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MEC Universal Charge Bar

3K views 16 replies 15 participants last post by  kene 
#1 ·
Would like to hear opinions on the Universal charge bar for MEC reloaders.
 
#2 ·
Had one when i was loading on my MEC. I sold it. You'll either love it or hate it. Once you learn how to properly adjust it, you can dial in exactly how many grains of powder you want as well as your shot drops. They can also be a pain in the rear with certain powders. My opinion is stick with the bushing bars because there is really no need to be that precise with your powder.
 
#4 ·
Wouldn't use a MEC without one. Just bought a 20 ga hydraulic and first mod was universal charge bar.

I use the "scales" on the stickers to rough things in but you need to adjust and weigh a bit to get it really dialed in. On average, it takes me 3 or 4 "test" shells to get things tightly dialed in. Run the loader through one cycle, weigh either the shot or powder or both...if no good, recycle to the bottle and tweak the bar and repeat, or put back in the shell and press on.

Dan
 
#6 ·
As long as you realize there is slack in the threads when switching directions on the knobs you'll get along fine. Having said that, I wouldn't use one on a MEC that wasn't a progressive. Even though there's a set screw to lock the knobs in place, you'll have better luck if the loader is moving the bar. Good luck.

P.S. If you don't own a scale, get one to weigh your charges. Get one with enough capacity to weigh even loaded rounds.
 
#7 ·
I have an adjustable bar and used it for many years. However, I now have multiple standard bars and bushings. I adjust using a rat tail file and fingernail polish. Once loading, I know that the bar is stable and not moving.

Always scale your powder.

Ed Ward
 
#9 ·
I have two MECs and two adjustable bars for two loads used at most all my shooting. I couldn't go back to the MEC bars and bushings just because I'm too anal to rely on them. I weigh loads often and do whatever tweaking is required for the day. The secret to the adjustables is to start low and work your weights up slowly until you reach your target. If you go up and down, back and forth, you'll never find what you want unless a miracle occurs. I've heard others who start high and drop slowly down but that makes little sense to me - safety suggests start low and adjust up - my motto. Last thought is; if you don't suffer from fatal anal perfection, stick with the bushings and realize "close enough" is just that!.......breakemall
 
#10 ·
The Universal Charge Bar for Mec is the “GREATEST” thing that one can do for a Mec.

I have two adjustable charge bars. One set up for one ounce the other for one and one-eight ounce.

I’ve been using the Universal Charge Bar since July of 02 and would not be without them!

I have a Mec Grabber. The adjustable charge bars works GREAT on this loader. The Grabber and the 9000 are basically the same loader. The 9000 is an upgrade that has auto indexing and shell eject.

The adjustable charge bars can be contrary to work with. I found that to tweak or fine-tune the powder drops, turn the knob BACK, than in small increments turn it forward until you obtain what your want. You really must have an electronic scale to set up the adjustable charge bar.

My powder drops stay within +/- .2 grains. It is important to "BUMP" the handle of the loader on the down stroke the same every time. Yes, I understand that it is not humanly possible to get each pull the same. However, make every effort to get the "BUMP" on the pull down the same, your powder drops will be more constant.

Frank
 
#11 ·
I have both on different loaders and like them both for different reasons. If I'm changing the type of powder and shot charge a lot(for the grandkids)I like the adjustable bar.

If I'm shooting the loads I always use I like the bar and bushings. I have a trap door in the top of the chrome bracket to change bushings. I shoot all 1-1/8 loads and change the amount of Green Dot powder.

Ajax
 
#16 ·
I have an old one, slightlyt used and will let it go for $25.

I used it for a very short while and tightened the bottle to tight ( my fault) and it did not index all the way across the machine. I ended up cutting 1500 20ga AA's because of inconsistant powder drops. When I discivered the problem, I loosened the bottle to insure the slide motion and then it dribbled powder out the top. And yes, I did have runner gromits and even the brass ring with the gromit. It's been in the reloading room in a box for about 25 years. It can be yours!
 
#17 ·
My 2 cents -- as many said above it depends on how "anal" you are in making things precise. I am not when it comes to shotgun shells [totally different story when a m reloading for varmits and benchrest tho..] so I am happy with the bar / bushing and a GOOD electronic scale to calibrate the bushing and bar drops so I know pretty close what is actually happening. I use the RCBS 1500 since it can weigh full shells accurately and rapidly find those that may have had a bad powder drop [typical weight for a AA with 17.3gr clays and 1oz is around 620gr -- if I find one with a dished crimp and weighs around 600 gr I know the powder didn't drop for some reason...]
 
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