1. Attention: We have put together a thread with tips and a tutorial video to help with using the new software. Please take a moment to check out the thread here: Trapshooters.com Tutorial & Help Video.
    Dismiss Notice

Applying tru-oil?

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by Barrelbulge(Fl), Feb 4, 2012.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. Barrelbulge(Fl)

    Barrelbulge(Fl) TS Supporters TS Supporters

    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2007
    Messages:
    11,679
    Location:
    West Central Florida
    I have been reconstructing a model 32 K-gun. I got some new K-80 wood for it but it is not hi-gloss. What is the formula for mixing tru oil, with what, to get my hi-gloss finish. Thanks, Mike.
     
  2. ebsurveyor

    ebsurveyor Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    950
    Location:
    PA
    Rub tru oil into the wood with your fingers. Let dry. Rub with very fine steel wool. Repeat repeat repeat repeat. As the finish builds up don't rub as hard. After six or ten rub downs apply two or three or four coats with no rubbing. If the finish looks good you are finished. If not rub with steel wool and apply more oil.
     
  3. Barrelbulge(Fl)

    Barrelbulge(Fl) TS Supporters TS Supporters

    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2007
    Messages:
    11,679
    Location:
    West Central Florida
    So I don't have to mix the tru oil with mineral spirits or anything? Thanks, Mike.
     
  4. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2009
    Messages:
    17,232
    Location:
    IL(The gun friendly Southern Part)
    Mike,

    Use it full strength. When you are finished with the stock, thin it down with Mineral spirits 50/50 and do the checkering. Worked for me.


    grntitan_2009_250326.jpg


    I didn't use steel wool. I wet sanded mine between coats with 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper. Then on the last few coats i went to 2000 grit and wet sanded it.
     
  5. Ontario Chris

    Ontario Chris Member

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2006
    Messages:
    439
    Location:
    NY Finger Lakes
    Could I use Tru-Oil to get a satin/oil look finish like is found on the Beretta guns?

    Chris
     
  6. MDMike

    MDMike Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2011
    Messages:
    1,239
    Yes Chris, you can. Knock the shine off with 0000 steel wool after the last coat is applied. I love working with Tru-Oil. Stock refinish in a bottle. I have used it on several guns with good results.
     
  7. chuckie68

    chuckie68 Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2012
    Messages:
    1,839
    Location:
    Royal Oak, Michigan
    Use the palm of the hand and refind your PATIENCE. It takes a lot of time but well worth the effort. I have a stock that I finished with Tru-oil in about 1972 and it still looks good.
    Chuck
     
  8. Smokechaser

    Smokechaser TS Member

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2011
    Messages:
    94
    Tru-Oil....simple to use, and simply the best final results. The last stock I did took fifteen coats (15), but it turned out beautiful. You must, nevertheless, retrace your checkering upon completetion, or tape it off before you begin. Retracing the checkering, in my opinion, works the best and gives the best final finish....good luck....
     
  9. Smokechaser

    Smokechaser TS Member

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2011
    Messages:
    94
    Be sure to seal the checkering once you've retraced it....sorry, I forgot to add that last post....
     
  10. Trail

    Trail Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    250
    How specifically do you “retrace” the checkering?

    I’ve got an old Gamba I’d like to refinish....
     
  11. Bvr Tail

    Bvr Tail Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    1,924
    A couple more questions on Tru-Oil....

    How long have you had to wait between coats? (I am having trouble with it balling-up as I lightly smooth it out with OOOO steel wool)

    I apply a small coat with my hand and put wood in a warm place to dry, but sometimes even after 2-3 days drying, it still seems tacky?

    I pre-heat bottle a bit in a small pan of warm water.

    After finished, do any of you rub or buff it out, and what with.

    Do you use any stock wax afterward (like BW Casey's Stock Wax, or other)

    Thanks for all the good info.

    Danny
     
  12. Brian in Oregon

    Brian in Oregon Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    25,254
    Location:
    Deplorable Bitter Clinger in Liberal La La Land
    As Chuck said, use PATIENCE. I let my stocks dry a week between coats. If it takes less than a month, and preferably two, to finish a stock, then you're rushing it. Take your time and you will be rewarded with an outstanding finish.

    And where are you letting the stocks dry? If they're in an unheated garage, that won't work this time of year. They need to be around room temp. Trouble is wives don't like to smell them drying, but the stocks need to be inside.
     
  13. Bvr Tail

    Bvr Tail Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    1,924
    I am drying in house at 71 degrees, for 2-3 days.

    I'll let it dry longer between coats as suggested.

    Do you buff the last coat, and if so, do you lightly scuff with 0000 before buffing, and what compound do you use?

    Danny
     
  14. timb99

    timb99 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    7,332
    Location:
    Shawnee, Kansas, USA
    Do you need checkering tools to retrace the checkering?
     
  15. GunDr

    GunDr Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    2,913
    If its drying too slow, you may be applying too heavy of a coat. I too like to use the ball area of my thumb to rub in the Tru-oil. You should rub the oil until you can feel some heat on your hand. This is how thinned out the coat should be.

    during dry summer days, I'll put the stock outside to let it dry. Doing this will allow me to sometimes apply two coats in a day.

    One more thing...do not use a bottle that has been opened several times over a couple of months. Most of the dryer will have evaporated, slowing the drying time.

    Doug
     
  16. Smokechaser

    Smokechaser TS Member

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2011
    Messages:
    94
    Use very thin coats -- mine dry in approx 2-3 hours. Work out lightly with OOOO aluminium or steel wool (I prefer the aluminium for obvious reasons)...

    Yes, you must use checkering tools to retrace...

    Make sure you are using Tru-Oil and not Tung Oil. Tung oil takes weeks to dry properly, even with thin coats. I did 15 coats of Tru-Oil to a finished stock in 3 days. Do not rub out last coat unless you want a satin finish. Apply a museum quality wax of microcrystalline wax to buff and protect. Available from Brownell's -- expensive at $24/7 oz....

    Good luck....
     
  17. Smokechaser

    Smokechaser TS Member

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2011
    Messages:
    94
    Use very thin coats -- mine dry in approx 2-3 hours. Work out lightly with OOOO aluminium or steel wool (I prefer the aluminium for obvious reasons)...

    Yes, you must use checkering tools to retrace...

    Make sure you are using Tru-Oil and not Tung Oil. Tung oil takes weeks to dry properly, even with thin coats. I did 15 coats of Tru-Oil to a finished stock in 3 days. Do not rub out last coat unless you want a satin finish. Apply a museum quality wax of microcrystalline wax to buff and protect. Available from Brownell's -- expensive at $24/7 oz....

    Good luck....
     
  18. Stl Flyn

    Stl Flyn Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2010
    Messages:
    8,741
    Wow, those must be very thin coats. I have yet to find any Tru-Oil that dries that fast. Not saying it doesn't. I spray on my Tru-Oil, so maybe it is a heavier coat, requiring 24 hours to dry.

    I use wet sandpaper of fine grit, 1000 or so. I sand the stock every 4-5 coats, depending on the dust particles. I use very little water, just enough to get it smooth and wipe off the excess with a rag. Kind of acts as a tack cloth at the same time. This way I do not have to deal with all of the wool particles. If I am looking for a satin finish I just use a heavier grit buffing compound (Brownells number three). For the shinny or gloss finish, I use headlight polish last, or Brownells number five. Prefer the headlight polish. Then a coat of Liquid Glass car polish. Just different methods to achieve the same results.

    Update: I forgot to mention that you have to let the stock cure for two weeks after the final coat. Then a light sanding with 2000 grit wetsandpaper. Then buff and polish.
     
  19. minnship8

    minnship8 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2011
    Messages:
    1,115
    So if I tape off the checkering and do the smooth wood, and then come back to do the checkering with a mineral spirits 50/50 mix, do I then tape off outside the checkering where I've already finished?

    Thanks,
    Chip
     
  20. Stl Flyn

    Stl Flyn Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2010
    Messages:
    8,741
    You can usually wipe off the excess, or overrun area. Just go around the edge with a very light amount of mineral spirits on a rag edge. Then wipe with a dry rag. Usually you will get a little saturation under the tape. Easier just to apply with a small artists brush and wipe off the excess. Jon
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
Search tags for this page

tru oil temp to use at

,

applying truoil

,

beretta tru oil

,

do i use tru oil on checkering

,

heat tru oil before appying

,

how long should tru-oil sit before final rub

,

how to use beretta true oil

,

should you put tru oil over checkering