked in enuf before crimping,allowing the hammer face to bottom out the firing pin.
     
  7. billyboy07208

    billyboy07208 Member

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    Update,thanks all! I was able to uncrimp the nut enuf to screw it in further and recrimped with vise grips.top hammer now rebounds as the bottom hammer does ,
    and they both rest in the same position.

    Now the other bugaboo which is the plunger and spring for the cocking lever which is jammed up in its tunnel.may have to drill it out??
    i will order this part or maybe machine a new one [im a machinist 8) ],
    but I need to know how to get off the triggerplate screw.I removed the lock screw,but the main screw aint budging,I have brownells thin blade driver bits etc.' what is the trick here?
    cock the hammers first? a little heat on the screw? rubber mallet taps on the tang?
    what gives??

    thanks all youve been so generous!
     
  8. wolfram

    wolfram Well-Known Member

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    6,258
    The big screw can be stressed from the screw on the opposite end of the reciever. This screw is hidden under the safety button which is removed by driving out a small pin on the tang of the selector. The main screw should now be easier to break loose, you migth want to give your driver a tap or two with a nylon hammer to set the bit and break what ever friction lock that migfht be there.

    Now when you talk about machining stuff away, better think that through really well. Its a lot harder to put metal back and most of the guns I have been into already have had enough taken away.
     
  9. billyboy07208

    billyboy07208 Member

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    thanks I kinda figured it may be the other screw stressing the plate itself.

    b
     
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