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Any Roofers out there? Need Info on a Roof Problem

Discussion in 'For Sale- Members only' started by Auctioneer, Jan 3, 2010.

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  1. Auctioneer

    Auctioneer Well-Known Member

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    I have a metal roof with tar paper under the metal and OSB boarding on the trusses. Inside I want to put R-13 insulation on the trusses to keep the heat in. Is that a good idea or not. I was going to staple the paper part to the trusses with the insulation to the OSB boarding. I was told to be carefull about condisation(sp). If that is going to be a problem then how do I insulate the shop?
     
  2. OGC Director

    OGC Director TS Member

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    Why only R13? Go with R30 paper down and install insulation vent at soffit. Make sure insulation is not in contact with osb. As per brother builderman.
     
  3. ricks1

    ricks1 TS Member

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    bottom of truss is fine You are going to have problems if you dont have venting under the osb it will sweat with a snow on the metal..
    Many are doing the metal on tar paper and on direct shingles In 10 years you are going to have a major problem from the metal rusting around the screws
     
  4. copper

    copper Member

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    Is building going to be heated r 13 is for walls 2 by 4 ,s unless you are going to heat space I would not insulate and insulation is used to maintain tempeture so cold will stay or heat , ceiling is most important for heat heat rises cold goes down. venting of a roof works like drawing air from sofit to ridge heat rising. Gable end vents cross venting. How high is roof is there going to be a flat ceiling trusses that is ware you would insulate not at roof sheathing waste of money way up there
     
  5. andybull

    andybull Active Member

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    This is what I have been considering. Icynene® Spray Foam Insulation, or a similar product.

    Andy
     
  6. Fireball

    Fireball Member

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    You didn't say where you were located so I'm not sure how cold it will get but I would use the building for a while, with a fire in your stove, then make a determination as to how much insulation you will need. That woodstove may just drive you out if you're not careful.

    I have a hunting camp in the Adirondacks with zero insulation in it and once the camp warms up its very warm. With the temp in the 20's I have had to, more than once, open a window to "cool" things down.

    Kick your woodstve first and you may find you won't even need insulation. With the stove located in one end, the other end of your building will be a colder. A small fan or two in the trusses would also help draw the heat back down where you need it, but frankly I think you will be as snug as a bug in a rug.

    Dave
     
  7. Auctioneer

    Auctioneer Well-Known Member

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    I'm in central Va, the past week we have had been in the low 30's most of the time and low's have been 15 to 24 at night. I have seen it here of a high not getting out of the teens for a month for a days high.
    I have cranked up the stove to the point that the cast iron sides were glowing red. It was still cool to the point you needed a coat inside the shop. I have 6 windows, a back door and a 16 foot garage door to open if it gets to hot.
     
  8. Seth Bagwell

    Seth Bagwell TS Member

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    I was also told not to attach insulation to the osb b/c of condensation. There is a foam spacer availabe from lowes that goes between the osb and the insulation to provide an air gap between the two, if you go that route. I know it's used on a vaulted ceiling. May get expensive putting it all the way from the soffit to the peak of the roof. I'm not a carpenter, just something I learned about when finishing my upstairs room....
     
  9. ontarioshooter98

    ontarioshooter98 TS Member

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    You have two choices, spray foam is alot more expensive but you can attain a higher R=value while maximizing your space. The other is creating an airspace to seperate heat from cold, the above post mentioned a system that is very effective but expensive only because you need to vent each space between the trusses. If you ever build another, ask your carpenter to install 2x2 crossed over the trusses to create cross ventilation, and install some roof vents and you will never have a problem, inexpensive and maximized space. I own a roofing company in Toronto, Ontario if it makes you feel a little more comfortable. Shoot well.

    Jake Rosmaninho
     
  10. copper

    copper Member

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    Do yor self a favor and sheet rock ceiling rent a lift sheetrock is cheap for most part and insulate the flat ceiling R19 or 30 I have had a few wood stove that one pitured is not a big heat giver, Look on Cragis list for bigger better unit they always some for sale. By the time the heat gets to your rafters you have lost it and as I say paper towards heat.
     
  11. short shucker

    short shucker TS Member

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    I helped rehab an old building/shop at my buddies place some time ago. We hung flat 4x8 sheets of Celotex from the bottom of the rafters and along the sides. These were hung so that the shinny side was visible to help refract the light and make the shop brighter. We taped up the seams when we finished. That was 15 years ago and that shop still stays plenty warm with a small wood stove burning.

    ss
     
  12. ric3677

    ric3677 Well-Known Member

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    I am a contractor, been one for longer than I care to admit.
    #1 problem with people is that they have to much "stuff". That being said, the trusses aren't designed to hold stuff up....only keep the roof from falling in. You can check with any truss manufacturer. They will tell you the same thing. You are much better off making some sort of storage shed...even if it's attached to one wall of the shop.

    As far as the insulating part, you are supposed to insulate the ceiling, not the roof. The flat part, not the pitched part. You will have much less area to heat that way. If the soffit is vented and you have a ridge vent you shouldn't have moisture problems at all. If you don't and you want to heat the inside, I would recommend that you take the ridge off and cut a slot from one end to the other on the ridge and reinstall the ridge with a vented type and also to vent the soffit.

    Good luck in your project.

    Rick in Mt.
     
  13. M Wayne

    M Wayne TS Member

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    I built a shed 28x36 seven years ago. I have the same type roof system that you do. Your best bet to use the stove pictured is to sheetrock the ceiling with 5/8 rock then go in with no less than R/19 insulation. I used blow in celulose in my ceiling. I feel that the blowin does a better job of sealing. You might find that if you put a heat reclaimer in your flu pipe you will get alot more of the heat going into the shed instead of out the chimney. I have been in the construction business for over thirty years. I have a good idea of what works. Hope this helps.
     
  14. andybull

    andybull Active Member

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    Please excuse my statement, it is not meant to offend anyone. Builders, especially old time ones will sometimes speak negatively, or out of turn regarding modern and most of the time better and more efficient methods of construction.

    When I brought up to the Village of Islamorada that the new, more efficient way to insulate an attic was to blow, open or closed cell foam on the sheathing and seal an attic with no ventilation, they said that was against the code and this new method would not work. This method is very common in our area now that the building department officials received training and attended seminars.

    It is better to read and learn new methods, or go to continuing education classes, than to sound old, archaic and somewhat retarded by saying that something won't work and be totally wrong in your statement.
     
  15. quartering

    quartering Active Member

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    looks as if you already have some owens corning on the walls. give them a call, see what they say. good luck with it
     
  16. STOS

    STOS Member

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    You do not want to put a vapor barrier in the ceiling.The best way to take care of your needs now is to nail on your ceiling be it drywall or waferboard and blow in insulation.then install a couple of 18" gable end vents to let out any moisture.
     
  17. 320090T

    320090T Well-Known Member

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    Get a bigger stove for sure!
     
  18. Neal Crausbay

    Neal Crausbay Member

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    A Texas joke.

    What did Davy Crockett say when he looked out from the Alamo at Santa Anta's army?


    "Where did all those roofers come from?"
     
  19. hammer-time

    hammer-time TS Member

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    those trusses won't support much weight for storage anyhow. Put the ceiling up. If you insulate, make sure as you were told that the OSB needs ventilation if you want to use roll type or rigid foam (expensive) insulation between the trusses. You don't want your insulation sitting directly against it or it will rot. You'll have insulation falling very quickly from the damp weight. You'll receive much more benefit installing a ceiling with no insulation rather than insulate the way you are talking.
     
  20. Haskins Bill

    Haskins Bill TS Member

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    You will have a time stapeling insulaton to those 'W' trusses. Think about it for a minute or two. Every place there is a a W brace that connects to the actual rafter you are most likely have a hole to let heat escape. Ditto in keeping the isnuation away from the OSB and providing air flow to the ridge vent. I second the motion to just drywall or OSB the " stringers'. there is not a lot of storage space in a 'W' type of truss either. If doing it again purchase or make 'attic' type of trusess. The area in the center of the 'W' trusses is okay for 'balloon' type of items. Lawn chairs, ice chests etc. Around here OSB 'N. Ohio' 7/16 OSB is only about $5.00 a sheet and a heck of lot cheaper/easier to use than drywall. When using foam board sheets to do a flat ceiling I do believe it is not up to most fire codes if it is not covered even if it is foil face. You can always spray paint the OSB to brighten up the inside of the building also.
    Ditto on the foam vent pieces to put at the eaves to keep the insulation from blocking the airfow from the soffit to the peak if you decide to put in a flat ceiling. A side note: Taht box stove is okay but at least in Ohio the bottom of a fire box needs to be at least 18" above the floor if in a garage or a building that will house an internal combustion engine vehicle/machinery. Again think about, it what do you see in a house garage that has a gas water heater in the garage? The water heater is on a stand of some sort. Pleas check it out about the 18 inch rule. It might save you some grief it ever a fire and the stove is too close to the floor. Your insurance might not pay off. I found this out years ago while visiting a local mechanic. I asked him why he had a huge old coal furnace up on a platform of conrete blocks. The answer was the insurance Co/ fire code required it! Bill
     
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