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AA HS HULL PROBLEMS

4K views 8 replies 8 participants last post by  TexasJohnO 
#1 ·
I will apologize on the front end of this thread since I know this topic has been discussed before. Has anybody foud a suitable replacement for the Winchester aa12 wad in the hs hulls. I am reloading with winchester primers, aa12 wads and 1 1/8 oz. of shot. Never had a problem with the silver bullets. My PW900 Elite doesn't like them in the new gray color. What have others done. Also, if it is an adjustment to the machine, what do you do?
 
#2 ·
What i have found to be the biggest adjustment is simply the size of the pre-crimp opening,start where a pencil eraser will fit inside and if you still have a hole in the center adjust it down a tad and try again,this works on my pw 2000 anyway, i have it set now where i can load new aa, old aa, red,silver, gray and most come out just fine. Some say pay attention to wad pressure,mec machines must have a wad pressure reading on them somewhere i guess but my pw dosent,but you can check to see if a wad is set enough by simply using a pencil eraser to make sure it dosent move at that station when the handle is down from underneath,but again i dont think it matters much because i think the final cripming will finish setting the wad if it needs it.

Bill
 
#3 ·
I think that your best course is to switch to Remington STS,Nitro,Gun Club, etc shells.

With a PW or Spolar loader the hull is held by the die and the primer is pushed into the hull with no pressure pushing down on the separate base wad. This could lead to the primer lifting the base wad allowing powder to flow under the base wad. This in turn will often lead to the base wad shooting out of the hull and then possibly lodging in your barrel.

If you are going to reload the 2 piece Win AA hull please make it a habit to ALWAYS look down the barrel(s) before dropping the next shell in. I would also avoid loading any "new" AA shells that the printed AA on the shell is in a box. These were the first hulls and there have been many instances where the base wad separated from the shell.

Jason
 
#4 ·
I use a PW900 Elite with new AA hulls and WT12 wads or WAA12SL wads. I raised the wad ram up a little so it doesn't crush the wad and lowered the crimp starter so it leaves a pencil sized hole before the crimp station. The newer Winchester wads have 4 vertical grooves in them to allow air to escape when seating the wad onto the separate base wad. I had more troubles with the soft older silver bullets getting smashed crimps because of the soft plastic.
 
#5 ·
I successfully load both AA wads and the Claybuster wads with no problems on my PW 2000. As others have suggested, raise (not lower) the wad ram, crimp starter and final crimp dies just a little. Play with these adjustments until you get a perfect crimp without smashing the shell in the middle. The basic problem is that the final crimp die smashes the new shells too much. Solution is not to smash it so much.

Pat Ireland
 
#8 ·
I once cut a couple new AA 1 1/8, 2 3/4 dram shells open to see what was going on inside and I found that the powder in the new shells is both fine-grained and well compressed by the wad. The OEM powder charge weighed right on 16.2 grains and occupied 1.8 ml (cc), correctly settled in a graduated cylinder of appropriate size. The same weight of Clays, for example, occupied 2.2 ml (cc) in the same cylinder. Given the larger volume of powder and the fact that the petals of the OEM wad were already right up to the crimp (as was the shot) with the factory powder, it makes sense that it would require more pressure to seal the hull and that would tend to buckle the side walls.

Morgan
 
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