This machined aluminum base for the P/W EZ-fill replaces the molded plastic base that P/W supplies with the EZ-Fill Hopper. It now includes the bushing access holes. You will need to use the plugs and thumbscrews from your plastic base. My machined aluminum base will reduce the leakage caused by the warping/flexing of the molded plastic base.

The cost is $90.00 plus $8.75 shipping.

Email or Private Message if interested.

If you sent me an email earlier I will email you with payment information and my mailing address.

Jim Skeel

Jim: Nice job!

Whiz

Excellent machine work.

Nice work, and considering PW sold the original plastic unit for $79.95 the $90.00 price tag is not all that bad. I believe PW has now lowered the price considerably. Do people actual have trouble with the plastic unit?

Dale,

It is almost impossible to load .410's with H110 or W296 with the original plastic base. I spent a lot of time testing various seals and installation geometry. The square cross section seal I use works very well. It is the same size as the one in the P/W EZ-Fill. I suspect it is the same seal that P/W uses. I supply two spare seals with each base.

The problem with the P/W plastic base is distortion. The pressure from the two nylon set screws that are over the rack can be the source of the distortion. The compression on the powder seal is very small (a couple of thousands of an inch). It does not take much distortion to reduce the compression to less than zero. My aluminum base eliminates all the distortion.

Jim Skeel

There is another problem with the bakelite plastic base. Some powders ( like longshot and E3) stick to it and cause a reaction resulting in a mess. The tube will get clogged with powder

Jim is "on target" with this base, eliminates the problem described by cubancigar2000. I have loaded a bunch with one of Jim's bases on my 2000 and it's well worth the investment.

Jim M

Concerning "The pressure from the two nylon set screws that are over the rack can be the source of the distortion." I think there should be no pressure applied by those screws at all. Only snugged enough to remove any slop above the rack gear.

JerryP, you are right. The nylon screws need only to be just in contact with the rack. They are there to resist the upward force caused by the friction as the slot in the lever contacts the pin in the side of the rack. If you keep some STOS lube on the sides of the slot in the operating lever it will reduce the friction and lessen the upward force on the rack.

Jim Skeel

TTT