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90t Problems

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by POWDER RIVER, Feb 3, 2009.

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    Jan 29, 1998
    I shot my 90t last night for the first time and
    had a couple of problems.

    1. I tried new and reloads, and a number of shells
    the primer had a slight dent, but failed to fire.

    2. I wish to disable the ejector and only lift the shell.

    If anyone has had the same problems or has an idea I
    would appreciate the help.


  2. cubancigar2000

    cubancigar2000 Well-Known Member

    Jan 29, 1998
    Doug Braker will respond hopefully
  3. Donm

    Donm Active Member

    Jan 29, 1998
    First problem you probably need a new hammer spring.

    The second one I'm sure Doug can answer better.
  4. GunDr

    GunDr Well-Known Member

    Jan 29, 1998
    If the cocking rod moves freely, a hammer spring should cure the problem.

    Here's the instructions for convert a 90-t from eject to extract....

    Rem 90-T......from ejector to extractor

    1- Remove trigger assy.

    2- Remove RH sideplate

    3- Near lower edge of the RH sideplate cut-out, you will find two holes. One will have a roll pin in it,and the other will have a set-screw. This will be the deeper looking hole. Remove this screw using a .050" allen wrench.

    4- With screw removed, the ejector trip rod (the smaller of the two rods) can be pulled from the front of the receiver.

    5- Replace the set screw....so it doesn't get lost. Replace the sideplate and trigger assy.

    *Doing just the above, the ejector/extractor will only rise about 1/8". This is the same distance the ejector/extractor will rise, as if the gun is opened unfired.

    *The following will allow the ejector/extractor to rise the same as if the gun is opened, after it it has been fired.

    1- Do steps 1-5 above.

    2- Remove forend from gun. The wood does not need to be removed from forend iron.

    3- Located on the top side of the forend iron, near the joint roll (large curved area), you will find a set screw. Remove this set screw using a .050" allen wrench.

    4- Removing the above screw will allow the ejector pivot pin to be slid out of the hole...from left to right. There is no need to remove this pin all the way. Push it out enoungh to remove the ejector sear and it's spring. The ejector sear is the squarish block that pivots in the forend.

    5- Once the ejector sear and spring have been removed, push the pivot pin back into place (flush on each end) and replace the set screw, so it doesn't get lost.

    Keep all of the parts you now have removed in a safe place, and also remember that safe place.

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