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2007 Toyota 4Runner problems- Oil sludge?

Discussion in 'Off Topic Threads' started by DelarockX, Dec 27, 2012.

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  1. DelarockX

    DelarockX TS Member

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    So... My check engine light went on today. I was due for maintenance and went to the dealership. They told me that I had some sort of pervasive oil sludge problem and the engine would need to be rebuilt. Few questions-

    1) Engine sludge requiring a rebuild- Is this legit? Has anyone heard of this before?

    2) How much should this type of thing run me? Their price quote was pretty high even by my estimates. I'll tell you how much they quoted me after I get a few guesses as to how much it should be.

    3) Does anyone know any other sort of corrective measure that I can take to sort this out?

    Here's what I know, and I'll be happy to answer any questions you may have. Right now, the engine light is off. They said that the oil level was near empty. They topped it off and turned the light off, so I'm waiting to see how long before it goes back on. The car is a 2007 4Runner, 6 cyl, 95000 miles. Oil changes every 4-6 month, not driving the car hard, just under 15k miles a year. The car has been and currently is running normally as far as I can tell.

    Thanks in advance for your help.
     
  2. yakimaman

    yakimaman Well-Known Member

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    So the symptoms are? Any engine in need of rebuild is going to be causing some visible issues.
     
  3. JH

    JH Well-Known Member

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    Get a second opinion!
     
  4. missemucho

    missemucho Member

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    Check out this link; especially noting the engine parts that "have to be replaced".
    Before this I had only heard about the 4 cylinder having the problem.

    http://www.toyoland.com/sludge.html
    John
     
  5. slayer

    slayer Well-Known Member

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    Ok the oil was nearly empty on a motor with 95000 miles on it. You say you were changing the oil every 4-6 mo? And the filter? This is a sick motor or your not doing the changes as often as you say. that motor should not be using more than a couple quarts a year. Even if it's using more than that, just drive it if it's running ok. the motor should be good for 250k without a rebuild. Change your oil at 3-4000. That will eliminate any sludge buildup problems or other dirty oil problems such as timing gear wear. probably 2k estimate on rebuild at a dealership. Bill
     
  6. dougp

    dougp TS Member

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    Why are you bothering people on this website about auto problems call a mechanic I don,t call a mechanic when I have problems with my guns
     
  7. Shooting Sailor

    Shooting Sailor Well-Known Member

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    The V6 Toyotas have head gasket problems. Your sludge could be emulsified oil from the water getting into the oil when you shut off your engine. Unless you have a cracked block (unlikely), I would look at this first. Have a compression test done on each cylinder to see if you have a low compression cylinder, and if they are all good, a bleed down test to see if they all hold pressure.

    You say your oilpan was nearly empty. Is there blue smoke visible, or a smell of burning oil? Does it leak out, leaving oil spots where you park, and a film of oil on the lower engine and running gear? You have to determine where your oil is going when it gets low. Do you check it when fuelling up?

    The website posted by missemucho is a good reference for this problem, and gives a lot of information, including what may be necessary in the rebuild. Before committing to anything, get a written estimate, which should include something to the effect that nothing will be done beyond what is specified in the estimate, without your approval. You should also be able to view any parts replaced during the rebuild.

    Good luck.
     
  8. 100straight

    100straight Member

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    Where do you live? I know some reputable shops in the midwest that won't gouge you for an inspecion or a rebuild.
     
  9. burtona

    burtona Member

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    You may want to check your oil lever each time you fill up with gas and add oil as needed. Then you will have a better idea what your oil usage is.
     
  10. gcessna

    gcessna Member

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    My math according to your numbers equals oil changes every 8,000 miles, and then what brand/type do you use. Any oil derived from a Pennsylvania crude will have alot of deposit because of the large amount of parafine in it. Oil is cheap compared to an engine rebuild, change every 2,000/3,000 miles.

    Gary Cessna
     
  11. W.P.T.

    W.P.T. TS Member

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    I change the oil every 2500 miles weather it needs it or not, cheap insurance ... WPT ... (YAC) ...
     
  12. HSLDS

    HSLDS Well-Known Member

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    If the car is a 2007, and presuming 15K miles per year - total near 90,000 miles.

    Based on the link posted by missemucho it sounds like it should still be under warranty - NO?

    I would call that 888 number and be all over Toyota on this one.
     
  13. Tron

    Tron Supporting Vendor Supporting Vendor

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    You need to change that oil way more often then you do, especially if you use your vehicle on a lot of short trips and don't allow it to fully warm up.

    Jb
     
  14. likes-to-shoot

    likes-to-shoot Well-Known Member

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    Back in the day I used Pennzoil and had a sludge built up. But from what I understand they are a better quality oil nowadays.

    I change my oil every 3500 mi using synthetic oil and rotate tires every other oil change. Like WPT says, "its cheap insurance".
     
  15. halfmile

    halfmile Well-Known Member

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    Run a batch of flushing oil through it. Castrol for one has it. You put it in the crankcase and run the engine for a specified time, (warmed up of course) to allow the flushing oil to circulate.

    Drain it and it will be black and much of the sludge will be in suspension.

    It sounds like you may have issues other than the sludge, but this is a beginning that won't break you.

    We revived old engines by using kerosine that way in an old engine that was smoking and using oil.

    Do not rev the engine while using kerosine to desludge. Some guys used a Kerosine/atf mix but I don't know about that one.

    There is a lot of very good information at the link I have posted.

    Now the kicker: Car makers now hav eincreased the duration of oil change intervals to what I think is an alarming degree. Is it possible they want you to shorten the life of your vehicle?

    I bought a corolla for wifey, and they are saying to change every 5 thousand miles. I am not comfortable with that. I will use 4K intervals.

    HM
     
  16. DelarockX

    DelarockX TS Member

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    I posted this here because it's an off topic forum. If this is a problem, then I'll remove my post. Didn't mean to bother anyone.

    If I didn't bother you, and since most of you except for this one guy posted very helpful information, I thank you for your advice.

    To answer your questions- There is nothing wrong with the way the car is driving. No sounds, smoke, or smell. This is all based of a check engine light and a guy peering into my engine bay. I'm not buying it. I'm going to do a flush and see how it goes.

    Thanks again everyone, I'll let you know how I make out. Also, the dealership wanted to charge me $8500 for a rebuilt motor. To rebuild my motor was more expensive. Like I said... Not buying it.
     
  17. Chango2

    Chango2 Active Member

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    These posts seem very useful; "firearm people" are often "outdoor people" that are more savvy, on average, the the general population and are often more independent and hands on. Lighten up, this was a good and helpful post IMO.
     
  18. HSLDS

    HSLDS Well-Known Member

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    Tron,

    Question for you...

    Many car manufacturers now have fairly long change intervals... Even pushing towards 10K miles (I know many require synthetic oil for this).

    I assume you have knowledge that says for a Toyota it should be more often than every 4 ~ 6K.

    I run a 2004 5.4 Triton on full synthetic - typically change the oil/filter every 4 months - regardless of mileage. Might be as little as 3K or as much as 6K.

    Am I doing something wrong??

    THANKS, and happy New Year to you and Kitty,

    David D
     
  19. gbutler

    gbutler TS Member

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    First off a check engine light does not tell you anything about the mechanical condition of your engine. With possibly the exception of, knock sensor, low oil level, oil temp, rich or lean condition, ect. The only thing the computer can see is what the sensors tell it. There is no sensor to detect oil sludge. Did they happen to give you the code number? If so that would be helpful. If the check engine light comes back on makesure whoever scans it gives you the number.

    Deeming an engine DOA requires alot more than scanning it and looking under the hood.
    Keep an eye on your oil level and see what happens. If you can find the right viscosity Diesel oil will help clean an engine as well. There is higher detergent content in diesel engine oil.
     
  20. Tron

    Tron Supporting Vendor Supporting Vendor

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    HSLDS, my experiences with the modular engines (4.6, 5.4 and V-10) is that they don't take the abuse as far as dirty oil is concerned as the old push rod engines did. They last a lot longer, because of the much tighter tolerances, better engineering and better building materials, but they don't take to any neglect.

    Oil life really depends on driving conditions. If you are just putzing around on short trips all the time, then stick to 3k intervals. If you're on the highway a lot, then you can get the longer oil life without issue.

    Jb
     
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