Looking to buy a chronograph to check and compare skeet shells that I reload for my 2 sons skeet shooting. I reload on th different machines 12 and 20 on a Dillion SL900 and 28 and 410 on a spolar. I want to compare the speeds of all 4 shell sizes and get them to run about the same. Would like suggestions on which one is best for shot gun shell testing and why you feel its the best. Thanks John.

Its not "the best" - but I bought the F1 chrono from Walmart online (free shipping to the store) .. for like $79 if I remember correctly. Seems to work fine. The most consistent results I have gotten with it ... seems to be on cloudy days without the use of the "sunscreen shades".

Pro Chrono

Pro Chrono, chrony, nice and cheap, you don't need printer options and complicated programs for shotshell work.

I have a Prochrono now, had a Chrony, both very adequate.

So buy whatever you get the best deal on.

HM

Oehler 35 with the printer.

Oehler --- I have used these for years --- Rifle, pistol, air-rifle, bows and shotguns..........

I have two ProChronos and for $99, I don't think you need anything more.

A few years ago, I thought I did and bought a Competitive Edge Dynamics M2 for $200 plus $37 for the carrying case. I was impressed initially with the design and bench-mounted remote display and controls with a large display screen but I discovered it would only work consistently under absolutely perfect lighting conditions. The sun had to be directly overhead; if it was at any angle to the photocells, it would display all kinds of goofy readings.

Several calls to their plant in northeastern Pennsylvania had me speaking with their engineer, who told me that their photocells are of a higher quality than cheaper chronographs and therefore are more light-sensitive. I finally was using it and a ProChrono back-to-back so I would get a reading when the M2 didn't like the light. That got old so I returned the M2.

I also tried a $450 Pact. It never worked at all and a call right from the range, which their instructions recommend, was an exercise in frustration. In a nutshell, I was told it has to be positioned so its photocells were directly under the sun. When I told them for that to happen, I would have to tilt the unit 45 degrees and turn it sideways across the range. "You have to do what you have to do," I was told. I did - I returned it, too.

I will concede that some of the problem with those two units had to do with our rifle range, which faces west. The sun is either behind the firing line in the morning or to the left the rest of the day (shooting later in the day is out, as the sun is in your face). But the $99 chronographs don't seem to mind.

Sometimes simpler and less costly really is better.

Ed

Oehler 35 with the printer

just the best... Grubby

I've had good luck with my PACT. I've used it both as a chrono and a timer for IPSC/USPSA matches and practice. Oehlers have the #1 reputation for chronos but the PACTs provide multiple functions. I guess our range is PACT friendly.

The OP wants one for shotshells.

Bells, whistles, printers, remotes, not necessary here in my opinion.

HM

Ed, I don't understand Pact telling you to position the photocells directly under the Sun. I have had a Pact for at least 20 years and that doesn't work. That is why they come with skyscreens. I don't use those, always just use it in the shade, away from direct sunlight. I think it works ok but have never compared it side by side to anything else. I would think none would work well in direct sunlight. If I was forced to use it in an open area, I would create some shade.

Look for a used Ohler 33. I've had one for over 20 years and it still works great. If you want new Ohler 35.

Andy

John, the Pro Chrono and the Chrony units are all just fine for your requirements. They can be had for under $100.

I had to send my first Pro Chrono back because it read 1000fps to high. The replacement seems to read about 20fps higher than I think it should. However, I calibrate using factory shells I want to duplicate, so whether is reads 1180fps or 1210fps doesn't matter to me.

I had problems getting consistent readings when I first started. Bob Dodd, a poster on these threads, gave me a bunch of pointers and everything worked well after that. Here are some of the highlights:

1: make sure you are shooting through the middle of the screens and at the same height above the chrono EVERY time.

2: make sure your shot is directly over the center of both reading windows. If you angle the readings will vary.

3: make absolutely sure that NO direct sunlight hits the reading ports. This will require you to shade the unit, or shoot in the shade. However, the reading ports must still have an unobstructed view of the sky.

4: use the diffusers when you have clear blue skies. You'll get better results.

Johnny, I agree. In fact, I put a canopy up over the CED M2 and it worked a lot better. But Pact made me suspicious of them when they said I should turn it sideways across the range and tilt it 45 degrees. When I pointed out the obvious problem with that suggestion, their "You have to do what you have to do" remark lost me for good.

Ed