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Scratch repair on browning wood

22K views 10 replies 11 participants last post by  Taxidermy 
#1 ·
I've got a scratch that's not too deep on a browning shotgun. Anyone know a good way to refinish and make it look new? Jim
 
#2 ·
I would make two suggestions. One is refinish the stock (have to do the butt stock and forend). Second is get a small can of a good penetrating stain, like MinWax, color the scratch and live with the imperfection. The other things I have done to repair only the scratch have either not worked well or made the imperfection worse.

Pat Ireland
 
#4 ·
I know Browning lovers will hate me, but the Browning wood is a bitch to refinish. The buttstock and forend almost never match. The buttstock is usually some hardwood that has to be hidden with a painted stain and then sprayed over with poly. That is why the "shiny" factory finish. Only the flat, "continental" looking stocks are really walnut.
 
#6 ·
My friend the "Technoid" informed me that Brownings were finished with Tru-Oil and based on his info I repaired a crack in a forearm with Epoxy an then repaired the finish with many coats of Tru-oil and it blended so well that my friend, who owned the gun, could not find the repair. I recommend Tru-Oil. Jim Pettengill
 
#7 ·
I do not recommend superglue or any cyanoacrylate because it's impossible to remove from any part of the finish it wasn't intended. You would have to use acetone, and that's pretty nasty stuff that will mess up the stock even more.
Epoxy is easier to completely remove before it dries.
Of course, the best advice is to just leave it alone, and after a while you'll forget about it.
 
#9 ·
Recently I repaired a small scratch in a very glossy stock as follows: (1)Thoroughly clean the area. (2)Run strips of PAINTERS TAPE (3M blue) adjacent and parallel to the scratch. Be sure to run the tape as close to the scratch as you can but not onto the scratch itself. (3)VERY LIGHTLY sand the exposed scratch with 2000 grit W/D paper. (4)Remove dust. (5)Mask of the surrounding areas of stock. (6)Using MinWax Helmsman Spar Urethane Clear Gloss (11.5oz spray can available from W Mart for about $8) spray several light coats onto the exposed scratch. Continue adding coats until scratch is filled to a level equal to the tape surface. Pay attention to the recoat instructions on the can. (7)Let dry for several days. (8)Remove tape pulling in a direction away from scratch. (9)Dry sand elevated finish (area that was between tape lines) with 2000/2500 grit W/D paper. Care, and perhaps a magnifying glass, must be used to sand only the added finish level with the original finish. Very light contact with the original finish probably can not be avoided but must be kept to a minimum. (10)Once level, rub a small amount of toothpast into a small area of a soft cotton dry cloth and buff the area lightly. Magically the scratch is gone.

I have used this procedure and even knowing where the scratch was makes it near impossible to spot the repair. If you have a severe scratch that has gone thruogh a stained finish, color must be matched prior to applying clear coat(s).

Hope this helps, It was almost as hard writing this procedure as actually doing it. Marc
 
#10 ·
Brownings are finished with Tru-oil? BS. Tru-oil is easy to remove. A Browning finish is not. They use an expoxy type finish. They are masters at making cheap walnut look good. So, before you start to repair it, remember it will never look better than it does now.
 
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