1. Attention: We have put together a thread with tips and a tutorial video to help with using the new software. Please take a moment to check out the thread here: Trapshooters.com Tutorial & Help Video.
    Dismiss Notice

1100 Project Gun

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by timb99, Jun 5, 2010.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. timb99

    timb99 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    7,332
    Location:
    Shawnee, Kansas, USA
    Like many before me have done, I'm putting together a "project 1100." Just for $hits & grins, and maybe as a gun to let folks borrow or let our AIM kids try. Or I may just sell it. Don't know yet.

    So far, I have picked up a circa 1969 Remington 1100 Magnum 30" fixed full choke gun (flat field rib.)

    I got a used, old style Jack West stock with a nice padded comb, a Morgan style adjustable butt plate, and a Kick-Eez rocker pad.

    I got a new main spring, firing pin spring, and hammer spring off J&P Gun Springs.

    I took it to a local gunsmith and had him install the hammer spring and work the trigger to about a 3.5 lb pull (it had to be about 10 lb when I got it.) He did a nice job (http://www.gunsmithingonly.com)

    Took it out to the club today and although I don't have it dialed in, I could tell it's very tightly choked. On a few targets I centered from 27 yards, it broke them with authority. The ones I centered at 16 yards turned inside out.

    Although Brian in Oregon suggested I just pick up a target barrel (and he's probably right), I'm going to stick with the barrel I have for now, since this project is "on the cheap."

    I bought a 1-1/8" tall Keensight rib, and I plan to put it on the field barrel.

    Opinions on the best way to get the magnum barrel to cycle my weenie singles loads?

    It will cycle my handicap loads, which are essentially a 1200 fps 1-1/8 ounce load.

    But it won't quite cycle my one ounce 1150 fps singles loads. It's close. Most of the time it moves the bolt back but then closes again. Out of 25 targets, it'll fully lock open on maybe 2 or 3, and drop the hull at my feet.

    Drill a second hole? Or just open up the existing hole? I don't think it'll take much to get it to work.

    And Brian is right, this magnum action is really, really soft shooting.

    Things I still need:

    I need a black plastic forearm, since right now I have the old original forearm coupled with a black plastic Jack West stock. (Anybody have one they'd part with?)

    Also need a T&S shell catcher (anyone have one they'd be willing to part with?)

    When I get the Keensight rib installed, I'll need some taller posts for the old style Jack West stock. Any suggestions there?
     
  2. Jim101

    Jim101 Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    1,942
    Location:
    Knob Noster, Mo
    Tim, Drill a second hole. It will take more than you think to get the mag barrel to work RELIABLY with lighter loads.




    Jim
     
  3. rick979

    rick979 Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2009
    Messages:
    1,908
    Seems like a lot of work considering you can buy a decent 1100 trap that has the correct barrel and cycles well for $400-$500.
     
  4. OldGoat

    OldGoat Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2008
    Messages:
    1,569
    Location:
    Overland Park KS
    Hi Tim, looking forward to seeing your project gun - sounds neat...I also have one in the works. Another poster on this forum suggested getting a standard action sleeve - lighter than the magnum - from remington for about $40 which will enable the cycling you need...this way you don't have to drill an extra hole and ruin the barrel for magnum shells...which I think is a waste of the barrel. I missed out on a 28" vent full choke barrel for $50 by waiting too long. See you at the club. Best Regards, Ed
     
  5. SonoraMike

    SonoraMike TS Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2010
    Messages:
    127
    http://www.wisnersinc.com/additional_info/Remington58_1100.htm

    scroll down to the "Gunsmithing the 1100" section
     
  6. hmb

    hmb Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    9,436
    You can drill a second hole without ruining the barrel. Drill the second hole with a #31 drill and tap it for a 6-48 plug screw, that's the little screw they use to fill the holes on a rifle barrel where the scope bases go. When you shoot light loads take the screw out and when you use full loads put it in. HMB
     
  7. SonoraMike

    SonoraMike TS Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2010
    Messages:
    127
    creative
     
  8. timb99

    timb99 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    7,332
    Location:
    Shawnee, Kansas, USA
    Rick979

    For this project, its not the end product, but the road taken, that I am getting a kick out of.
     
  9. timb99

    timb99 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    7,332
    Location:
    Shawnee, Kansas, USA
    hmb

    Interesting solution. I like it.
     
  10. timb99

    timb99 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    7,332
    Location:
    Shawnee, Kansas, USA
    Ed

    How did you go about removing the bluing from that 1100 receiver?

    Tim
     
  11. timb99

    timb99 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    7,332
    Location:
    Shawnee, Kansas, USA
    Here's what it looks like right now.
    timb99_2008_030322.jpg

    timb99_2008_030323.jpg

    timb99_2008_030324.jpg
     
  12. OldGoat

    OldGoat Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2008
    Messages:
    1,569
    Location:
    Overland Park KS
    Hi Tim, took everything out of the receiver (trigger group, etc.) used Birchwood Casey Bluing and Rust Remover and 0000 steel wool, rubbing lightly until all bluing/blemishes removed. Had Mike Allee buff the receiver and it came out looking great. Mike charged ~$25 - 30. I think I still have some of the Remover left in the bottle...it should be enough to do your receiver. Lemme know. Regards, Ed
     
  13. timb99

    timb99 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    7,332
    Location:
    Shawnee, Kansas, USA
    Hey Ed. Thanks for the offer. Put it in your shooting bag and I'll get it from you next time I see you.

    Tim
     
  14. timb99

    timb99 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    7,332
    Location:
    Shawnee, Kansas, USA
    oleww

    Check your PM's
     
  15. powderburn

    powderburn Member

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2008
    Messages:
    486
    Location:
    Anderson, IN
    Hi!
    On your light loads, you CAN take the gas rings out and also the rubber seal ring, and manually pull the bolt open. That's what I've done with mine. I bought a lager tactical style bolt handle to replace the small original one with; that will give you more leverage. Once you get used to pulling the bolt open, it's no big deal. Also will help with eliminating unburnt powder flecks from blowing back in your face-which can happen with light lods sometimes. Just a thought.
    -powderburn
     
  16. timb99

    timb99 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    7,332
    Location:
    Shawnee, Kansas, USA
    powderburn

    I thought about that, but after I shot a couple of rounds having to manually open the bolt, I decided that was NOT what I wanted to do.
     
  17. SonoraMike

    SonoraMike TS Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2010
    Messages:
    127
    so you just remove the gas piston rings and o-ring, and not the action bar with action sleeve as well? any reason why you wouldn't want to remove those sliding pieces?
     
  18. timb99

    timb99 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    7,332
    Location:
    Shawnee, Kansas, USA
    The gun won't work. At all.

    Take a look at how the bolt is attached to the action bar assembly. The action bar assembly is what the bolt is attached to, and the action bar assembly is what guides the bolt within the receiver grooves. The bolt would be unable to "lock" into battery. Plus, it is what the "link" pushes against to drive the bolt into battery.

    Without the action bars, the bolt would just kind of flop around in the receiver.

    Plus, the weight and movement of the action sleeve/bars/bolt is part of what reduces the recoil (or damps or spreads out, whatever term you prefer) in a semi-auto.

    I suppose you "could" remove the action sleeve, but if you're going to do all that, you might as well get a break action gun, because any benefit you would get from recoil redistribution due to the gas action system is lost.
     
  19. SonoraMike

    SonoraMike TS Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2010
    Messages:
    127
    Yep, you're right, I didn't visualize the bar/bolt relationship
     
  20. BobC

    BobC TS Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    193
    Several years ago I stopped shooting trap and went to sporting clays but before I stopped I built two 1100 project guns. #1 the most souped up is an 1100 magnum receiver, 4 way adjustable comb, Gracoil recoil device, Hasting barrel and 3 chokes, with 1/2 inch high aftermarket rib, timney trigger, and new extended bolt closer. #2 new 1100 classic trap receiver, Hasting barrel with 2 chokes, and timney trigger and a morgan adjustable butt plate. Both guns are for sale. By the way the Hasting barrel for 1100 ( big bore and chokes) patterns better that any regular 1100 barrel I have had, bar none...
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.