
| Posted By | Posted Date/Time |
| glenn mcleod | 29-Jul-10 - 10:48 PM ET |
| Chango2 | 30-Jul-10 - 12:18 AM ET |
| boba7449 | 30-Jul-10 - 06:41 AM ET |
| Unknown1 | 30-Jul-10 - 07:54 AM ET |
| glenn mcleod | 30-Jul-10 - 09:51 AM ET |
| Bruce Specht | 30-Jul-10 - 11:01 AM ET |
| Dougbbbb | 30-Jul-10 - 11:21 AM ET |
| Quack Shot | 30-Jul-10 - 12:28 PM ET |
| birdtracker | 30-Jul-10 - 07:04 PM ET |
| glenn mcleod | 31-Jul-10 - 12:28 AM ET |
| Quack Shot | 31-Jul-10 - 02:47 AM ET |
| birdtracker | 31-Jul-10 - 12:02 PM ET |
| birdtracker | 31-Jul-10 - 12:04 PM ET |
| Quack Shot | 31-Jul-10 - 06:40 PM ET |
| BucPride29 | 31-Jul-10 - 07:33 PM ET |
| birdtracker | 31-Jul-10 - 09:59 PM ET |
| Remstar311 | 31-Jul-10 - 10:32 PM ET |
| birdtracker | 02-Aug-10 - 08:53 PM ET |
| oleolliedawg | 02-Aug-10 - 09:09 PM ET |
| glenn mcleod | 02-Aug-10 - 09:14 PM ET |
| glenn mcleod | 04-Aug-10 - 10:52 PM ET |
| Quack Shot | 05-Aug-10 - 08:25 PM ET |
| Brian in Oregon | 05-Aug-10 - 09:59 PM ET |
| bluedevil | 06-Aug-10 - 08:47 AM ET |
Need a mechanics advice. My daughters 2002 Dodge Caravan wants to stall, she took it to the local Dodge Dealer and after $300+ it still wants to stall. It will always start again but very annoying at the stop lights. Any ideas? Glenn
Dirty injector(s), or bad fuel pump, or intake manifold leak, or computer or sensor problem, or plugged converter which, a plugged converter, highly unlikely. Also, highly unlikely, damaged exhaust system or bad O2 sensor. A dealer "should" have got it right the first time. What's up with that?
WHAT DID THE DEALER ACTUALLY DO ? GOOD POSSIBILITY THAT THROTTLE BODY IS DIRTY AND NEEDS TO BE CLEANED OR IDLE SPEED MOTOR IS BAD.
I owned a then-new 2001 for 2 years years. It was the biggest collection of engineering and assembly incompetence ever collected in one place. I wish you good luck with your Caravan.
MK
Thanks for the ideas
As stated in by another by Chango 2, it sounds like a fuel problem, but start with cheap repairs. Air filter could be clogged look there then have some one check fuel pressuer, if it's low, replace the fuel filter and recheck pressuers. Clean the injectors.
Had a 2005 with the same problem. Did a throttle chamber cleaning and a Injection flush/cleaning, cost 155.95 at the dealership.
good luck Doug
P.s. Cured the problem
Three things come to mind. EGR, Idle Control, or Throttle Body cleaning. The Idle control might be electrical or mechanical in nature. Same issues for EGR. The Throttle body is usually deposits that require a good cleaning. Can't do much remotely, since I don't play with Caravans much, but most modern gasoline powered vehicles share these common issues.
Glenn: there is one thing you could try that won't cost you any money. Its called "adaptive numerator". Its the engine computers way of counting holes in the flywheel windows so it knows what cylinder to fire. If it has had a dead battery lately, it could of lost adaptive numerator. So the next thing any person would think is, if I lost adaptive numerator, how does one find it again. Well Glenn heres what you do. Drive somewhere that is isolated. Pull the shifter handle down into 1st gear. Accelerate to approx 4,000 rpms and let off the accelerator allowing the van to coast for 7 seconds without braking. You have to do this 3 times.Hope this helps. Birdtracker
Never heard of this, are you on the level? glenn
glenn
Yes, Birdtracker is absolutely on the level.
On some Chrysler vehicles, the adaptive numerator has to be learned by the PCM in order for the Misfire Monitors to be allowed to run. It's part of the OBDII emissions system strategies. The Processor needs to calibrate to "normal", so it knows what "abnormal" crankshaft speed (Acceleration) variations are. Usually, the "Check Engine" light could illuminate and throw a code like P1398 if the strategies were not resolved. The MIL light may also NOT illuminate, but the code may still be set.
I just thought that you did not mention anything like "rough running" or "misfire", and did not mention a MIL illumination. If the MIL were illuminated, you should interrogate the PCM for stored codes and continue diagnosis by the code. Otherwise, you would need to look for something that would cause a stall. I mentioned three areas to point to. There is a link above, where some people have had a LOT of similar issues and have thrown parts at their vehicles. Maybe some of the symptoms and cures might help you out.
Here is a cut and paste from some documentation regarding the OBDII Monitors. It gives a non-detailed explanation, but it's at least something to go on.
Here is some interesting reading regarding OBDII Readiness monitoring:
Only the monitors, which are not YES in the CARB Readiness Status, need to be completed. Specific criteria need to be met for each monitor. The most efficient order to run the monitors has been outlined below, including suggestions to aid the process.
Evaporative Emission System Leak Detection with Purge Monitor This monitor requires a cool down cycle, usually an overnight soak for at least 8 hours without the engine running. The ambient temperature must decrease overnight - parking the vehicle outside is advised. To run this test the fuel level must be between 15-85% full. Criteria for EVAP monitor:
Engine off time greater than one hour . Fuel Level between 15% and 85%. Start Up ECT and IAT within 10°C (18°F). Vehicle started and run until Purge Monitor reports a result. NOTE: If the vehicle does not report a result and the conditions where correct. It may take up to two weeks to fail the small leak monitor. DO NOT use this test to attempt to determine a fault. Use the appropriate service information procedure for finding a small leak. If there are no faults and the conditions are correct this test will run and report a pass. Note the Small leak test can find leaks less than 10 thousands of an inch. If a small leak is present it takes approximately one week of normal driving to report a failure.
Catalyst / O2 Monitor The Catalyst and O2 Monitor information are acquired and processed at the same time. Most vehicles will need to be driven at highway speed (less than 50 mph) (73km/h) for a few minutes. Some vehicles run the monitor at idle in drive. If the vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission, using 4th gear may assist in meeting the monitor running criteria.
Engine RPM between 1200 to 3000. Engine temperature greater than 70°C (158°F) Engine run time greater than 92 seconds MAP between 10 - 20 kPa (7.5 - 15 Hg) Vehicle speed between 20 - 70 mph (29–103 km/h)
EGR Monitor After the vehicle has reached the below conditions and during a throttle decel the EGR monitor will run.
Engine RPM between 1375 - 2500 Engine temperature greater than 70°C (158°F) Engine run time greater than 125 seconds Vehicle speed between 25 - 70 mph (37–103 km/h)
O2 Sensor Heater Monitor This monitor is now continuously running once the heaters are energized. Pass information will be processed at power down.
Mis-Fire Monitor The Misfire Monitor is a continuous two-trip monitor. The monitor uses two different tests/counters:
NOTE: The Adaptive Numerator must be learned before the PCM will run the Mis-Fire Monitor. The PCM updates the Adaptive Numerator at every key-ON, and is relearned after battery disconnect. The Misfire Monitor will not run until the Adaptive Numerator has updated since the last battery disconnect. If the Adaptive Numerator is equal to the default value then the PCM knows that the Adaptive Numerator has not been learned and does not permit the Misfire Monitor to run. If the Adaptive Numerator exceeds a calibrated percentage, the PCM sets a DTC for CKP NOT LEARNED and illuminates the MIL.
200 Revolution Counter - Looks for misfire that can cause immediate catalyst damage.
1000 Revolution Counter - Looks for misfire that can cause emissions to increase 1.5 times the Federal Test Procedure (FTP) standards. This test must also identify misfire percentages that might cause a “durability demonstration vehicle” to fail an Inspection and Maintenance Program tailpipe emissions test.
its on the level. Sorry but this is 2010. Have you heard of diesel exhaust fluid yet? Birdtracker
adaptive numerator will not have a check engine light or fault code. You can P.M me if neccessary. Birdtracker
Diesel Exhaust Fluid for Selective Catalytic Reduction (SCR) Technology? Yes I've heard of it. Cummins had distributed some advance information some years back.
AND, there very well can be a DTC P1398 set in a Chrysler or Jeep PCM. It may or may not illuminate the MIL as I stated before. The ones I have seen frequently were caused by erroneous PCM programming. An updated ROM calibration was required to resolve some of them. It IS related to the Adaptive Numerator and Misfire Monitor. It would likely be a "Manufacturer Designated" DTC, since the format is usually P1xxx.
The line in my last post that references the process is as follows: " If the Adaptive Numerator exceeds a calibrated percentage, the PCM sets a DTC for CKP NOT LEARNED and illuminates the MIL."
But, I don't claim to be a Chrysler expert, I just stayed in a Holiday Inn Express a few times.
Mass Air Flow sensor.
Bet you 2 to 1 its this.
Buc: : you owe everyone here. Not a G.M product. Has an pressure sensor but not air flow. I am saddled with a G.M product that has a bad Mass Air Flow sensor. $200 aftermarket or $400 factory. Someday will make it to the salvage yard and try and find a good one. Birdtracker
It could be the coil but it should only start acting up after the engine is good and warm.
Please don't leave us hanging! Birdtracker
You must have bought my old one I traded in. Had the same problem and sent it to Chrysler mechanic training school. It came back the same way and spent plenty of time on a tow truck. Thank goodness it's gone!!
I'll let you know if they get it fixed what it was. I guess the RPM's will also vary when they stop at a stop light? Also, if you move your foot quickly from the brake to the footfeed you can keep it going if it is acting up. Glenn
They took it back to the dealer and told them not to fix anything by quess, if they find a problem then fix it. They called after two days and said to come and pick it up as they can't find anything wrong. Could it be the computer? Something should show on the scan, shouldn't it? glenn
Did they charge you for the time the technician spent? Most people aren't willing to pay for diagnostic time. Most technicians are not willing to work for free either. If they don't replace something or perform a billable procedure, they don't usually get paid. What you need is a tech that has seen the problem before, or one that would go the extra mile to check with the manufacturer's support to see if someone else has.
Imagine the technician that drove a vehicle for hours, trying to get it to act up. Imagine his surprise when he figured out it was the wrong bulbs in the tail/stoplights that the owner had installed, that caused the vehicle to stall intermittently. The dealer charged the customer for new light bulbs and didn't pay the technician for his time, except to change the bulbs. That technician is now working in the Computer/IT field.
It can take many hours to experience and capture the malfunction. It could also be quite a challenge to know what the captured data means. You need to be sure that a technician with the skills and experience is the one looking at the vehicle. Unfortunately, that's not always the one that get's the vehicle for repair. It's the luck of the draw. If there is no code set and the MIL does not illuminate, there is little for the tech to go on with the electronics. Often, the most "complex" problems turn out to be something very basic that was overlooked or taken for granted.
"It was the biggest collection of engineering and assembly incompetence ever collected in one place.
Absolutely right on. I had one for a company vehicle. Worst piece of crap I've ever owned. Four transmissions in 80,000 miles. The first one went out at 750 miles. Constantly in the shop for other problems. I was so glad when that turd got turned back in.
My advice is fix it, then unload it, before it gets worse.
2003 Caravan, bought new, now has 119,500 trouble free miles. Oil etc when scheduled. Hauls my golf clubs, trap guns, wife' handguns and mine, sleep in it overnight when fishing the river, hauls grandkids and it still looks great. Just another experience, I was on the road for 30 years and Chevy's were junk in my opinion, VW's the toughest, Ford the most comfortable(love my 7.3 diesel). different strokes for different folks is all.
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