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1100 problem 2

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by Olrusty, Nov 22, 2010.

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  1. Olrusty

    Olrusty TS Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
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    To Overbored, Tom, and the resr of you guys that were good enough to send me your help, Thanks. Sorry it took me so long to get back to you. I tore the gun down today. Looked for signs of wear on the carrier dog and the slot on bottom of carrier.NOT MUCH MUCH NOTICEABLE WEAR ON EITHER ONe.The front edge of the carrier slot is a little rounded, but not much. The pin is right where it should be. I compared this trigger group with the one I took out and I don't see much difference. I did notice the dog spring seems a little weaker than the one in the original group.I haven't yet checked the action spring or tube as one of you suggested, but I WILL. Also haven't tried the double O ring. Have to go out to the club to try this. Don't quite see how to bend the carrier, overboard. And did I mention anywhere in this that the trigger is a release which works very well. Well, except for the obious prob.Thanks again for your help, I'll keep tinkering with it.Olrusty Jack M
     
  2. mrskeet410

    mrskeet410 TS Member

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    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    3,064
    Does the bolt lock back when you pull it back by hand? Knowing that will tell you where to look for the problem.
     
  3. Olrusty

    Olrusty TS Member

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    Yes it does--and sometimes when the gun is fired Jack M
     
  4. GunDr

    GunDr Well-Known Member

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    2,913
    When the bolt doesn't stay back, it generally is one of two problems...

    A broken carrier latch or carrier latch pivot pin, will allow the bolt to push it to the side and not lock the carrier in the down position

    A bent carrier will not allow the little tab to engage with the carrier latch.

    Doug
     
  5. trw

    trw Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    153
    My experience says that the problem is one of two things:

    1) either the trigger has been pulled when it was removed from the action allowing the hammer to impact & bend the small tab on the latch altering it's angle/position which it NOT fixable, it will require replacement. You can release the hammer by hand carefully lowering it to see the tab I am speaking of. The tab's angle is critical for correct cycling.

    2) early 1100's had aluminim 'pistons' [the part that the 'tuning fork' goes into] in front of their recoil springs. Those aluminum 'pistons' are easily bent & when bent cause drag inside the recoil spring tube. Any aluminum 'piston' should be replaced w/a steel one, which eliminates the problem.

    On item 2, it is always a good idea to clean the recoil spring tube & lubricate it w/something like a patch soaked w/Breakfree CLP. Also measure the recoil spring placed flat on a table. New ones measure about 15 & 1/4" long. If it is anywhere close to an inch shorter, replace it w/a new one. Don't try & stretch the old one, it won't last any time at all.

    Hope something of value here for you.

    kind regards, tw
     
  6. Joe Potosky

    Joe Potosky Well-Known Member

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    Jan 29, 1998
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    5,490
    RE: aluminim 'pistons'

    I just found such a part when I tore down an 1100 last week to replace the spring in the stock. It had been dinged pretty good. I replaced it...

    Did use Breakfree.

    The gun has had on and off problems in the past. May have been the issue.
     
  7. Olrusty

    Olrusty TS Member

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    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
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    OK guys. Thanks for the additional suggestions. I'll try all til I find the prob. Jack M
     
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